1st Oil change

[wozza]

I envy you American guys and your warranty laws. Here at Spain you have to go to an authorized dealer to do the service for the first two years if you want to avoid any warranty issues. It is so hard that even most owners avoid to do any single mod while on warranty.

European law says you don't have to go to a Honda dealer in order to keep your warranty. The EU stopped the manufacturers from stipulating that a vehicle must be serviced at one of their authorised dealers, though the service must be carried out by a competant person using recommended parts.

 

[Poison]

This bike is super easy to change the oil on , filter came right off for me. I have the flat wrench also. Funny thing is ,this bike takes the same filter as my 08 wing and I have several of those left

Almost all honda bikes use the same filter but just different part number according to my dealer.

 

[TN WIMP]

I did the 600 this week also, had a few chips no where as many as you show, I used a Honda filter and Honda 10/30 full syn. It did take exactly 3.6 qts as stated in manual, thats a first for me, usually its way over filled if the specified amount was used. The filter was a B I itch to remove as others have mentioned.

PLUS 1 did the same

 

[netizen]

I changed the oil yesterday, after reading some of the comments about removing the oil filter I was a little worried. I have a couple of different oil filter tools, the filter came off easily. Here's the tool I used.View attachment 1440
My local dealer sold me the Honda 10w-40, claims their service department uses it. Taking my time, it took me about 45 minutes and $37 using Honda parts. The dealer wanted $121.

View attachment 1441

Ed

Where did you get that filter wrench? Looks like a nice one to have around....

 

[deedub]

Where did you get that filter wrench? Looks like a nice one to have around....

It looks to be this guy, or something similar. I think I'll grab one too.

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

[StratTuner]

I changed the oil yesterday, after reading some of the comments about removing the oil filter I was a little worried. I have a couple of different oil filter tools, the filter came off easily. Here's the tool I used.View attachment 1440
My local dealer sold me the Honda 10w-40, claims their service department uses it. Taking my time, it took me about 45 minutes and $37 using Honda parts. The dealer wanted $121.

View attachment 1441

Ed

How does the oil filter come out? It looks like you used a simple socket wrench to get the cover off.
Is there something else you have to do once the cover is off? Doesn't the oil filter fall out when you remove the engine cover?
Where is the best place to order the oil filter itself?
I plan to go with 10w30 synthetic. I'll search this board for what others use so I can buy the right stuff.

 

[showkey]

How does the oil filter come out? It looks like you used a simple socket wrench to get the cover off.
Is there something else you have to do once the cover is off? Doesn't the oil filter fall out when you remove the engine cover?
Where is the best place to order the oil filter itself?
I plan to go with 10w30 synthetic. I'll search this board for what others use so I can buy the right stuff.

Double posting:


Try reading the owner's manual that others asked everyone in prior posting: "Please read the owner's manual"

PAGE 76-79 covers it. Double check and read the NOTICES and WARNINGS as well........it is possible to do serious damage to the bike and your self and others.

 

[yticolev]

How does the oil filter come out? It looks like you used a simple socket wrench to get the cover off.
Is there something else you have to do once the cover is off? Doesn't the oil filter fall out when you remove the engine cover?
Where is the best place to order the oil filter itself?
I plan to go with 10w30 synthetic. I'll search this board for what others use so I can buy the right stuff.

The oil filter is a normal one piece spin on filter, just like a car. The only cover you have to remove is a piece of plastic trim. I haven't read this whole thread recently, but Honda apparently likes to screw on everything very tightly. Some talked about drilling a hole in the filter to use a drift. I happen to have a large offset pair of pliers that works really well for removing filters. It usually crushes them a bit but who cares? Some have managed to change the filter without removing the plastic trim, but I'd venture to guess not on the first oil filter change.

 

[ray]

I've read a few service manuals that always advocate warming the bike up before changing oil. I supposed this is required for cooler climates where the oil will need to be warmed for it to drain better. Question is in a hot climate where I live where temperature averages above 30 degree celsius, is it necessary to do so? I would imagine all the debris has fallen to the oil sump when left overnight and will be ideal to drain out the oil then. Starting the bike will fling them all over the place isn't it?

 

[skiphunt]

Just noticed earlier today, since I bought my nc700x out of state and rode it home to Austin, Texas... I'm ALREADY passed the 600mi first oil change. Had 848mi already, so I went to the closest parts store and got 10-40 (didn't have 10-30) and a FRAM filter. Yeah, I know the FRAMS aren't supposed to be good and all, but I've used them on my last two bikes without issue. First bike for 24k, and second bike for 75k. I figure if there's an issue with FRAM filters, I'd have seen it by now.

HOLY CRAP that OEM filter was freakin' HARD to get off!!! My wife went to get me a slip-style filter wrench and I busted it trying to get that freakin' filter off. She went back to the parts store with the busted one, and came back with filter pliers. I basically crunched up the OEM filter pretty good before it loosened.

Glad it's done though. Do they use some kind of uber-robots to tighten them on from the factory?!

 

[Beemerphile]

I've read a few service manuals that always advocate warming the bike up before changing oil. I supposed this is required for cooler climates where the oil will need to be warmed for it to drain better. Question is in a hot climate where I live where temperature averages above 30 degree celsius, is it necessary to do so? I would imagine all the debris has fallen to the oil sump when left overnight and will be ideal to drain out the oil then. Starting the bike will fling them all over the place isn't it?

You will get more debris out with hot oil that still has the bad stuff still in suspension. Once it settles out, the gunk will remain on the floor of the pan after you drain the oil. Then the gunk will redissolve into the new oil and you have instant dirty oil. You can test this. Drain your oil (car or bike) into a drain pan while it is hot, then drain the pan quickly into other containers. You will see that the pan is essentially clean after you drain the oil. Next time, drain your oil into a drain pan while it is hot (as before) but wait until tomorrow to empty it into containers. Take a look at what is left behind. That is what you are leaving in the bottom of the oil sump if you drain it cold.

PS: Fram filters are total garbage.

 

[skiphunt]

PS: Fram filters are total garbage.

Yeah, I've heard others say that... but I was in a panic since I'd already gone over the 600mi change by 248miles. So, I went with what I could get immediately. Will likely just put a K&N on it the next change. Certainly not going to change the oil again because of it.

 

[yticolev]

I've read a few service manuals that always advocate warming the bike up before changing oil. I supposed this is required for cooler climates where the oil will need to be warmed for it to drain better. Question is in a hot climate where I live where temperature averages above 30 degree celsius, is it necessary to do so? I would imagine all the debris has fallen to the oil sump when left overnight and will be ideal to drain out the oil then. Starting the bike will fling them all over the place isn't it?

All the debris should be in the filter! Do change that. No real harm done to change the oil cold, but do it after a ride to get your full money's worth. Warm oil flows out better so your hot oil change will leave considerably less old oil in your bike. The temperature after a ride will be a lot hotter than 30 degrees, you may burn yourself on the oil if you touch it.

 

[StratTuner]

I have done a couple of oil changes now and use this wrench. While very tight the factory installed filter came off without a problem. I have lots of filter wrenches but none works as good for me as this one. When I bought this wrench I had to grind off a portion of the circumference to clear the frame of my ST1300 and this thin part also just clears the coolant overflow bottle on the NC700X. I always use Honda OEM filters on my bikes.

I just ordered one of those at your recommendation. I 'd like to take up this thread and add pictures to it as I go.
I've ordered THIS filter and plan to change the oil as soon as the parts arrive.

I remember there was a thread about what oil to use, so I'm off to find that.

More entries and pictures as this progresses.
Hey, it's all about learning.

 

[skiphunt]

I just ordered one of those at your recommendation. I 'd like to take up this thread and add pictures to it as I go.
I've ordered THIS filter and plan to change the oil as soon as the parts arrive.

I remember there was a thread about what oil to use, so I'm off to find that.

More entries and pictures as this progresses.
Hey, it's all about learning.

This one looks like it would work better than both the wrenches I tried. The slip style was useless to get the near welded-on OEM filter off. New and it busted before even budging. The filter wrench I got did the trick, but mangled the OEM filter before it finally broke loose.

 

[L.B.S.]

This one looks like it would work better than both the wrenches I tried. The slip style was useless to get the near welded-on OEM filter off. New and it busted before even budging. The filter wrench I got did the trick, but mangled the OEM filter before it finally broke loose.

When I went in to a Honda dealer to buy my first oil filter, they asked if I wanted just a filter, or the filter and wrench combo package. I've never had that asked of me before in all my years.

It was rather expensive, but I had heard many a woebegone tale of the Honda Gorilla in charge of over tightening the OEM filters, so I went for it.

The filter wrench was just one of those generic looking silver metal fluted cap styles, that had a 17mm nut welded onto the end. Came in OEM Honda sealed plastic package, already on the new filter. My oil filter was (typical) only finger tight on my bike! I guess the Gorilla was having an Advil day or something when my bike was on the assembly line, lol.

The filter did get stuck really well into the wrench when I removed it from the bike though, so I was more than glad that the welded on nut let you thread a bolt into it, and push the used filter out.

 

[soggybottom]

I have had one of those filter wrenches as Strat has in his post, it is real nice but when used on my 1st oil change that wrench striped the flats on the filter, that's how tight it was. I did end up banging a screw driver through it, luckily that did the trick but even that almost failed!

 

[GsVs]

Crush Washer ??

Is this the right part number for the Engine oil drain plug crush washer ??


94109-12000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (12MM)

Thanks ...

 

[StratTuner]

I finished the oil change myself. I endedup using Mobil 10w40 4T from Walmart.

I had a difficult time with the oil filter since that fancy wrench still hasn't arrived yet. I bought th "cap" type sized for that filter, and it slipped!
I took it off, put it on it's side, banged it with a hammer, turned it a little, banged, until I'd gone all the way around.
That tightened the grip the "cap" had on the filter, and then it actually worked!

I considered using the Rotella T6 oil because so many motorcyclists do, and it has two of the three Honda requirements: (see below)

[excerpted from another post...]

Thanks for clearing that up! I had hoped that "JASO T 903" and "JASO MA" were te same.
Evidence now shifts toward Rotella T6 because it has two of the three requirements:
1.JASO MA, and 2.API SG or better. The 5w-40 viscosity rating isn't spec, but the range it covers includes 10w-30 (which is spec).

On Amazon.com, 4qts of Honda GN4 10w-30 (100% spec) ships for $35 TOTAL (tax, shipping included). $7 of $35 gets it sent to my door.

I don't know which I will choose after the next 8,000 miles!, but I'm pretty confident (thanks to all the people who replied) that Rotella would have been just fine.

Thank you, all.

 

[StratTuner]

I think I'll go with the Honda oil next time. I can order it online, and it shows up at my dor, AND it's 100% spec.