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Accessory fuse block add-on

dduelin

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I got around to wiring up the fuse block on my NC700X. Four circuits are available. The two circuits powered off it are the 12V Marinco power point and the power cable for the Garmin GPS. I like to use unswitched power for the GPS as I use it sometimes with the bike off. The power point is tucked into the left side of the open space above the battery. It is for occasional use to charge electronic devices or run my air compressor fixing a flat on the road. The power cord on the battery terminals is for the Gerbing heated clothing connector (yellow and red tags). It comes out under the left front edge of the seat for connection to the jacket/glove heat controller. The yellow wire off the battery powers the fuse block. The yellow wire coming out of the left side of the OEM fuse block is switched power taken off the power source for the optional relay. It takes 12V to the heated grip switch. I printed labels at work today for all the positive leads but they aren't shown in the picture.

IMG_8844.jpg
 
Where is the fuse block from? I had the big Blue Sea fuse box on my last bike with 6 or 8 outputs. I don't plan on needing that much expandability on the NC, only plan to add a circuit for heated gear, 12v outlet, and maybe heated grips. Something smaller like what you have there is just about right...

trey
 
Where is the fuse block from? I had the big Blue Sea fuse box on my last bike with 6 or 8 outputs. I don't plan on needing that much expandability on the NC, only plan to add a circuit for heated gear, 12v outlet, and maybe heated grips. Something smaller like what you have there is just about right...

trey
It's a Bussman Cooper ATC 15600-06. I think it was 12 or 13 bucks at NAPA. It is a 6 circuit block but slipped down behind that piece of wiring harness two circuit prongs are unusable. I know Blue Sea stuff from my boats and it is really good stuff but it is too large for the limited space I wanted to use.
 
It's a Bussman Cooper ATC 15600-06. I think it was 12 or 13 bucks at NAPA. It is a 6 circuit block but slipped down behind that piece of wiring harness two circuit prongs are unusable. I know Blue Sea stuff from my boats and it is really good stuff but it is too large for the limited space I wanted to use.

Cool, thanks for the info. The Blue Sea box was really good -- but like you say, just too large for what I plan to need on this bike.

trey
 
I got around to wiring up the fuse block on my NC700X. Four circuits are available. The two circuits powered off it are the 12V Marinco power point and the power cable for the Garmin GPS. I like to use unswitched power for the GPS as I use it sometimes with the bike off. The power point is tucked into the left side of the open space above the battery. It is for occasional use to charge electronic devices or run my air compressor fixing a flat on the road. The power cord on the battery terminals is for the Gerbing heated clothing connector (yellow and red tags). It comes out under the left front edge of the seat for connection to the jacket/glove heat controller. The yellow wire off the battery powers the fuse block. The yellow wire coming out of the left side of the OEM fuse block is switched power taken off the power source for the optional relay. It takes 12V to the heated grip switch. I printed labels at work today for all the positive leads but they aren't shown in the picture.

Dave, this is great information! Thanks. I have two accessories that I need to hook up. One is my Gerbing heated gear and I'll hook directly to the battery like you're doing. The other is my Garmin GPS. I prefer to have it switched so when I'm stupid and leave the GPS on when the bike's off it won't drain the battery. Any suggestions on the best way to connect it? Do I need a separate fuse box or can I use existing OEM circuitry? Simplest is best since electricals are not my strong suit.

Paul
 
Dave, this is great information! Thanks. I have two accessories that I need to hook up. One is my Gerbing heated gear and I'll hook directly to the battery like you're doing. The other is my Garmin GPS. I prefer to have it switched so when I'm stupid and leave the GPS on when the bike's off it won't drain the battery. Any suggestions on the best way to connect it? Do I need a separate fuse box or can I use existing OEM circuitry? Simplest is best since electricals are not my strong suit.

Paul
Paul,

How I did it most like will not pass muster of everyone but this is what I did. In the OEM fuse block is a location for the optional relay that is used (I think) for the Honda accessory outlet and heated grips. Above the optional relay location is a place for the 7.5 amp fuse used in conjunction with this relay. The fuse box cover has a diagram of what's what. This relay has 4 pins, spades actually, that fit into the fuse block. Two are arrayed horizontal and two are vertical so the relay only fits one way. One of these terminals brings switched power for the control circuit of the relay. Key ON - the relay gets 12V and closes so power flows to the device switched by the relay. I just needed the terminal that controls the relay. It's the upper right one looking directly at the fuse block. When the key is on this terminal is 12V hot and would normally power the relay. I took power out of this female slot by crimping a male spade terminal onto a fused wire led to the heated grip switch and clicking it into the female terminal. If you use a 6 mm male spade terminal you have to trim it down to fit the female terminal opening. A slot trimmed in the side of the fuse box cover leaves an exit for the yellow wire in the picture. I originally planned to use the relay and take power off the positive lead in the accessory harness but the relays I had in hand were micro but still too tall for the fuse box cover to close down on. Relays are cheap, even the Honda micro micro one is $5 or $7 but I since I never planned on using the Honda accessory harness for anything else I simply opted for the simpler solution.
 
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Paul,

How I did it most like will not pass muster of everyone but this is what I did. In the OEM fuse block is a location for the optional relay that is used (I think) for the Honda accessory outlet and heated grips. Above the optional relay location is a place for the 7.5 amp fuse used in conjunction with this relay. The fuse box cover has a diagram of what's what. This relay has 4 pins, spades actually, that fit into the fuse block. Two are arrayed horizontal and two are vertical so the relay only fits one way. One of these terminals brings switched power for the control circuit of the relay. Key ON - the relay gets 12V and closes so power flows to the device switched by the relay. I just needed the terminal that controls the relay. It's the upper right one looking directly at the fuse block. When the key is on this terminal is 12V hot and would normally power the relay. I took power out of this female slot by crimping a male spade terminal onto a fused wire led to the heated grip switch and clicking it into the female terminal. If you use a 6 mm male spade terminal you have to trim it down to fit the female terminal opening. A slot trimmed in the side of the fuse box cover leaves an exit for the yellow wire in the picture. I originally planned to use the relay and take power off the positive lead in the accessory harness but the relays I had in hand were micro but still too tall for the fuse box cover to close down on. Relays are cheap, even the Honda micro micro one is $5 or $7 but I since I never planned on using the Honda accessory harness for anything else I simply opted for the simpler solution.

Thanks for the quick reply Dave. I'll need to study this a bit closer since, as I said, I'm not proficient in motorcycle electrics. It may be that paying my mechanic will be my best option.

Paul
 
Dave,

Very nice setup, maybe a kit and instructions are in the future? For now I have ordered the Honda wiring harness and ect. for my gloves and vest.

Thanks ,wizzer
 
Looks like a great wiring job. Always nice to see things done the right way with fuses and nicely crimped connectors. Two thumbs up!
 
I used that same, 6 outlet, fuse panel on my previous two bikes but space was too precious on the NC so I opted for a 3-wire setup from Eastern Beaver.

It comes with a relay that I powered off the front brake light switch. They have two different versions of the 3-wire set-up: all through relay or with one wire that is hot all the time. I opted for the one with all three wires going through the relay.
 
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Fuzeblock.jpg

I decided on a FUZEBLOCK.

It takes a +ve and -ve feed from the battery and any switched +ve from anywhere you like (I used the dipped headlight feed) which brings in a 30amp on board relay. This allows any of the outputs to be either C - Continuous or S - Switched. All cables run in nylon braided flex with heat shrink ends. I mounted the Fuzeblock in the base of the Frunk on my 2017 NC750S where the manual's supposed to live.
 
View attachment 34959

I decided on a FUZEBLOCK.

It takes a +ve and -ve feed from the battery and any switched +ve from anywhere you like (I used the dipped headlight feed) which brings in a 30amp on board relay. This allows any of the outputs to be either C - Continuous or S - Switched. All cables run in nylon braided flex with heat shrink ends. I mounted the Fuzeblock in the base of the Frunk on my 2017 NC750S where the manual's supposed to live.

Tim, if you used the dipped headlight feed for your switched trigger, don’t all the switched accessories shut off when you switch your headlight to bright/high beam? Maybe your 2017 is wired differently, but on my 2012 with incandescent headlight, both headlight beams are never on together.
 
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I put a PDM on the NC. It fuses or relays my 2cameras with Recorder, an Charging/ax setup, heated grips, led lights. It has worked pretty good , I'm satisfied with it.
 
Tim, if you used the dipped headlight feed for your switched trigger, don’t all the switched accessories shut off when you switch your headlight to bright/high beam? Maybe your 2017 is wired differently, but on my 2012 with incandescent headlight, both headlight beams are never on together.

No - on the LED Headlight on the S the dipped beam stays on when the main beam is switched on. If you have an incandescent bulb headlight setup, you could use the side light feed.
 
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