2014 NC700x DCT ABS: ABS Issues 2.0

tnaracing14

New Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
SoCal
Visit site
Hello Everyone,

Last week I noticed my ABS light is blinking during ride. Manual says that means the ABS is down but the brakes continue to function conventionally, but won't give any further insight.
After a few days of riding on it I've started to notice what it feels like when the issue begins but I have no clue what it could be, since I'm not experienced with ABS on bikes at all.
At some point during the ride, most mornings right when I start off, but also some times a few minutes into the ride, I'll apply the brakes and the lever gets VERY stiff, feels almost as though it's stuck. If I hold it to continue braking I can feel the controller loosen up, I can feel the fluid moving around in the system and the lever returns to what it should feel like but then the ABS light starts blinking in that moment and stays on the rest of the ride. Brakes operate just fine.
I think a side effect of this issue is that the bike also won't upshift from 1st for a few moments, regardless of mode. I'll mash the button a few times before it upshifts and goes well past it's usual point, but that only happens once or twice. It didn't start happening until the ABS issue started though, which is why I think the ABS is also slightly interfering with the DCT here.

2014 DCT ABS with about 39000 miles, always performed the proper maintenance. There was a point over a year ago where I had to store it outside without a cover in the rain for a couple months but that was too long ago to have been the cause of these issues...I think. I do use it to ride in the rain though, since it's my only means of transportation.

Anyone have any insight? I have no clue what it could be and I don't want to take it to Honda just yet. I can fix most things myself, I just need to figure out what it is first.
Thanks.

Posting this in a second forum to see if I can get a quicker response, since this is my daily driver and I have no other means of transportation at the moment.
 

showkey

Super Mods
Joined
Dec 2, 2012
Messages
1,926
Reaction score
97
Points
48
Location
Wausau WI
Visit site
Your going to need a Honda service manual.
A jumper wire or the Honda service connector. Jump the service port and the ABS dash light will flash the error code.
There are 25 error codes leading to the components in the ABS system.

If there’s an current error code in the engine/transmission system, key on, side stand down the engine light will flash the error code.

One easy and critical DIY check is the battery ...........the ABS and DCT systems don’t tolerate a weak or failing battery, which includes battery connections that maybe loose or dirty. Especially when the bike was stored outside or out of service for some time.
 
Last edited:

tnaracing14

New Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
SoCal
Visit site
Some more info:

Since this is my daily, and my only, I've been riding it on the faulty ABS. I believe it's getting worse.
The brake system now ALWAYS goes stiff, then I feel the fluid move around and the lever goes back to normal. Almost like if a piston in the caliper is in too far and the fluid pushed it out but I know that's not the case.
The DCT is most definitely effected from this. Whenever the ABS goes off, the DCT will not upshift until it absolutely has to. This typically happens when I'm in first but I'm starting to notice it across the entire range. And it also no longer happens only when the ABS goes off, it's now random. Happened yesterday when I was doing 40mph trying to slow to 30 for a turn and it wouldn't downshift no matter how much I pressed the button. And all night last night when I would start from a stop, it won't upshift until 25mph which is the bike's limit in 1st. But when it does finally shift because it's forced to, it goes back to normal shifting.

I have parts coming in for my other bike to put back out on the road and once I do I'll hand her over either to my mechanic or my local Honda, unless y'all have any suggestions before I do that.
 

tnaracing14

New Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
SoCal
Visit site
Your going to need a Honda service manual.
A jumper wire or the Honda service connector. Jump the service port and the ABS dash light will flash the error code.
There are 25 error codes leading to the components in the ABS system.

If there’s an current error code in the engine/transmission system, key on, side stand down the engine light will flash the error code.

One easy and critical DIY check is the battery ...........the ABS and DCT systems don’t tolerate a weak or failing battery, which includes battery connections that maybe loose or dirty. Especially when the bike was stored outside or out of service for some time.
Thanks, I'll look into that this weekend.
No codes when the motor is not running, key in, sidestand down. Only happens after I've started moving.
 

TacomaJD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
1,194
Reaction score
388
Points
78
Location
Northeast Alabama
Visit site
That's strange, and another reason why I hate abs. I prefer less electronic things to tear up. I'm curious what ends up being the culprit.

My 2013 model has around 12k miles on it, I've owned it less than a year. Before I took it to the racetrack last year, I flushed the brake fluid front and rear, then a few weeks later put new EBC HH brake pads on it. The fronts were worn pretty good, so when I put the new pads on, I had to force the caliper pistons out, which pushes fluid back into the reservoir. I didn't think anything about it, but noticed a couple times on track (abusing brakes) where the lever would get stiff as you describe, but not THAT bad, and the abs light never came on. But it seemed the brakes may have been dragging a bit, because they would make a screeching (not squealing) sound when coming to a stop sometimes after a track session or ridig for a while on the street.

Anyways, thought later on that the reservoir may be over full now since putting on new pads, so I removed the reservoir cap, and soaked up some brake fluid with a paper towel, then put the cap back on. Haven't been back to track yet, but seemed to have helped on the street.

When was the last time you flushed your brake fluid? It could be too full? Have moisture in it? Need flushing if it hasn't been done, etc. Or have air in the lines.

Also, master cylinder could be faulty and allowing air to get in the system, a buddy of mine's GSXR 1000 just did this, but that would probably result in a soft lever, not harder.

There's a lot of things that could be causing it, about the only way to figure out what it is, is start going through it and making sure everything in the braking system is good to go.

Its pretty cheap and easy to flush brake fluid, if you aint done it in a while, might be worth doing yourself to see if it changes anything.
 

tnaracing14

New Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2019
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
SoCal
Visit site
NEW UPDATE:
Gave it over to the mechanic who said I didn't bleed the brakes properly and there was a ton of air in the lines. Makes sense, I'm not experienced with ABS on bikes.
But now when I ride, the ABS still goes off, but the brakes STAY stiff, and the shifting issue is still a thing
At least the brakes bite hard now, but still having the issue.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
 

TacomaJD

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2019
Messages
1,194
Reaction score
388
Points
78
Location
Northeast Alabama
Visit site
NEW UPDATE:
Gave it over to the mechanic who said I didn't bleed the brakes properly and there was a ton of air in the lines. Makes sense, I'm not experienced with ABS on bikes.
But now when I ride, the ABS still goes off, but the brakes STAY stiff, and the shifting issue is still a thing
At least the brakes bite hard now, but still having the issue.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
You bleed the brakes same on an abs bike as you would non-abs bike. Next time go to parts store, buy a bleeder kit that comes with a catch cup and bleeder hose that attaches to said cup, hook it on the bleeder on the caliper, remove lid from brake reservoir so you can monitor fluid level, pump brake once or twice and hold it down, use wrench to loosen the bleeder screw and let fluid push put into the cup, tighten screw with wrench, then release brake lever, pump again once or twice, and repeat, filling the reservoir back up once it is full. Then go to the back and do same thing there.

Never let back out on the brake lever until after the screw has been re-tightened after pushing fluid out, and never let the reservoir fluid level get too low/empty, always make sure reservoir has at least enough fluid to cover the bottom of it.
 

Klap

Active Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2018
Messages
126
Reaction score
68
Points
28
Location
Canton, GA
Visit site
The bleeding helper of choice over on the ST1300 forum is the Motion Pro bleeder, which is both reasonably priced and pretty foolproof. Took me all of 20 minutes to flush, fill and bleed the brakes on my NCX.
 

davidc83

Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
2,397
Reaction score
301
Points
83
Location
Southern Indiana/Central Florida-part time snow bi
Visit site
These bikes also don't like any kind of corrosion on the battery terminals or cables (you did mention you stored it outside for a while)....disconnect your battery cables, take a small file and run it over the battery terminals and then run it over the cable connectors until shiny. Reconnect and see how the bike performs....also, battery could be weak (as mentioned earlier by another poster).. If you have the original battery, time to change anyways.
 
Top