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Fork Extension Install How-To Video for the NC700X

Ponyperformance8

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Good afternoon!

As requested, I have put together a go-by video for the install of Fork Tube Extensions for the NC700X. These are avaliable here at the bottom of the page. fork extensions I used the 1 inch 41MM extensions and I am quite happy. This is a good mod to consider if you are running a taller tire like the Shinko 705 up front and want to make sure that you have enough clearance between your front radiator and raised-up front fender.

Enjoy !

[video=youtube_share;yvFG0GaWMV8]http://youtu.be/yvFG0GaWMV8[/video]
 
Thanks for the video! I learned.....a lot. But then, I'm petty much an empty vessel -lol.
I was just looking at another thread and saw where Garaptta is. I used to live in Monterry. Hope to go back to Cali within a year.
Hope your "Get out" is successful.
Thanks again!
 
Thank you for the video. You won't need this suggestion now but if you loosen both sides of the fork clamps with a jack supporting the weight of the front of the bike under the oil pan you can use the jack to set the height of the fork tubes in the clamps. Both tubes will slide up or down in the clamps together in perfect alignment as you lower or raise the jack in small increments. No pushing or pulling on the individual fork tubes.
 
Also, I've found it makes life easier if you initially crack loose the fork caps/final tighten with the bike still on the ground, on the side stand. The weight of the bike helps with the forks not swinging side to side and/or needing to secure the front wheel when torque is applied the caps.

Once the caps are loose, if you carefully lift the front end of the bike up with a jack juuust high enough to ensure the front tire is not touching the ground, then the caps can come off/reinstall by hand, and there is no spring pressure from below, making them difficult or launch capable, lol. :D
 
Does this help with the seat slope :)
Depending on how high the extensions are. The rake is 27 degrees so that factors into the raise. I've already done the slope mode but want the bike a little higher. My inseam is 34".

Thanks for the comments. Good advice!

Question- with the 1" extensions on and on the centerstand, will the back wheel still be off the ground? If so, I wonder the same about a 2" extension?
Anybody?
 
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Depending on how high the extensions are. The rake is 27 degrees so that factors into the raise. I've already done the slope mode but want the bike a little higher. My inseam is 34".

Thanks for the comments. Good advice!

Question- with the 1" extensions on and on the centerstand, will the back wheel still be off the ground? If so, I wonder the same about a 2" extension?
Anybody?


Depending on the tire profile (ie: sidewall height) 1" should allow the rear wheel still off the ground a little bit. 2" I'm not so sure.

With a front tire tall enough to need a fender raising, that suggests it might be a close call, especially if not on a perfectly flat, hard surface.
 
Keep in mind a 1" longer fork alters the steering geometry by increasing rake and trail which slows down the steering. This makes the bike more stable in a straight line and less eager to turn. Many of us wouldn't notice the change from 1" longer but 2" longer would be likely be very noticeable.
 
I am curious about this mod for the same reasons as dduelin. My first instinct with this particular motorcycle would be to raise the rear suspension to maintain quicker steering and indeed I have on two occasions added preload to the shock spring to good effect. My instinct is that an extension of this magnitude on the front of the bike, will affect the handling adversely. I would be particularly worried about it in the wet ?
 
I am curious about this mod for the same reasons as dduelin. My first instinct with this particular motorcycle would be to raise the rear suspension to maintain quicker steering and indeed I have on two occasions added preload to the shock spring to good effect. My instinct is that an extension of this magnitude on the front of the bike, will affect the handling adversely. I would be particularly worried about it in the wet ?
I understand the reason for the 1" mod.....those that mount larger 130 series front tires and raise the fender to clear the bigger tire need a little more clearance for the fender/fork/radiator interfaces. 1" shouldn't be a handling problem but when the conversation went to 2" that might be something else.

I had the opposite need. When I raised the front ride height about 5/8" by reducing fork sag and did not want to slow the steering at all I raised the fork tubes in the clamps and raised the rear ride height to try and preserve the original rake and trail.
 
I didn’t notice a difference in steering from the 1” fork extension. The type of tire dose make a noticeable change. The 130 Shinko is slower than the stock size PR3s. In fact the TKC80 is faster than the Shinko.
 
Keep in mind a 1" longer fork alters the steering geometry by increasing rake and trail which slows down the steering. This makes the bike more stable in a straight line and less eager to turn. Many of us wouldn't notice the change from 1" longer but 2" longer would be likely be very noticeable.
Thanks for that. I didn't think about it. I just want the bike a bit taller.
 
Thank you for the video. You won't need this suggestion now but if you loosen both sides of the fork clamps with a jack supporting the weight of the front of the bike under the oil pan you can use the jack to set the height of the fork tubes in the clamps. Both tubes will slide up or down in the clamps together in perfect alignment as you lower or raise the jack in small increments. No pushing or pulling on the individual fork tubes.


I can see how that would work too !

One thing I think you would want after this install, a side stand extender and/or widening plate !
 
With the Larger Shinko tire.. No.

With a smaller tire, maybe. As far as seat height, I have a 32-34 inch inseam and I do notice the difference in the bike. I am a little more on my toes now.
 
I understand the reason for the 1" mod.....those that mount larger 130 series front tires and raise the fender to clear the bigger tire need a little more clearance for the fender/fork/radiator interfaces. 1" shouldn't be a handling problem but when the conversation went to 2" that might be something else.

I had the opposite need. When I raised the front ride height about 5/8" by reducing fork sag and did not want to slow the steering at all I raised the fork tubes in the clamps and raised the rear ride height to try and preserve the original rake and trail.


How did you go about raising the rear ride height ? is it factory adjustable ?

Between the larger front tire and the extensions I have noticed some slower steering response especially at higher speed.
 
How did you go about raising the rear ride height ? is it factory adjustable ?

Between the larger front tire and the extensions I have noticed some slower steering response especially at higher speed.
The rear ride height is determined by how much the shock sags under weight of bike, rider, and cargo. On the shock is a pair of threaded rings. The upper one is a lock ring and the lower one bears against the spring. Turning them up or down with a ring spanner changes the "preload" on the spring and increases or decreases the amount of sag. In your case you could regain some or all of the original steering geometry by screwing the adjuster ring down and increasing preload.

Measure sag first to get a benchmark setting for comparison after changes to preload or a spring swap. Race Tech's site of FAQs has a method of measuring sag as good as any. I use a plastic batten taped vertically to the swing arm and make tick marks on it for Max L and L1/L2/L3. I note where the batten is against a spot on the bike directly above the axle. Distance between the tick marks gives the L figures. Same for the fork...tape the batten to the lower fork leg and measure the L figures against the bottom edge of the lower clamp.

FAQ
 
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The rear ride height is determined by how much the shock sags under weight of bike, rider, and cargo. On the shock is a pair of threaded rings. The upper one is a lock ring and the lower one bears against the spring. Turning them up or down with a ring spanner changes the "preload" on the spring and increases or decreases the amount of sag. In your case you could regain some or all of the original steering geometry by screwing the adjuster ring down and increasing preload.

Measure sag first to get a benchmark setting for comparison after changes to preload or a spring swap. Race Tech's site of FAQs has a method of measuring sag as good as any. I use a plastic batten taped vertically to the swing arm and make tick marks on it for Max L and L1/L2/L3. I note where the batten is against a spot on the bike directly above the axle. Distance between the tick marks gives the L figures. Same for the fork...tape the batten to the lower fork leg and measure the L figures against the bottom edge of the lower clamp.

FAQ

Awesome advice, I will get on this immediately. Didnt know how easy it was !
 
Hi, you seem to know a lot about the NC... I'm wondering if you can help me with the front wheel instillation. After lifting the front tire in place with both Side Collars on each side, I inserted the Axil through. But when I tighten the Axil rode to the otherside (Fork), I'm getting uneven spacing along the side Collars. Depending which way I move the wrench, I get different spacing at the sides of the Collars. If I tighten one way, I get space by one of the side collars. If I loosen the Axle bolt, I start getting space by the other side collar. What am I missing? How do I get both sides to flush with the Fork. Note I haven't replaced the break caliper yet. I was gonna wait to do that till the wheel was in place. But, should I put back the Caliper first before trying to tighten the wheel? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
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