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A question for DCT owners

  • Thread starter Deleted member 1183
  • Start date
Today I pulled up late to a left turn signal at one of those intersections where you can only turn on a left turn signal light(which is never long enough to let more than 4 or 5 cars get through), so I turned my engine off, but waited until a car pulled in behind me in the the turn lane. With the engine off my brake light would be off.
The same thing might apply if you put your bike in N at a stop- you might take your foot or hand off the brake. And a lit tail light is part of the whole "See me, don't hit me" strategy.

One thing I do notice is that when starting up my DCT bike there's a tiny click and then it goes into neutral. But since it's not in gear when it's off- what's with the click? Not sure if it happens when I've used the kill switch versus just turning the key off on the last ride.
More like "if you are going to hit me I'm getting out of the way"

Try that with the engine off.
 
Today my retailer advices me to do so, always go in neutral before shutting down, he says that it can avoid electronic mess in the DCT algorithm.


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Today my retailer advices me to do so, always go in neutral before shutting down, he says that it can avoid electronic mess in the DCT algorithm....

It's impossible to change "algorithm" in a device like PCM. Any coded instructions are in compiled state.
Besides, Honda wouldn't risk destroying $1000(?) device because you'd have to use "kill switch".
 
I never seem to remember to put mine in neutral. I just turn off the key after I load onto the front wheel chock/holder. If I stop somewhere I forget and just put the side stand down and it turns off for me. (that is how you check the switch :p)
 
Agree. No need. Also, I have a 2016 and suggest using S2 mode most of the time. Love it! S has 3 modes to choose from.

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I suppose the question was motivated when I stopped the bike in gear and switched off the ignition. I then noticed that the rear wheel didn't spin easily and understood that there was the same affect as if the wheel was being spun on a manual in gear with the clutch held in. On my manual bikes I sometimes drop into neutral at traffic lights especially if they take a while. Does anyone know the life of a pair of clutches on these bikes ?

I haven't owned a bike long enough to answer to the longevity of clutch plates in DCT,
but this guy seems to explain the differences between manual and DCT clutch behaviours:
He starts talk of clutch longevity at 16:50
FYI: clutch slipping may be different btwn versions of the DCT: gen2 vs. gen3
[video=youtube;p07ZA_w-fFY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p07ZA_w-fFY&t=5s[/video]
 
On the odd occasion that I put it in neutral I'm liable to forget and then try to take off, rolling on the throttle while in neutral!

One thing the manual does warn against, don't hold the bike on a hill by giving just enough gas, use your brakes to hold your position and let the engine idle until it's time to go.

The DCT always goes to D mode no matter what mode it was in when you powered down.

Other gotcha's are:

- While riding you must close the throttle to choose between S1 S2 and S3, if the throttle is open if will only alternate between D and the S mode you're in.

- If for some reason your engines dies while you are at speed and you roll to a stop. Your bike will be in, lets say, 5th gear. When you turn on the ignition the DCT will not make it's way back to neutral, the bike will not start. The trick is to hold the front brake while pressing the start trigger. See this post.

By design, the DCT should put the transmission into neutral at every ignition ON.
On those occasions where the gears are 'stuck' in gear, you can
1. rock the bike back and forth to release the gear- if the gear indicator shows anything but 'N'
2. hold the front brake while cranking- if the gear indicator does show 'N"

.
FYI. if neither method works, even after cycling the ignition key,
you probable have an abnormal condition that requires shop service/troubleshooting.
 
I am very hard on clutch plates. I got about 50,000 miles on the standard NC 700 on clutch plates. The clutch plates are very easy to replace yourself.

I spent quite a good while talking to an unnamed Honda motorcycle engineer that I know from working for Honda for years. He told me that he believed that even someone as hard on clutch plates as I am, would get over 100,000 miles on the DCT clutch plates........ Reason is that you are not manually slipping the clutch plates as often on the DCT.
 
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