Question Swapping out the front brake line from another Honda motorcycle with ABS?

[16DCT]

I have successfully managed to install a 3.5" Rox handlebar riser on my 2016 Honda NC700XD ABS. The only problem is that the brake line is a little tight even after rerouting it to the shortest path from the master cylinder down to the ABS module which rests above the radiator. I was thinking about buying a longer brake hose from another Honda motorcycle with ABS. Maybe one from an Africa Twin or perhaps the CTX700. The ABS module connection makes it a little tricky to know whether it'll work or not until I have the part in hand though.

Is there any reason this wouldn't work? Any alternatives?

 

[670cc]

I have successfully managed to install a 3.5" Rox handlebar riser on my 2016 Honda NC700XD ABS. The only problem is that the brake line is a little tight even after rerouting it to the shortest path from the master cylinder down to the ABS module which rests above the radiator. I was thinking about buying a longer brake hose from another Honda motorcycle with ABS. Maybe one from an Africa Twin or perhaps the CTX700. The ABS module connection makes it a little tricky to know whether it'll work or not until I have the part in hand though.

Is there any reason this wouldn't work? Any alternatives?

A brake hose from another motorcycle model may work, but another option is you can order brake hoses custom made in any length and with any fitting style. I don’t have ABS, but my NC’s front brake hose was custom made to work with my 3.2 inch handlebar risers. It’s not a Honda part.

I got mine made about 7 years ago. I don’t remember the name of the hose manufacturer, but there are multiple sources out there.

 

[Oldbear]

I believe any line will work. If you’re changing, suggest you get a braided steel in the length you need. I’ve done it in the past on various machines with very good results. Seems to increase brake “feel” as the lines remain constant diameter without the bit of “expansion” that rubber lines have.

 

[16DCT]

I believe any line will work. If you’re changing, suggest you get a braided steel in the length you need. I’ve done it in the past on various machines with very good results. Seems to increase brake “feel” as the lines remain constant diameter without the bit of “expansion” that rubber lines have.

Do they sell pre-made steel braided lines that already have the ABS module on one end? The OEM ABS brake line has a banjo bolt at the master cylinder end and then some sort of ABS "block" on the other end. Reference part #5 and the part that's labeled F-5-20 on this link: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/honda/...e-master-cylinder-2-551458?submodel=nc700xdac

On a side note, do you know what F-5-20 means or what it's referencing in the parts diagram?

 

[16DCT]

A brake hose from another motorcycle model may work, but another option is you can order brake hoses custom made in any length and with any fitting style. I don’t have ABS, but my NC’s front brake hose was custom made to work with my 3.2 inch handlebar risers. It’s not a Honda part.

I got mine made about 7 years ago. I don’t remember the name of the hose manufacturer, but there are multiple sources out there.

The problem is that OEM ABS brake line has a banjo bolt at the master cylinder end and then some sort of ABS "block" on the other end. Reference part #5 and the part that's labeled F-5-20 on this link: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/honda/...e-master-cylinder-2-551458?submodel=nc700xdac. The company that I emailed didn't seem to know what I was talking about and said they only work on brake lines that have a banjo bolt connection on both ends. Is that "block" piece exclusive to Hondas?

 

[Lee Dodge]

That has been my problem in trying to source extended lines for my bike. I am thinking eventually the companies are going to have to start replicating those fittings or lose market share as more and more bikes come with ABS as standard. I have looked for lines for ABS bikes but haven't found any yet.

 

[670cc]

Do they sell pre-made steel braided lines that already have the ABS module on one end? The OEM ABS brake line has a banjo bolt at the master cylinder end and then some sort of ABS "block" on the other end. Reference part #5 and the part that's labeled F-5-20 on this link: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/honda/...e-master-cylinder-2-551458?submodel=nc700xdac

On a side note, do you know what F-5-20 means or what it's referencing in the parts diagram?

Sorry, for the misleading advice. I was not aware that the NC’s ABS brake hose had any special block on one end. I can’t be of any further assistance.

 

[Lee Dodge]

I just found a place in Germany that makes a line kit for an NC with ABS. Probrake in Germany. You can specify the line length you need. It includes all the lines in the system.

Steel braided brake line for Honda NC 700 XD (12-14) RC63

Steel braided brake hose with ABE ⏩ Special lengths with certification available ✔️ Accurate fit ✔️ fast & free delivery

www.probrake.de

 

[670cc]

I just found a place in Germany that makes a line kit for an NC with ABS. Probrake in Germany. You can specify the line length you need. It includes all the lines in the system.

Steel braided brake line for Honda NC 700 XD (12-14) RC63

Steel braided brake hose with ABE ⏩ Special lengths with certification available ✔️ Accurate fit ✔️ fast & free delivery

www.probrake.de

That’s suspicious, because the product is listed for ‘12-‘14 models. In the US market, the ‘12 and ‘13 front 3 pot caliper has two hoses going to it, whereas the ‘14’s 2 pot front caliper has one hose. Brakes are not linked in the same way for ‘12-‘13 vs ‘14. How does one kit fit both schemes? I would recommend asking questions before ordering.

 

[Lee Dodge]

The website says they build custom lines and have an english speaking staff so I would call them and discuss what you need.
I am probably going to get some lines from them for my CB300R over the winter.

 

[wheel_of_steel]

Do they sell pre-made steel braided lines that already have the ABS module on one end? The OEM ABS brake line has a banjo bolt at the master cylinder end and then some sort of ABS "block" on the other end. Reference part #5 and the part that's labeled F-5-20 on this link: https://www.revzilla.com/oem/honda/...e-master-cylinder-2-551458?submodel=nc700xdac

On a side note, do you know what F-5-20 means or what it's referencing in the parts diagram?

Hi 16DCT, I used the stock line from the CTX700 ABS successfully, it has the ABS block at the lower end of the hose.

Thread with details and part numbers here: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/using-ctx-cables-to-install-risers.18959/

 

[16DCT]

Hi 16DCT, I used the stock line from the CTX700 ABS successfully, it has the ABS block at the lower end of the hose.

Thread with details and part numbers here: https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/using-ctx-cables-to-install-risers.18959/

This is very good to hear, but I see you have the NC700S version. Do you think it'll still work on my NC700X?

 

[wheel_of_steel]

This is very good to hear, but I see you have the NC700S version. Do you think it'll still work on my NC700X?

I think so, the amount of rise and pullback on the X is about halfway between the S and the CTX.

If the clutch cables on the S, X, and CTX are all compatible (with different lengths),
And the brake lines are compatible between the S and CTX are compatible (with different lengths)

I think it's a fairly safe bet that the CTX brake hose will fit an X with risers.

 

[16DCT]

I think so, the amount of rise and pullback on the X is about halfway between the S and the CTX.

If the clutch cables on the S, X, and CTX are all compatible (with different lengths),
And the brake lines are compatible between the S and CTX are compatible (with different lengths)

I think it's a fairly safe bet that the CTX brake hose will fit an X with risers.

Awesome. Did you have to do anything special to get the brake fluid flowing through the the lines and abs module after you swapped out the NC700S brake line for the CTX700 one? I assume you drained the lines and brake of all fluid before you made the swap?

 

[wheel_of_steel]

Awesome. Did you have to do anything special to get the brake fluid flowing through the the lines and abs module after you swapped out the NC700S brake line for the CTX700 one? I assume you drained the lines and brake of all fluid before you made the swap?

Good question, hydraulic brakes are a pain in the ass whenever you crack the system open - I got lucky this time and it was fairly ok.

You will need:
-New dot 4 brake fluid
-60mL syringe (try a vet or pharmacy)
-from memory, 3mm and 5mm clear vinyl tubing. Smaller tube fits on the syringe, larger tube fits on brake bleed nipple, and the large tube slips over the smaller tubing securely.

Procedure:
1. Once new line is in place, draw up a column of new fluid in your syringe/tubing, open MC reservoir, crack the bottom bleeder, fit the tubing to bleeder without getting an air bubble, and reverse flush the line until you fill the master cylinder.
2. Close the bleeder valve. You might already have some function from the brake system.
3. Empty out your syringe, and remove the plunger from the syringe. Refit to bottom bleeder valve.
4. Now do a conventional bleed of the brakes, bleeding into the plungerless syringe, keep going until you have flushed out all the old brake fluid from the system.
5. Keeping the syringe in situ, refit the plunger and reverse flush again.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all the air is out and your lever feels good.

There's no special procedure for bleeding the ABS on the NC700, but if you do it this way, you will never contaminate the pump with air in the first place. When you remove the rubber line, the column of fluid in the steel ABS lines and the rubber hoses down to the caliper doesn't leak out. When you start with a reverse flush, the ABS pump only ever sees the old fluid followed by the new fluid you're forcing backwards up the line.

Hope that made sense and is helpful. Cheers.

 

[halfSpinDoctor]

Procedure:
1. Once new line is in place, draw up a column of new fluid in your syringe/tubing, open MC reservoir, crack the bottom bleeder, fit the tubing to bleeder without getting an air bubble, and reverse flush the line until you fill the master cylinder.
2. Close the bleeder valve. You might already have some function from the brake system.
3. Empty out your syringe, and remove the plunger from the syringe. Refit to bottom bleeder valve.
4. Now do a conventional bleed of the brakes, bleeding into the plungerless syringe, keep going until you have flushed out all the old brake fluid from the system.
5. Keeping the syringe in situ, refit the plunger and reverse flush again.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all the air is out and your lever feels good.

There's no special procedure for bleeding the ABS on the NC700, but if you do it this way, you will never contaminate the pump with air in the first place. When you remove the rubber line, the column of fluid in the steel ABS lines and the rubber hoses down to the caliper doesn't leak out. When you start with a reverse flush, the ABS pump only ever sees the old fluid followed by the new fluid you're forcing backwards up the line.

Hope that made sense and is helpful. Cheers.

When I installed my stainless braided lines, I also did the reverse-bleed with a syringe and some tubing. Worked great, until I let the tubing slip off the end of the syringe, resulting in an explosion of DOT4 all over my face and clothes. Thankfully missed all of the paint, got the bike cleaned up asap and no damage.