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A bunch of random new-owner observations

GlennC

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I have no idea whether anybody cares, but here are a few thoughts after putting a few miles on my new NC. Apologies in advance for such a long post.

Comfort

- My gluteus hurteus. All the time. The stock seat has to go.

- Until it does, the bike is far more comfortable for me with two mods which I'd consider critical. I installed a set of 3-1/2" Rox risers and raised the front of the seat. The seat is still bad but no longer awful and rides of an hour or so are fine, though I still feel the seat every minute I’m on the bike. Not great.

- Installing the risers wasn't particularly easy but was doable with all-stock wiring and cables. I'll post separately with specifics to hopefully benefit future members.

- My technique for raising the seat was a carefully-folded and placed old t-shirt under the seat at the right thickness. I think this has some benefits in that all surfaces are protected, the seat makes contact over a wide area, it's easy, and it's obviously completely reversible. Nothing about this particular seat mod is ideal no matter how it's done, since the front of the seat is hanging loose, but this is workable as a temporary, dramatic improvement for comfort.

- Wind protection is almost non-existent. This suits me fine as I've mostly owned un-faired bikes... but... my KLR impresses me by comparison: given its small fairing, it's astonishing how much more wind I feel when I ride something like the NC. A bigger screen and some wind protection for the hands might be in the cards for winter. I did raise the screen to the upper position but didn’t really notice a difference. One win: as on the KLR, I get no buffeting at all and ride in clean air. I hate buffeting.

Engine

- A few things I’ve learned over the years, at least for me, is that big power feels great at first, but I quickly become accustomed to it and then 1) it just feels normal, and 2) it gets me in trouble. What really seems to matter in the long run is 1) how an engine *feels,* i.e. the nature of the vibrations and sounds that it creates; the “textures” it delivers as it’s ridden in different rpm ranges and at different speeds; and 2) the *quality* of its powerband: is it peaky, is it progressive, is it torquey, does it have dips in its power delivery at certain rpms? The NC hits almost all the high points on all counts:

- I could ride all day between two- and three-thousand rpm, and get 85mpg. Doing this feels great despite going slow. Thus the bike doesn’t need to be ridden fast to be enjoyed. Big win.

- It’s perfectly linear and gently progressive as the rpms rise: obviously not peaky; but not flat, either. In the three- to five-thousand rpm range it has an addictively progressive increase in urge and a perfectly-matched, increasingly-insistent quality to its sound and feel. This is what Honda does best, car or bike. It just feels great to *use* the modest power that’s there, which makes the bike more fun with its throttle open than its fifty-or-so hp should allow.

- I wouldn’t say no to an extra 2,000rpm of overhead assuming equally progressive response, but so far I haven’t felt it’s needed. It could well make the bike less fun to ride for me as I might be too tempted to constantly chase the extra performance.

- It’s quiet! To me there is plenty of tactile and aural feedback, and it sounds and feels great. But, almost none of the noise reaches other drivers. One BIG benefit of this is that I can make passes without upsetting other motorists. Passing just in general has a tendency to tick people off. 7,000rpm of aftermarket exhaust right past a driver’s window is extremely annoying and makes motorcyclists look like the negative stereotype already in a lot of peoples’ minds. On the NC you can do a safe, reasonably quick pass in a modest space with no drama for anybody involved. I usually give drivers a goodwill wave after I pass. Result of all of the above is that people are far less likely to take offense, to road rage, to call cops, and so on.

Handling

- The bar position and width is excellent for leverage, and the footpegs are decently located to help create a solid base for control inputs. This makes it far better than “sport” bikes for control in any ordinary street use.

- Steering response is okay. I prefer perfectly “neutral” steering, meaning that at a given lean angle the bike will hold that angle with no further input. Bikes like this feel eager to turn and are a delight in the corners. The NC with its stock tires has a tendency to want to stand up, so you are fighting the bike to a degree when cornering. I hope this can be solved with tire choice.

- Cornering stability is not a strong point. Some bikes can combine quick, light steering with a excellent stability. I’ve had many bikes with this quality, and they’ve generally been my favorite bikes to ride. The NC doesn’t have it. I hope tire choice will help here as well.

- Brakes are excellent. I can't see how anybody would see a need for a second front disc.

- Suspension is lousy. The front especially, which has awful response to sharp bumps and magnifies every little crease in the road into something far more jarring than it should be. Typical for a “budget” bike. This compromises feel in cornering and traction over imperfect surfaces. For cornering, good suspension is an important safety consideration. I do not trust this bike’s front end with the stock setup. Remedies will be required.

- The riding position stock is okay, but ride a dirt-bike, for example, and you’ll find the control relationships much better. Aerodynamics becomes a factor in road riding, and dirt-bikes are necessarily very tall, so some compromises on both points are reasonable, but it can be improved at least somewhat.

- Bottom line the NC is a nice-handling bike, but doesn’t match the effortless, virtually-telepathic feel of some I’ve owned. I hope some of this can be improved.

Appearance

- I think the NC is a sharp looking bike. I could nit-pick here and there, but I like it.

- Lots of problems with modern bikes come from sacrificing other qualities for style. The NC suffers from some of this:

- The seat is inexcusably bad. It should be wider, flatter and less contoured, with a larger surface area and more room to move around. What catches the eye in a showroom does not work well on the road.

- The fenders should have much better coverage in stock form.

- Complex, interlocking plastic pieces are just the way it is with most modern bikes, but I don’t have to like it, and I don’t. I would much prefer simpler disassembly, with fewer panels, attached with normal screws and bolts.

Electrical

- The headlight is above average. At first its chevron-shaped hot-spot on high beam looked oddly random, but I’ve realized that on a straight road, it perfectly follows the verges of the road, illuminating it quite evenly to an impressive distance. Lighting to the sides is okay. Low beam is good, but may be placed too low in relation to the high beam. I could do with a broader high-beam hot-spot. This would better illuminate hazards like deer right off the road, and would also make for a brighter day-time signal light to other drivers not exactly in your travel path, such as left-turners. As is, it’s an understandable and effective design. One note: with such a precisely-controlled beam, *any* change to the size or location of the light source, i.e. LED or other upgrades, is going to destroy the pattern and very possibly make the light less useful.

- I like the running lights in the front turn signals, which I think is very important for safety. I ride a lot at night, and the biggest danger is probably drivers misinterpreting the distance or speed of a motorcycle’s single headlamp. Some drivers have imperfect vision, some are in a hurry, easy to make a deadly mistake. The running lights make it much more obvious it’s a motorcycle and allow its approximate distance to be identified much more quickly and accurately.

- I’d like to get some sort of flasher unit for the brake light. My KLR has an LED version and I think it helps a lot with visibility from the rear.

- Love the various computer functions on the gauge cluster, but wish it would show more data at once. For example, one choice of odometer setting as well as one choice of mpg setting. Better yet, this plus total mileage always visible, as in almost any car or bike from the dawn of time ’till ten years ago.

- The instant-mpg readout only goes up to 99.9. Poor design choice when 85mpg is an attainable *average.* Almost any time I’m going downhill it just reads 99.9, which is not really providing useful information.

- My KLR gets 65-67mpg, which I’d always considered excellent. I never thought I’d have a full-sized bike that would do considerably better. My early impression is that it would be hard for me to get less than 70mpg on a full NC tank and easy to get 75mpg, despite riding the NC at much higher average speeds. Awesome.

Transmission

- Almost perfect gear spacing, possible exception of fairly large gap fifth to sixth. First seems neither too low nor too high. Sixth is nice and tall, perfect for high-efficiency cruising.

- Shift action is heavy. Maybe some break-in will occur. I need to focus more on shifts than on other bikes. I’ve found about a million false neutrals. I’m happy to accept responsibility for this on the basis that I’ve been spoiled by easier transmissions to use, and may have become lazy and undisciplined in my shifting. It’s still good; far better than some.

Conclusion

I’ve really, really enjoyed some of the few rides I’ve had on this bike. Despite the low miles there’s some normal suburban riding in there, a fair amount of twisty back-road riding, and some highway. Every bike I buy is an experiment, and I’m always surprised by which ones I get attached to. The NC has a lot going for it. At this point, I’m in.
 
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I like the review. Most people rate this bike based on other classes. Its a commuter bike that is also a little bit of a jack-of-all-trades.
A couple of things I agree with and a couple that I don't:
The stock seat sucks!!! I replaced mine with a Seargent Seat. The change is like night and day. One of two mods that I would recommend to anyone who buys this bike.
The stock windshield couldn't stop a light breeze on a summers day! I got a Madstad 20". Now I don't feel like I'm going to be ripped off the bike when I get on the highway.
Bike does have a nice look. I've been told it looks like a BMW GS1200R and I'm inclined to agree. Sometimes refer to it as my "baby Beemer".
The engine has nice torque but I would like to see just a bit more horsepower like the NC750's (Non-USA cousin) and a higher rev limiter.
I love the readouts. The colors were off-setting at first but once I got used to it, I can tell at a glance if I'm over/under rev'ing for the gear when I'm in manual mode. (I have the DCT model.)
The more I ride it, the more "IN" I am.
 
Glenn:

Great and thorough report.
Well thought out, good examples given, and elaboration at points to help others understand.

Most on here will go with a less expensive tire.
My thought is that is the main item between me and the road.
I ended up getting Metzler Tourance Next tires.
It was around $300 for the set without installation costs figured in.
These are now stock on the BMW R1200GS if I recall correctly.
I have found them to give me a lot more confidence in the rain and on curves.
I feel a good tire may eliminate one or two of your problem areas.

The shorter stock windshield does not bother me much because I love a clear view of the road and the scenery and I like the wind to a point.
I do not like a fairing on a bike due to making me feel I am in a small car with no weather protection.
And I generally ride highways on the NC just to get to the back mountain roads.

The nice thing about the NC is it is ready to go at a budget price.
Now you can slowly one by one make the changes with the parts you want to truly get the "Baby Beemer" from your NC at less than Beemer costs.
The only time I get less than 72 MPG is during the Winter months when I let the bike warm up a little more before pulling out.
And twice I have grazed over 81 mpg.

My thoughts.
Thanks again for the review.

God bless and ride safe!!

Michael
 
Suspension is lousy. The front especially, which has awful response to sharp bumps and magnifies every little crease in the road into something far more jarring than it should be. Typical for a “budget” bike. This compromises feel in cornering and traction over imperfect surfaces. For cornering, good suspension is an important safety consideration. I do not trust this bike’s front end with the stock setup. Remedies will be required.

Indeed. A lot of people address the rear shock first or only, but to me the front is overwhelmingly nasty and I barely can care about the back until that's taken care of.
 
Greenboy I agree, I've always felt the front is much more important, and it's usually cheaper to fix, as well.

Michael, thanks for the info on the tires. I've liked Metzler in the past. Also one of nicest-handling bikes I've owned was the R1100GS, which had beautiful steering. Haven't ridden the 1200 but my guess is any tire BMW puts on those bikes would probably suit me fine.

Techrat I tend to lean Corbin for seats, I've found them to be consistently good, though they do seem to have more quality issues than they should. I had a Sargent and Corbin "flat" seat for my KLR at the same time, and wanted to like the Sargent best if only because the Corbin weighs about a ton and a half, but the Corbin was much more comfy for me. So it's probably the safest first option to try. Keeping my eyes open for used just in case one pops up somewhere; if not I'll probably bite the bullet and buy from Corbin eventually.
 
I had Racetech front and rear done to match my size & loads, it made an amazing difference in ride and control.

It was not cheap, but I do not regret it at all.
 
Yes, emulators would be the obvious choice. I'd want to research which company to use. The springs feel okay, it's the damping that's off.
 
I thought the suspension might be better than my previous bike (2009 Ninja 650R) but riding to work on the freeway, the same expansion joints on bridges will cause my rear to pop up off the seat.
Does the rear shock adjust? I can't find anything in the tiny owners manual.
 
The rear shock is adjustable for preload with a set of threaded rings on the shock body. Damping is not adjustable.
 
I thought the suspension might be better than my previous bike (2009 Ninja 650R) but riding to work on the freeway, the same expansion joints on bridges will cause my rear to pop up off the seat.
Does the rear shock adjust? I can't find anything in the tiny owners manual.

I have exactly the same bump on a road I frequently ride.

It's not a very large bump but is sudden and fairly jarring in a car, or on another bike. On the NC it literally bumps me off the seat if I don't un-weight in anticipation.

This is not good.

While I think the majority of this bike's suspension problems reside at the front, your post reminded me that the rear shock is quite awful as well.

Unfortunately there is no easy fix. This is NOT a spring problem. It's a high-speed damping problem and an obvious indicator of a cheaply-spec'ed factory shock absorber.

The shock itself needs to be re-built, or replaced, with completely re-designed damping. High (vertical wheel) speed impacts need to "blow off" so that sharp bumps can be absorbed without upsetting the chassis. This is not rocket surgery, but it costs some money, and Honda wanted to save that money when designing our bikes, which is why we got them so cheap.

I've said it before here: the NC suspension as the bike is delivered is actually, potentially, dangerous. Some might think this is an exaggeration but I'll stand behind it. Sharp bumps in corners on a suspension like this risk catastrophic, un-recoverable losses of traction.

Not dissing the bike. Just be aware.
 
I can only say that the NC700 DCT is brilliant. I am not so sure about the manual version. In this size range the Suzuki V-Strom 650 seems to outperform the Honda and if I was required in some mythical universe to have a manual transmission I would choose the V-Strom because of all the innate comforts it has right out of the box compared to the Honda. I am talking about seat comfort, windshield in stock versions. V-Strom wins. Now if the V-Strom had a DCT version it would rip the heart out of Honda.
 
Had a chance to ride a DTC for a few miles today...

EEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWWwwwwwwwww!!!

I can't wrap my head around that.
I have ridden scooters and it doesn't bother me, but on a motorcycle. I hated it.
Not saying it isn't a superb piece of tech, but for me and how I like to ride, it takes away all the "motorcycle" out of the motorcycle.
My left foot was wagging there in the air, my left hand was all confused... If forced I could probably get used to it, but heading into a turn hot and I had zero confidence of what gear I was in or how the bike would accelerate out of the turn.
And even in sport mode, on a huge exit ramp circle the bike shifted 2 times when I did not want it to...

Oh well... that's why they make two versions! :D
 
It's funny... scooters are really a lot of fun, part of the reason for that is their CVT nature... yet most enthusiasts can't stand CVTs in cars. (I've yet to experience one).

And while I don't mind a good auto in a car, your description of the experience with the NC assures me I'd dislike it as well. (I definitely want control over what gear I'm in while going into, through, and out of corners).

Seems paradoxical.

I gather the DCT does have a manual mode that might make it satisfactory for cornering.
 
I loved the DCT while I was learning to ride. For the past 7 months or so I've had it in manual mode 99% of the time and love that. I control what gear I'm in and when I shift - I just do it with paddles and without a clutch. Seems that clutchless paddle shifting would be smoother/faster than clutch lever and toe shifter, but I know the debate rages.

I like the manual shifting and the option of letting the bike shift when in stop-and-go traffic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Had a chance to ride a DTC for a few miles today...

EEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWWwwwwwwwww!!!

I can't wrap my head around that.
I have ridden scooters and it doesn't bother me, but on a motorcycle. I hated it.
Not saying it isn't a superb piece of tech, but for me and how I like to ride, it takes away all the "motorcycle" out of the motorcycle.
My left foot was wagging there in the air, my left hand was all confused... If forced I could probably get used to it, but heading into a turn hot and I had zero confidence of what gear I was in or how the bike would accelerate out of the turn.
And even in sport mode, on a huge exit ramp circle the bike shifted 2 times when I did not want it to...

Oh well... that's why they make two versions! :D
A ride around the block is hardly enough time to know anything about riding DCT but after nearly 50 years of riding many kinds of motorcycles and over 50,000 miles on NC700s, I've had one manual and one DCT, I found I like the DCT version more than the manual. You do learn another set of skills to get the most out of it but it isn't for everyone. So I agree, that's why they make two versions :)
 
I loved the DCT while I was learning to ride. For the past 7 months or so I've had it in manual mode 99% of the time and love that. I control what gear I'm in and when I shift - I just do it with paddles and without a clutch. Seems that clutchless paddle shifting would be smoother/faster than clutch lever and toe shifter, but I know the debate rages.

I like the manual shifting and the option of letting the bike shift when in stop-and-go traffic.

I totally agree, because that's my situation now as well. I stay in manual most of the time, controlling gears with the paddle shifters. I realize not having a clutch lever means I lose some finesse (e.g.,feathering) but as a older new rider, I'm happy to trade it for the certainty of both always hitting the gear I want and not accidentally stalling at stoplights.
 
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I actually missed having a clutch today while at an intersection. I was in the left hand turn lane on a slight slope down, behind 5 cars, waiting for each one to turn. With a manual bike I would be feathering the clutch while inching forward, as each car took the turn. Then dropping the clutch and gunning it when my turn came.
This is one of the times where a manual has its advantages.

I also prefer having a clutch when pulling into the tight parking space (slot) between the front of my car and a wall. I have to be very careful with my throttle hand. One time I turned a bit, to avoid the wall and gave it a bit too much gas! Almost fell over.

I will experiment next time I ride but am I right about not being able to shift into N until stopped?
 
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