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Extreme Farkling - Circuits and controls

Beemerphile

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I have drawn up the control circuit and obtained the basic parts to power and operate the additional equipment. The heart of the system is the PDM-60 Power Distribution Module. I obtained it from Aerostich but they are available elsewhere. If you have used fused power centers before, have a look at the advantages that this unit offers. The greatest of which is that it has circuit breakers instead of fuses. If there is an over-current, you only have to turn the machine off, clear the fault, and turn it back on. No fishing for fuses. Even with the Honda supplied accessories, they rely on fuses. The heated grips even have a fuse tie-wrapped to the frame underneath the body panels. I have never seen a power distribution as elegant and compact as this. With only this, three DPDT control relays, an interconnecting harness, and proper terminations, it will be ready to go.

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The extra circuits are:

1) HID headlight ballast
2) Tesla LED driving lights
3) Dual (High/Low) Fiamm electric horns
4) Powerlet receptacle inside the storage box
5) Powerlet receptacle on body panel for heated clothing
6) Russell heated seat
7) GPS
8) Angel eye CCFL ballast

CONTROL LOGIC:

In addition to simply powering loads and protecting circuits, there is logic as follows:

A) The Tesla LED's will have a bar-mounted on/off switch. When the switch is "on", the LED's will operate with the high beam switch. When the switch is off, the LED's are disabled. Each Tesla LED is fed from its own 5 amp circuit in the PDM-60.

B) The HID headlight will "wake up" in Angel Eye mode when I start the bike. It will be running, along with the marker lights in the front turn signals. When I select the high beam, the Angel Eye will go out and the HID burner will light. Thereafter, if the low beam is selected, the HID will go to low beam instead of back to Angel Eye. The only way to resume Angel Eye is to shut the bike off and re-start it. This is done to prevent short-cycling the HID by un-trained operators.

c) The Fiamm horns are relayed because they draw more current than the stock horn. There is no new logic. The original horn circuit operates the coil of the horn relay which provides power from the PDM-60 to each horn.
 
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Very cool! Can't wait to see it all complete when you get done with this round of farkling and get the bike back together, before the next round begins..:D

My goal is always to do it all at once, though I haven't accomplished that yet.
 
Very cool, Lee

The Fiamm horns are relayed because they draw more current than the stock horn. There is no new logic. The original horn circuit operates the coil of the horn relay which provides power from the PDM-60 to each horn.

I have a set of FIAMM AM80 Hi-Low horns in the garage, but I will fit only the Low one. My plan was to just replace the stock unit, no relay. Now after reading your comment I'm not so sure. Do you think I need the relay if I'm going to install just one of the horns?
 
Very cool, Lee



I have a set of FIAMM AM80 Hi-Low horns in the garage, but I will fit only the Low one. My plan was to just replace the stock unit, no relay. Now after reading your comment I'm not so sure. Do you think I need the relay if I'm going to install just one of the horns?

I don't know what amperage the stock horn draws, nor do I know the amp rating of the horn switch itself. That is usually the first thing to go if you overdrive the circuit. The Fiamm low draws 4.8 amps. I can look at the fusing in the manual and se at what level the circuit is protected. Even with one horn, I wold be inclined to use a relay, but that is just me.
 
Apparently there is a "new and improved" version of the PDM-60 power distribution module compared to the item that I got from Aerostich. You might want to talk with these guys before you buy the one that I used. I have had no problems with mine and have been using one on my BMW for several years, but the new version has some improvements and better flexibility than the unit I have...

Home | Rocket Moto: Sena Bluetooth, Clearwater Lights, Autocom
 
I have been busy finding places for all of the electrical doo-dads associated with my farkling. There is lots of void space under the skin, but it isn't apparent where it is with the bike stripped. I had to temporarily reinstall the left side plastic in order to map out the voids and place circuitry items. I am using industrial velcro for the various black boxes and relays and sticking them to the inside of the skin. That way I can remove them without unwiring them when the body panels need to be subsequently removed.

I didn't like the fragile wiring on the high beam solenoid...

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So I "hardened" it a bit with larger wire and connectors...

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The wiring to the Angel Eye ballast also needed hardening...

DSC00619.jpg
 
Some people keep the original halogen bulb connector in case they have to "go back" to it. Not being the smartest person in my age group, I have always felt that the way ahead is best illuminated by the burning bridges behind me. Go back? Harumpff! So I got rid of the bulky right-angle halogen connector that didn't fit nicely in a wire bundle and replaced it with a 3-wire .110 Molex connector...

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The PDM-60 power distribution module will be happy here. All that is needed to uncover it is to remove the very easy left fake air duct. In owning one of these for awhile, I haven't found a need to look at the cute indicator lights. I didn't want them visible from the riding position, butI didn't want it buried three layers deep either...

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The HID ballast is velcroed to the inner skin of the left center cowling...

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CCFL (Angel Eye) ballast and high beam relay are velcroed to the outside of the battery shroud...

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The entire wiring bundle was routed in-between the fork legs so that it won't get flexed when the bike is turned...

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Hi Lee, it seems to me your last post suffers again the previous issue with image attachments, can't see any picture
 
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