Easiest way to install multiple power ports on Bike

[fleetingyouth]

Hi all. Ive read a bunch of peoples USB and sub harness installations and it seems there are lots of ways to do this. Id like to combine several ports and do it in an easy clean fashion and the ways Ive seen for different ports in different locations have been well different.

Id like to have an SAE line out the back for a Tender or to power a GoPro. A USB port on the Handlebars for NAV and cell phone, possibly a 12v combo. A 12v port in the Frunk to run emergency things like tire pump.

I obviously dont need to have these being used at the same time. At most maybe powering a gopro and cellphone for nav on a trip. I dont think I would need them to work when the Bike is off.

Is this over kill maybe? Is there a cheap version of the sub harness that I could just plug all these into? Or maybe make some sort of relay box that then powers each of these?

I could easily install anyone of these from what Ive read but Im just not sure what approach is best for multiple Ports. Also if anyone has recommendations on parts or kits that are good but affordable thanks.

 

[itlives]

Eastern Beaver. This guy can help you but you would do yourself a disservice if you don't do some reading up on these things.
It's not hard, it just takes time and patience. Here's a link for you to start your new learning -

PC-8

 

[ColoradoRod]

I'm planning to add a few electrical accessories over the winter (non-riding) months. IMHO, the right way to do this is to add a new fuse panel. My fuse panel of choice is the Eastern Beaver PC8 mentioned above.

The PC8 requires a heavy ground wire to the battery, a heavy positive wire, a relay, and a switched trigger wire. The PC8 fusebox then gives you (I think) 3 unswitched fuse ports and 5 switched ports.

People hear that there's a relay involved and sometimes freak out thinking that it's too complicated for a non-electrical engineer to figure out. It's really no big deal. The relay takes an input from the trigger wire--in our case something that's switched on and off with the key in the ignition switch. There is also a heavy duty, high power wire connected to the relay. When the relay senses power on the trigger wire, it closes a contact inside the switch and powers a higher draw device--something like a heated jacket by allowing the heavy duty wire to make a connection with the heavy duty draw item--the heated jacket.

If you connected the high draw item directly to the ignition switch, there's a good chance you wouldn't have enough power and you'd start blowing fuses. By just connecting a trigger wire, there's almost no draw on the system so you shouldn't randomly blow fuses.

The cool thing about the PC8 fuseblock is that you connect one heavy duty ground and power wire and one trigger wire and you've got access to 8 new sources of power that each have its own fuse. Again, IMHO, *this* is how to do it correctly.

The other thing I'd like to do is make the entire installation removable by using OEM male and female connectors to tap into the system. Not that it's my trigger wire of choice (haven't really thought about it), but if I wanted to use the headlight as my trigger wire because it always comes on with the key, I'd try to find a male and female OEM jack and plug. I'd unplug the headlight, plug my pigtail into the headlight and then plug the headlight wire into my pigtail. I'd daisy chain my pigtail to give me a new port where I could plug in a lead for my trigger wire. Wanna remove everything for a sale? Remove my pigtail and associated wiring and just plug the headlight wire directly to the headlight. Bam.

If I ever come up with a solid plan, I'll be happy to share it with the group... Part numbers, sources, and all.

 

[JoeTx]

Eastern Beaver. This guy can help you but you would do yourself a disservice if you don't do some reading up on these things.
It's not hard, it just takes time and patience. Here's a link for you to start your new learning -

PC-8

Wish I knew about those before my install

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/how-to-s-/6064-how-i-installed-lights-horns-powerlet-jumper-cable-quick-connect.html

 

[Beemerphile]

Not that it's my trigger wire of choice (haven't really thought about it), but if I wanted to use the headlight as my trigger wire because it always comes on with the key,

Yes, it comes on with the key, but it goes off with the high beam.

The taillight stays on all the time, but instead of picking around and cutting / splicing wires, the Honda Option Relay and Option Harness is hands-down the cleanest and most reliable way to tap switched power. There is also nothing to un-do when you sell. Leave it for the next guy. From there, you can power your choice of power distribution modules (whether PC8, PDM60, Fuzeblock FZ-1, or whatever). I have the PDM60 on my BMW 1150 and the FZ-1 on my NC. They all work. For high amp removable loads (heated clothes, battery chargers, air pumps, etc., I use a chassis mounted Powerlet connector wired to the power distribution module.

Here is another source for wiring supplies (and a simple power distribution harness as well)...

Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

 

[itlives]

What does can/BUS mean?

 

[Beemerphile]

What does can/BUS mean?

Controller Area Network BUS. It is a communications protocol for modern vehicle systems.

 

[killarneygetaway]

Those of you that have mounted the PC-8 in the NC, where did you mount it and which harness kit did you opt for. I have been looking for something like this.

Thank you,
J...

 

[anglachel]

To the op:
The easiest way to accomplish what you are talking about IMHO:
Get a cheap combo USB/12V socket from amazon, thread the wires down to the battery, connect the wires to the battery. put the rest of the combo port on the handle bars.
Mine came with an in-line fuse so it would be an easy install (remove some plastic panels to make threading the wire down to the battery easier, and two bolts for the battery, and one screw to hold it on the handle bars.)

SAE connector can also go right to the battery, if you insist you need it in the back of the bike you can route it back up there, Mine came from the dealer with the plug dropped out in front of the battery dangling next to the engine behind a plastic body panel, worked decently well, though I moved it back to be above the battery and just undid the two screws to get to the battery when I Wanted to charge the bike.


The best way is probably a specialized fuse box that you add to the bike, and use the honda accessory harness to get switched power for it, and a direct tap to the battery for larger loads. But switched power isn't even close to the "easiest" way to do something... I don't find it hard at all, but I've been doing electrical wiring since I was a kid, and have the first few years of an electrical engineering degree... A challenge (meaning I'd need a pencil and paper) would be wiring up a logic gate using relays (something I've seen done in the automotive world for restored classic cars, a sight which confused me thoroughly, why they didn't just put in a simple IC for half the cost...)

If you go the "easiest" route... you can't leave anything plugged into the bike when you stop it, or it will drain the battery. You might want to consider getting a switched usb outlet as the DC/DC converter to get the 5v usb uses will drain the battery over a long enough time (I don't worry about it, I'm either riding regularly, or hooking the bike up to the charger when I'm not).

If you have a 12v socket on the handlebars you can hook up a air pump there, you can also hook up an air pump to the SAE connector if need be. You can also use the handle bar line with enough slack and just drop a wire into the frunk from the handle bars (check the slack full lock to full lock!) and close the frunk on the wire...

 

[fleetingyouth]

Thanks for all the info. I like the idea of the PC-8 but just dont have the cash for it right now. Maybe I'll run a 12v plug to the battery with a fuse and use a USB adapter to keep it from draining like suggested. Then when I have time I can upgrade the whole thing using the fuse box.

What kit did people go with? I have most the parts for the Kit so could save money there. What relay is needed if I made my own kit? Also what Fuse is needed for a 12v plug?

For my coming up trip all I really need is the 12v/usb so I think this is a good temporary set up. If I wanted to run colored LED lights for fun I could connect it to the fuse box as well I assume?