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What happened? Lights out (dash)

MZ5

MZ5

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Started the bike this AM to come to work (I leave in the dark), and everything was fine. Within 1 - 200 yards, the dash light went out. The display was still working, but the backlight was not. Arrived at work, shut the bike off, turned the key back on after several seconds, and the dash lit up correctly.

What am I looking for here, to troubleshoot??
 
I think i remember reading somewhere (on this site) that a dash acting funny was a sign of a battery on it's way out. If you're still running with the original battery (like me) it may be about that time. Couldn't hurt to clean and tighten the connections first.

Good Luck,
-Saturday
 
Haven't been on the bike since that day. Dash worked properly on the way home. I have to be off the bike for a couple weeks, so I'll just keep an eye on it for now.

I have replaced the battery once. I am aware that Arizona is possibly the harshest American climate for batteries, but it would be highly aggravating if this battery is shot, too.
 
I'll second the battery theory. I hate lead acid batteries and replaced mine with a Battery Tender LifePO4 one, couldn't be happier.

Speaking of battery tender, if you're not going to be riding it for a few weeks, maybe hook it up if you have one?
If not, disconnect the negative lead on the battery, wrap it with tape. This will help minimize any parasitic drains. The battery will still drain itself though.

I keep one of these in my on-bike tool kit to help diagnose electrical issues. (I've never had any!)

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0157-Disconnect-Voltage/dp/B00DJ5KE9A
 
Does LiPO live any longer in extraordinarily hot environments, than AGM?

Heat even kills quite a few OEM car & pickup batteries here within the factory bumper-to-bumper warranty period. Honda replaced the factory battery in my Ridgeline pickup when I had the truck in for something else. They test the batteries on all cars in for service, apparently, and they replaced mine under the 3/36 warranty.
 
MZ5 said:
.... the dash light went out. The display was still working, but the backlight was not....

...What am I looking for here, to troubleshoot??
Click to expand...

You need to unplug 16p connector from combination meter, spray contacts on both sides (connector and meter) with good electrical contact cleaner and plug it back. If this doesn't help... you may have to start looking for combination meter replacement.
 
Not the battery. Once the machine is started, the alternator is supplying well over battery voltage to the electronics. I think lootzyan is onto it. I use DeOxit for electrical terminal conditioning. Otherwise, the fault is inside the combination meter. As I recall, there are six or seven backlight LED's. I had the meter apart once, but memory fades. I think there are pics I took of the inside of the meter on here somewhere. If they all go out and all come back on, it is most likely a connection issue. The connector to the module being the most likely and an internal break in continuity less likely.

EDITED TO ADD: It was nine LED's. Soldered onto the main board of the combination meter.

aaaa nc display.jpg
 
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If you have good soldering iron and steady hand you may try to reseat some solder points on circuit board. Use caution - solder melting temperature is much lower then it use to be.
Seal gasket for meter cover may require additional sealing agent. You don't want moist air (not to mention water) to be suck in.
 
I believe it's a battery-related problem. Not sure why sometimes the display's backlight won't come back on after start-up, or goes back out within a couple hundred yards, but the other day the bike wouldn't turn over at all. After a few tries, and after I let it sit for about 2 minutes, then it (barely) started. On that note, I'm very displeased that the Yuasa batteries in a bike that's ridden most days aren't lasting more than 2 years. Yes, Arizona kills batteries faster than anywhere else, but this is ridiculous.
 
MZ5 said:
... display's backlight won't come back on after start-up, or goes back out within a couple hundred yards, but the other day the bike wouldn't turn over at all. After a few tries, and after I let it sit for about 2 minutes, then it (barely) started. ...
Click to expand...

You just answered your own question - it's internal connection problem.
Your battery not lasting long enough... it's separate issue.
 
No, it's the battery. Today _all_ the lights (including front markers/signals) went out each time the engine came up on compression. Cranked very slowly, too. Connecting to a new, strong battery eliminates the problem.
 
First you said that: "...Within 1 - 200 yards, the dash light went out. The display was still working, but the backlight was not....".
When you ride (or idle) alternator supplies current to all electrical devices, including display.

Now you're saying: " ...Today _all_ the lights (including front markers/signals) went out each time the engine came up on compression. Cranked very slowly, too...."
- that is a battery problem.
Two separate problems.
 
Motorcycles have a permanent magnet alternator. Their output is dependent on the engine's rpm. The maximum output is achieved at about 5.000 rpm. So it's impossible to charge the battery all the time. On some motorcycles the battery may be discharged when idling..

It's not an easy task to fully charge a lead acid battery... It needs time. Our riding style, riding distances / time, and other factors are affecting the charging.

It's a best practice to install a permanent volt meter to monitor the charging system all the time. It's a matter of time for a motorcycle charging system to fail (all the parts - generator & R/R - are deteriorating mostly by heat).

You've to check if you've parasitic drain, and the health of your charging system (you need a new, fully charged battery for this) and the battery. But usually most of our problems are caused by bad electrical connections. Check thoroughly the battery terminals and related connectors...

Also the battery acts as a filter, and if it's not in good condition you may see many crazy things...
 
peergum said:
With our NCs rarely going around or above 5000RPMs, that's not good news ;)
Click to expand...

Probably yes. But anything above 3-3.5K rpm must be adequate to charge it. It is just a guess. We've no clue about the power output curve of the NC's generator. I hope that someday someone will put a watt-meter / logger. Any volunteer? :)

Anyway I'm finished with lead acid, for that reason and because of my daily short rides. LFP is much better in those aspects... No undercharged battery, no sulfation any more!
 
My riding style is:
Start up, ride 35 - 40 miles down highway & freeway at 60 - 72 mph, shut down. Repeat.

If there is a charging problem, it can only be either an alternator or regulator problem. If it was an alternator problem, it wouldn't take 2 years to kill the battery, nor would the condition improve after riding to work. The problem returns or gets worse after the bike sits a couple to few days.

There COULD be a RR problem, but there IS a battery problem, and that is what causes the issue I posted about, because starting it with the new battery I just put in the Magna fixes/eliminates the issue. This clarifies that it is NOT a loose connection in the dash. The fact that the issue returns when I put the NCX's battery back in clarifies that it is NOT a battery cable connection.

Thanks to all for the discussion. I may once again consider the different style of RR like Beemerphile had on his NCX.
 
+1 on checking the charging system with a volt meter, but make sure it has a known good battery in it first. Test it with bike in N at idle and again at 2500 RPM.

Fine print note 1: A charging system connected to a flaky battery can yield some weird test results.

Fine print note 2: The spec alternator output is 420W at 5,000 RPM but there is no need to push it. If the charging system can't get the job done at 2500 RPM there is a problem.

Good Luck, Saturday.
 
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