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Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

Lots of good info in this thread. Will certainly be a huge help.

Stemming from Lou's comment above, how many NC owners have gone without a valve clearance check? I'll be honest, I skipped my 8,000 mile check entirely. Reason being, I have read much of the info from this site stating the valves do not move much on the NC. I also put a ton of miles on (~2,000 miles per month) so I knew I would get to my valve checks very quickly. Maybe not the best reasoning, but I took a gamble. I will be creeping up on the 16,000 mile interval by the end of this month. Hopefully I do not find the valves overly tight/loose at that time. Maybe not the best practice, but I am curious to hear if others have found themselves in a similar boat.
 
I'll be honest, I skipped my 8,000 mile check entirely. Reason being, I have read much of the info from this site stating the valves do not move much on the NC.

It seems to vary a little bike to bike, as you'd expect. I went 10k before my first check and the exhaust valves were on the tight side of spec. At 20k and 25k they moved less, only slight adjustments to center a couple of the clearances in spec.

However, I checked a friend's for the first time at 12-14k miles, and every valve was dead on in the middle of spec. He's coming up on another adjustment soon at ~25k, I'm curious to see if his have moved at all.

trey
 
on the manual of 2014 NC the valve interval is at 16k.

I am thinking that any older NC can do 16k as well. skip the 8k.

Agreed. On my 2012, I did my first valve check at 8K. Probably wait 'til 20K comes for the second check. If all is well I will go to 16K intervals.
 
valve check are consider emission maintenance required to be described in the manual by the EPA and CARB.

my thought is that when the NC came out Honda did not have enough data to show the EPA that 16k is when then valve will have a likeliness of coming out of adjustment. so they wrote 8k. with more data in 2014 they resubmitted for approval from EPA to be 16k
 
I could tell with my old Suzuki GS500 as it just didn't sound right. The exhaust valves were off according to the shop that got it back up to spec. Does the fact that this engine is based on an original automobile design affect the length of this maintenance chore? I rarely hear mention of valve adjustment on cars. Sorry if these are stupid questions. Thanks for all the discussion.
 
I could tell with my old Suzuki GS500 as it just didn't sound right. The exhaust valves were off according to the shop that got it back up to spec. Does the fact that this engine is based on an original automobile design affect the length of this maintenance chore? I rarely hear mention of valve adjustment on cars. Sorry if these are stupid questions. Thanks for all the discussion.

1) Your GS valves were likely getting "loose," and that's why you heard them clattering. On the NC's they send to get tight, which means you likely won't hear them -- but they are at risk for being struck by a piston.

2) Most cars have self adjusting valves these days -- often through a hydraulic method. Our bikes do not, hence the adjustment.

3) Im due for another adjustment but after this one I will probably go 16k miles between adjustments.
 
A little FYI for everyone. Do NOT over torque the valve cover bolts, they will snap and you won't be able to ride for a week.
 
A little FYI for everyone. Do NOT over torque the valve cover bolts, they will snap and you won't be able to ride for a week.

My first thought is why you would snap more than one :confused: (as in "bolts","they"), but maybe it was just your choice of words.:rolleyes:

Live and learn, I suppose. Yes, the cover bolt torque spec is much lower than you would expect.
 
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I did only snap one and was able to remove it with the ole screwdriver and soft mallet tapping trick. Came right out. Dealer ordered a bunch to keep in stock thanks to me. Pretty crappy way to end the year but I only have one day left to go to work before our new baby gets here so the bike will be sitting for a few weeks.
 
In ref to finding TDC (on compression stroke), if you wiggle all 4 rocker arms and they all have clearance, you're at the correct TDC. If you're at TDC (on exhaust stroke), only the intake rocker arms will have clearance.
 
I did my first valve adjustment last week at 13K miles. Seven valves were .001" tight and the other was right on. I guess the 16K interval on the 750 would apply to the 700.
 
I did my first valve adjustment last week at 13K miles. Seven valves were .001" tight and the other was right on. I guess the 16K interval on the 750 would apply to the 700.

Nice. I'm going to do another here, in 1000 miles and then I won't touch it again for an additional 16,000 miles.
 
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