2014 oil question

[Inked469]

So I was debating this after I changed my oil and wanted to see what you guys thought. I bought my bike as a new 14 left over. It sat for quite a long time and I just did my break in oil change. It made a noticeable difference in both engine feel and shifting smoothness. I'm wondering if the dealer used the wrong oil or the fact it sat for 2 years had some effect on it.


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[rippin209]

So I was debating this after I changed my oil and wanted to see what you guys thought. I bought my bike as a new 14 left over. It sat for quite a long time and I just did my break in oil change. It made a noticeable difference in both engine feel and shifting smoothness. I'm wondering if the dealer used the wrong oil or the fact it sat for 2 years had some effect on it.


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Sitting isn't good for any vehicles but that's almost entirely external, rubbers and such. So probably not. The oil for the NC700X isn't anything odd or unique and if you got it done at a dealership a really doubt that they put the wrong oil (it's at least unlikely) most likely it's just breaking in. Most everyone here has said they noticed it getting smoother somewhere between 1K and 3K mile mark

 

[MZ5]

Changing oil in _any_ transmission changes the shift feel. There are solid chemical reasons for this, but the takeaway is to expect slight changes to feel when changing oil but using the exact same product. Expect more noticeable changes to feel when switching brands or types. In a synchronized automotive tranny (not like our bikes'), it will usually take several hundred to sometimes more than a thousand miles for the chemistry the old oil left behind to be replaced by the new, and for that chemistry to stabilize and feel to settle.

 

[670cc]

If I understand correctly, you have just changed the oil at the 600 mile first service. The oil you removed was installed at the factory. It's extremely unlikely that it was the wrong oil. The selling dealer should have had no reason or desire to fiddle with the oil. You'd be lucky if they even checked the level.

My opinion is that oil sitting in a new machine in a climate controlled environment is no different than oil that sat in a bottle for two years. I've never seen bottling dates or use-by dates on oil bottles, although I'd guess they exist somewhere on some brand. Is far as I'm concerned, I've never felt any difference in machine performance with old or new oil. Factors like load, ambient temperature, engine temperature, etc. make way more difference and would mask any subtle change due to the oil.

Oil is oil (as long as it meets the recommended specs). It lubes the engine so it won't wear out. That's all there is to it.

Unfortunately, any oil topic will reach no consensus. Don't expect to get the answers you're looking for.

 

[Old Can Ride]

I have to agree with 670cc, oil is oil. In the real world they do all mix.............
The oil companies have a strong lock on buffaloing us all. Just meet manufactures minimal requirements in your owners manual when in the warranty period, and brand really does not matter.

 

[Inked469]

I have to agree with 670cc, oil is oil. In the real world they do all mix.............
The oil companies have a strong lock on buffaloing us all. Just meet manufactures minimal requirements in your owners manual when in the warranty period, and brand really does not matter.

Just confirms my suspicion. I stick with recommended oils and then go from there. It's never steered me wrong. Thanks for all your input.


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[DirtFlier]

[The oil companies have a strong lock on buffaloing us all.]

Several years ago while looking for auto oil at my local Advance Auto Parts, I noticed they have special packaging for V-twin motorcycle oil, import car oil, oil for high mileage cars, oil for SUVs/4 x 4s, etc. I'm only surprised they didn't have a special packaging of an oil designed for mini-vans driven by soccer moms.

 

[670cc]

[The oil companies have a strong lock on buffaloing us all.]

I'm only surprised they didn't have a special packaging of an oil designed for mini-vans driven by soccer moms.

They would have, but Walmart said nope, all you get for oil is one whole aisle, both sides. Meanwhile the brake fluid section only gets 2 cubic feet. Brake fluid gets no respect.

 

[dduelin]

I don't get carried away with it but with some of my motorcycles I did note differences in shift action over time (accumulated mileage not simply passage of time) and at the time of an oil change. I haven't noticed any differences with the DCT however. I've only had it about 19,000 miles and three oil changes and I have always used the same oil brand and viscosity in my two NC700Xs.

 

[DirtFlier]

Yes, the improvement in shifting smoothness with fresh oil is really noticeable with a manual transmission bike. With our DCT bikes, it is being done for us so not so apparent!

 

[Inked469]

Yes, the improvement in shifting smoothness with fresh oil is really noticeable with a manual transmission bike. With our DCT bikes, it is being done for us so not to apparent!

Yeah I have the manual so that would be consistent with what I felt.


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[HarveyM]

I'll just note the manual suggests an oil change every year (for future reference).

 

[Inked469]

I'll just note the manual suggests an oil change every year (for future reference).

Were good there . I'll be putting about 2000 miles a month on the bike so I'll be changing the oil plenty.


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[DirtFlier]

[...They would have, but Walmart said nope, all you get for oil is one whole aisle, both sides. Meanwhile the brake fluid section only gets 2 cubic feet. Brake fluid gets no respect...]

Most people own a car for 10-15 years and never change the brake fluid (on their own) per recommendations of 2 years, and motorcycle riders aren't much different. Two years ago, I helped a friend change the brake fluid/bleed the system on his '04 ST1300. It was the original fluid and the color of soy sauce!

ps. most of the cars with ABS recirculate the brake fluid so merely emptying the reservoir and refilling with fresh fluid helps but bleeding is much better. Putting in fresh fluid doesn't help the lack of firmness in the pedal!

 

[670cc]

[...They would have, but Walmart said nope, all you get for oil is one whole aisle, both sides. Meanwhile the brake fluid section only gets 2 cubic feet. Brake fluid gets no respect...]

Most people own a car for 10-15 years and never change the brake fluid per recommendations of 2 years, and motorcycle riders aren't much different. I helped a friend change the brake fluid and bleed the system on his '04 ST1300. It was the original fluid and the color of soy sauce!

ps. most of the cars with ABS recirculate the brake fluid so merely emptying the reservoir and refilling with fresh fluid helps but bleeding is much better. Putting in fresh fluid doesn't help the lack of firmness in the pedal!

I agree that brake fluid in vehicles gets neglected. That's why I snuck that in my post. My point was that brake fluid does not get any marketing attention. Few people would do their own brake fluid change, so it's not marketed aggressively to the end consumer, even though changing it is just important as engine oil changes.

Like brake fluid, we could get by with just a few engine oil brands and types, but since the aggressive marketing of engine oil gets the public all excited and willing to pay more for perceived benefits, we end up with two aisles of product. It's like Campbell's soup. The more flavors they put out, the more shelf space and visibility they get.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Most times the brake fluid does not get dirt in it, as the hydraulic system is sealed. When the brake fluid changes from clear to black that is caused by condensation (water). As you hit your brakes the brakes get hot, then cool off quickly in the wind. It is real important that one changes the brake fluid every 12000 miles. That little water causes the rubber parts in your brake system to rot, so it goes black. Motorcycles for the most part use DOT 4 brake fluid. Dot 3 and Dot 4 do mix, however Dot 5 does not mix with either. The best way is to drain the brakes is to drain the brake fluid out completly, add the new brake fluid, and then the brakes must be bleed.. Most motorcycle shops have snap-on tools to do this job quick, but no such thing as a cheap snap-on tool.

However, there is a do-it-yourself method that is easy and cheap to changing brake fluid. First cover up any and every thing that you could accidentally get brake fluid on, as it will stain everything. Next remove the reserivor cover. Get a syringe from your local drug store. Now use the syringe to suck the brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir until no brake fluid left in the reservoir but you still have brake fluid left going to the line what you will see at the bottom of the reservoir. Now use new dot 4 brake fluid to fill the reservior to the proper amount in the reservior. (Most folks over fill the brake reservior). Now reinstall the reservior cap. Yes, there is still a very small amount of water left in the brake lines, but not enough to really matter or hurt anything. This method does not have to have the brake lines bleed, most the water that damages the rubber parts is gone, and you did not have to pay shop labor fees. Yes, I know the purist out there would never use this method, but it does work just as good without draining the brake lines or damaging anything. Think about it, water starts coming back in as soon as you hit the brake, even if totally drained.

No matter what method you use, do change the brake fluid every 12,000 miles, or maybe you like rebuilding master cycliders.

 

[claybaby]

They would have, but Walmart said nope, all you get for oil is one whole aisle, both sides. Meanwhile the brake fluid section only gets 2 cubic feet. Brake fluid gets no respect.

love it! Rodney Dangerfield of fluids.

 

[DirtFlier]

Motion Pro, purveyor of excellent special tools, sells an inexpensive brake bleeding attachment (#08-0143) for $12.99 and it makes the operation almost fool proof. It is a one-way valve that allows you to pump out the old fluid without concern for air going backwards into the system. Prior to buying this tool mostly out of curiosity, I did it by hand using the old-fashioned method but this tool made it at least 50% easier.

Old Can Ride: Changing the fluid in the reservoir doesn't remove all the water in the system, because water is heavier than brake fluid so it sinks to the lowest point in the system - to the brake calipers. Water down there will eventually start to corrode the caliper pistons. Brake bleeding removes any water down there plus air bubbles.

 

[Alfred_bham]

I love my "Motion Pro" tools!!

Motion Pro, purveyor of excellent special tools, sells an inexpensive brake bleeding attachment (#08-0143) for $12.99 and it makes the operation almost fool proof.

 

[b_rubenstein]

Changing the fluid in the reservoir doesn't remove all the water in the system, because water is heavier than brake fluid so it sinks to the lowest point in the system - to the brake calipers. Water down there will eventually start to corrode the caliper pistons. Brake bleeding removes any water down there plus air bubbles.

The bleed valve is above the brake piston and bore. Water will sit in the bottom of the bore and bleeding will not remove it. This is why when replacing brake pads, crack the bleed valve open (with a tube over the valve and the valve up) and then push the piston(s) back in to the bore. The brake fluid and water will be forced out of the caliper. This is particularly important for all vehicles with ABS systems, because it will keep dirty, contaminated fluid from being forced into the ABS unit.