Anyone put a new headlight lamp in ?

[L.B.S.]

LBS I couldnt help but notice in your pictures that the cyclops LED bulb lettering on the back (LED) is upside down. Mine is the same way because thats the way it fits into the front light housing. I kind of feel like the bulb is functioning upside down. The bright side of the bulb is facing below while the two low beams are on top. Any opinions on this?

It's something that makes my OCD twitch, having the LED letters upside down, lol, but any H4 housing I've ever had on a bike has been the same as far as the bulbs base orientation applies, so I'm at least relatively confident that all the Cyclops units have been configured correctly as far as any kind of "oops" in the design goes. There have been many sold on ADV, and all the install pictures show the same configuration (as far as the H4's go) and no fuss has been raised about the lights being incorrectly clocked that I could determine.

If the bulb was to be flipped so that the single LED faced up, and the two 60* facing LED's were "down", I do not know what that would do as far as low beam/high beam pattern effect. I wouldn't be convinced that the change would be for the better, neccessarily. The reflector may not at all be suited to direct the light in the proper places, if the LED's were rotated 180*.

I totally hear you though, as when I switch to high beam, the feeling really is that the low beam gets better, without the high beam changing noticeably...

 

[L.B.S.]

Link to that bulb? I'd like to get a spare bulb on hand before I need one. Might be a good idea to carry one with me all the time.
Is this bulb the same color/temp as the OEM?
My goal is to change the bulb and have the light that comes out be the same color as before...
brighter? sure, why not...
but NOT a different color.

As JDE says, if you do not want a colour change, then LED is definitely not for you. That is the single most blatant change there is, compared to halogen, the white light that makes anything with retroreflective paint go nuclear bright.

You have seen white things or that fluorescent glow from special paints, under black (UV) light? It's like that.

If you were to simply want better light without the dramatic colour shift, then I would recommend a 35 or 55 watt HID bulb, with it's temperature chosen down in the lower spectrum, close to a halogen colour output. (like 3500* - 4000* or so, give or take)

It's possible with the newer and latest/greatest LED options continuing to come to market, that the manufacturers could offer up more choices and have "warm white" or other gradiants available, if enough of a demand is seen, I'm sure.

 

[Brillot2000]

I just copied Brillot 2000 install, he always finds good stuff.

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THX!!! Being an Engineer and involved with LED Products has a lot to do with it!!!

I saw that you deviated from my recommended installation. It looks good though. More than one way to skin a cat as they say.

I've outiftted my RV with all LED Lighting and got over 90% of the house on them too now...

I recently outfitted my ST1300 with LED Headlamps too, ST1300 Installation Album.

 

[Brillot2000]

As JDE says, if you do not want a colour change, then LED is definitely not for you.

If you were to simply want better light without the dramatic colour shift, then I would recommend a 35 or 55 watt HID bulb, with it's temperature chosen down in the lower spectrum, close to a halogen colour output. (like 3500* - 4000* or so, give or take)

It's possible with the newer and latest/greatest LED options continuing to come to market, that the manufacturers could offer up more choices and have "warm white" or other gradiants available, if enough of a demand is seen, I'm sure.

As you mentioned, all light colors have a temperature that's measured in Degree of Kelvin (°K). Most LED Bulb Assemblies intented for headlight use are 5000 to 6000 °K. Take a look at the Visible Light Temperature Spectrum to get a clear understanding of the correlation between these numeric values..

Other colors that are of a single color component are measured by wavelength, typically measured in the nm (nanometers). Please take a look at this Visible Light Wavelength Spectrum to get a clear understanding of the correlation between these numeric values.

I hope that many of you find this information useful.

Time to put on some Pink Floyd and Rock Out!!!

 

[Rtreat49]

Got it changed today. Yes it was tight and took about an hour of struggling but less than removing plastic. Aligning tabs on the lamp and then hooking the clip took the most time.

 

[oakvilleadvisor]

What was the model number of the bulb

 

[Brillot2000]

What was the model number of the bulb

A standard Halogen bulb is either H4 or 9003. These are widely available from any automotive suppler or Wal Mart.

If you want a LED Unit, then there's many choices to choose from. You will have to your homework and find a source for it.

I'd recommend the one shown below.

 

[hojo]

I pulled off all my plastic to install my H4 LED Bulb, see image below. Also look at my Installation Album.

I did replace one standard bulb before, because I wanted a different light temperature. It was very tight up there to say the least.

Brillot2000: Where did you get the bulb, the one link that you had took me to Amazon and the bulb doesn't look the same as the one you put in. Is the bulb a dual 'filament', I'm wondering about a low and high beam, does the bulb fan get wet, and finally, does the LED driver come with it?

Thanks!

hojo

 

[Brillot2000]

Brillot2000: Where did you get the bulb, the one link that you had took me to Amazon and the bulb doesn't look the same as the one you put in. Is the bulb a dual 'filament', I'm wondering about a low and high beam, does the bulb fan get wet, and finally, does the LED driver come with it?

The unit that I got came from eBay, however it was not the unit that I order or was listed in the listing. The seller did a substitution and sent me that unit instead. This unit is very close to the one that I received.

I bought a set from Amazon that I put as a reference. I installed them into my ST1300, they work just the same.

These units are "Dual Intensity" come with the ballast/driver.

 

[Fuzzy]

Will those work with a modulator?

 

[hojo]

I see it is 48 watts, I was hoping for less with equal intensity a OEM.

 

[Brillot2000]

Will those work with a modulator?

I do not see any reason that they will not. You would have to try it.

If it does not work, you can always send the entire setup to me and I will find a solution for you.

 

[Brillot2000]

I see it is 48 watts, I was hoping for less with equal intensity a OEM.

All the bench testing of the units that I purchased ran about 2 Amps on both Low and High Beams. Yes, 48 Watts would be correct at the operating voltage of 14 VDC.

 

[agia]

...I've outfitted my RV with all LED Lighting and got over 90% of the house on them too now...

I did the same thing. Here's some of the lights I made for the RV. Now my battery lasts a long time when I'm dry camping. Inexpensive cool white LEDs from Fry's Electronics. Made my own plugs for the lamp socket.

 

[StratTuner]

reading this thread made me think....

I should really buy a replacement bulb... same as what's there.... and MAKE myself change it.
That way, I can hide a spare on the bike for that wonderful moment when the bulb really does go out.

"You fight like you train."
- Randy "Duke" Cunningham
Viet Nam Navy Fighter ACE

 

[Brillot2000]

reading this thread made me think....

I should really buy a replacement bulb... same as what's there.... and MAKE myself change it.
That way, I can hide a spare on the bike for that wonderful moment when the bulb really does go out.

LEDs are not for the fainthearted. Yes, they cost more to buy. However a good quality replacement LED Bulb will last the entire lifetime of the motorcycle. That’s where you get your investment back.

The cheapest thing on the motorcycle is the "Rider"...

 

[Brillot2000]

I see it is 48 watts, I was hoping for less with equal intensity a OEM.

Both my bikes that I installed these LED H4 Bulbs are far bigther than the standard H4 Halogen Bulb, see images below.

 

[L.B.S.]

I see it is 48 watts, I was hoping for less with equal intensity a OEM.

If you are referring to this:

CREE 60W 5200LM 5000K Car LED Headlight Kit H4 H13 9004 9007 Hi Lo DRL Lamp Bulb | eBay

Then realize that 48 watts is the combined low beam wattage for two bulbs, not one. "they" not "it".

Although those numbers even are a little bit wobbly, as the picture says only 48w 4400LM, but the description only says 60w 5200LM. It's easy enough to suss out that ends up meaning combined numbers for two units low and two high, but if you go down further, the specs show:




Each low now says 22w 4000LM 22+22 = 44w not 48w, and it's now down to 4000LM vs 4400LM.

I also giggled a bit at the "360* beam angle", lol

Regardless of my nit picking on the numbers though, I would trust Brillot2000's word on the efficacy of the light, if he is happy with it and recommends it.

 

[Brillot2000]

Regardless of my nit picking on the numbers though, I would trust Brillot2000's word on the efficacy of the light, if he is happy with it and recommends it.

THX!!! L.B.S. I'm glad that someone values my opotions and recommendations.

I only recommend these units that I have been for a simple reason. The LED Module can be easily removed from its adaptor plate. Other units might be a single “One-Piece Design”.

The separable unit helps considerably with the installation of the unit in the headlight reflector. You can install the adaptor plate, rubber boot and then the LED Module. The brightness of the units are right where they need to be and exceed the requirements by far. As I also mentioned before that light temperature/hue plays an important part in quality of the light it produces. 5000-6000° Kelvin is where you want to be in. The lower the temperature values are more a "Yellowish" light as these values decrease.

 

[hojo]

If you are referring to this:

CREE 60W 5200LM 5000K Car LED Headlight Kit H4 H13 9004 9007 Hi Lo DRL Lamp Bulb | eBay

Then realize that 48 watts is the combined low beam wattage for two bulbs, not one. "they" not "it".

Although those numbers even are a little bit wobbly, as the picture says only 48w 4400LM, but the description only says 60w 5200LM. It's easy enough to suss out that ends up meaning combined numbers for two units low and two high, but if you go down further, the specs show:

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Each low now says 22w 4000LM 22+22 = 44w not 48w, and it's now down to 4000LM vs 4400LM.

I also giggled a bit at the "360* beam angle", lol

Regardless of my nit picking on the numbers though, I would trust Brillot2000's word on the efficacy of the light, if he is happy with it and recommends it.

Oh, okay, so 48 watts for both or 24 watts for one bulb would give me an extra 26 watts to use somewhere else, I like that. But, doesn't it still only offer a single beam, or does it actually get brighter if you hit the high beam switch?