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Front axle removal. 700x

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max cooper

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I want to remove the front axle on my 700x so I can have a new tire mounted. The owner's manual states that new bolts should be used to remount the caliper. I assume Honda would like us to use their OEM bolts ? Also, what type and size and brand of tool do I use to remove and reinstall the front axle ? Can anyone give me an idea regarding what brand of torque wrench I should purchase ?
Any help is appreciated , as always. Max
 
The only time I had the front wheel removed I also removed the forks and re-used the caliper bolts when I put it back together. I did use Locktite on the bolts, but I haven't had any problems with the caliper mount.
Personally I went the cheap route and got my torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. Not exactly Snap On quality, but they actually seem to be more than accurate enough for anything I've done to the bike. I'm pretty sure the 3/8 inch drive had the correct range of torque settings for all the front wheel fasteners, but you probably should check to make sure. For example, If the torque wrench settings go from 5 to 80 foot pounds, they generally work best from around 15 to 70. At least that's been my experience.
You'll also need a 17 mm hex wrench (AKA Allen wrench) for the axle bolt. Harbor Freight also sells a 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive set of hex sockets for around $12 and the largest hex in the set just happens to be 17 mm. That's the one I use.
Outside of that, I think the rest of the removal and installation just calls for the tool sizes included in most basic wrench and socket sets.

Hope this helps,
Bob
 
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max cooper said:
I want to remove the front axle on my 700x so I can have a new tire mounted. The owner's manual states that new bolts should be used to remount the caliper. I assume Honda would like us to use their OEM bolts ? Also, what type and size and brand of tool do I use to remove and reinstall the front axle ? Can anyone give me an idea regarding what brand of torque wrench I should purchase ?
Any help is appreciated , as always. Max
Click to expand...

This is one of the torque wrenches I have although I have not used it on my bike. Bought them for my jeep. Its a little expensive but pretty good quality for the price.

Amazon.com: Park Tool Ratcheting Click Type Torque Wrench: Sports & Outdoors

I would always use new bolts on anything that has a torque rating. I'm probably not telling you something you don't know but when a fastener is torqued the bolt is stretched. Over torqueing stretches it even more which is why it is a really good idea to use a torque wrench. At Caterpillar it is policy to never reuse a torqued bolt but some bolts on those machines are torqued to 800Nm.

This is two identical bolts. One unused and the other over torqued.

stretched bolt.jpg
 
Max i got my tork wrench at harbor freight in Mansfield.works great for the bike.

sent from my nc700x
 
Excellent ! Both of these responses help a great deal. I have a Harbor Freight not too far from my town of Wellington. Snap on and Sears is a short drive as well. The info on bolt stretching when over torqued is a real eye opener. Never would I have thought one could do that to a bolt. So I learned new things again, on this forum. THANK YOU !! Max
 
I am sure this is posted somewhere else on the form. For the 17MM alan head. You may use a bolt with a 17mm head. If you go this route, thread two nuts on the opposite end, from the head, and tighten them. A better solution would be to weld a single nut at the end. You might thread the nut and drill through the nut and bolt then insert a roll pin. It is not elegant like a real 17mm alan tool, but effective.
 
I would always use new bolts on anything that has a torque rating. I'm probably not telling you something you don't know but when a fastener is torqued the bolt is stretched. Over torqueing stretches it even more which is why it is a really good idea to use a torque wrench. At Caterpillar it is policy to never reuse a torqued bolt but some bolts on those machines are torqued to 800Nm.

I never realized manufacturers like Caterpillar didn't re-use fasteners. I know bolts with seriously high torque requirements should be one use only, but the caliper bolts on the NC seem to be torqued to about the same value as other bolts on the bike which have no recommendation for replacement. Actually, I had assumed the reason Honda recommended replacing the caliper bolts was the type of thread locker they pre treat the bolts with. FWIW the last hardware system I worked had specified torque requirements for almost every fastener and the technicians that did the hands on maintenance and preparation re-used most of the bolts. There were some that were one use only, but the majority were re-used. They were serious about making sure they were properly torqued however. The torque wrenches were calibrated and tested with a torque verifier both before and after each job. Kinda strange to find out that Caterpillar has more rigid hardware handling requirements than the Space Shuttle did. :)

Bob
 
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Spaceteach said:
Kinda strange to find out that Caterpillar has more rigid hardware handling requirements than the Space Shuttle did. :)

Bob
Click to expand...

I like your last statment. LOL. In all seriousness. I have worked for Caterpillar for about 7 years. All new assemblers have to go to assembly training for a week. At least they did at my facility. They spend a lot of time on fasteners. Their two big key words are "loose & leaks". Anyway, I believe the catch phrase is "best practices" but without a doubt people are told that if they torque a bolt (every bolt on a caterpillar machine is torqued) and the bolt has to be removed, it is replaced.

I guess Caterpillar does has higher standards. Sorry to take this back off topic.
 
The correct answer to the query on replacement of the caliper bolts is of course as stated above by various members. Replace them.

However, I have been removing calipers from my bikes for cleaning and wheel change purposes for years and not once have I replaced them. In all those years I have never had a problem. I fully understand the stretching and torque settings etc. However I have never seen a bolt stretched like the one in the shot above. I have no doubt that the gentle torque used on the brake calipers of a bike is not in the same league as the torque used on that bolt. Furthermore, I believe those Honda bolts are seriously expensive. Just some thoughts.
 
I have never had to remove the calipers to take a wheel off before....is that an NC thing?

Also,I have never had to use new bolts on a caliper before - but if that is what the manual says it is probally for good reason.

The bolts are $3.00 each x 2. So $6 bucks for piece of mind? Wonder why. Never had to "per the manual" change a bolt that had been torqued on any other motorcycle I have worked on.

I inspect every bolt once removed of course and use or replace as deemed needed, but replace every bolt? If I tear the engine all the way down for an overhaul that could get exspensive.

2012 Honda NC700X AC FRONT BRAKE CALIPER (NC700X) | Cheap Cycle Parts
 
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I doubt the caliper bolt needs changed. I'm just have a habit of replacing bolts on key items. Brake being one of those. Something holding on plastic would not be a concern. I was really just trying to point out what over torqueing can do. I've restored several old Pontiac Firebirds over the years and I believe my service manual had an area where it broke down the non-reusable and reusable parts. I don't have a service manual for this bike. Does Honda do that for the NC?
 
SergeantChuck said:
I doubt the caliper bolt needs changed. I'm just have a habit of replacing bolts on key items. Brake being one of those. Something holding on plastic would not be a concern. I was really just trying to point out what over torqueing can do. I've restored several old Pontiac Firebirds over the years and I believe my service manual had an area where it broke down the non-reusable and reusable parts. I don't have a service manual for this bike. Does Honda do that for the NC?
Click to expand...


It has little pictographs and arrows delineating the parts/fasteners requiring replacement and/or lubing, thread lock compound etc., but I don't know if there's a compendium somewhere in the manual at a specific place.
 
I don't think replacing those caliper bolts every time you take the caliper off is necessary. In the manual I am sure every bolt has a torque spec, but that doesn't mean every fastener should be replaced if it's removed. That only really applies in torque-to-yield scenarios, where the bolt is purposely stretched. When one of those puppies has to come out, it needs to be replaced. Anyone familiar with Ford 6.0 diesel engines will know what I'm talking about. I very much doubt that you'll find any tty bolts on bikes.
If the bolt is obviously damaged, by all means replace it, but otherwise put a dab of blue loc-tite on it and call it done. When it comes to over-torquing bike bolts, I think you stand a better chance of ruining the female threads than the actual bolt. Steel vs aluminum, steel wins every time.
 
Mike Cash said:
If the aggravation I had getting the caliper back on again is typical, there's no way you'd be in doubt of whether you had done it or not; you'd remember.
Click to expand...

My cursing was related to the front fender reinstallation, specifically the evil little bushings that didn't like being held in captivity. Man alive they put up a great fight :eek:

I took the pads out of the caliper, so getting it back on was no sweat obviously, but admit to being irked trying to get the inboard pad to pop back in the first few blundering attempts, as my need to use reading glasses ends up being a huge pain under more and more circumstances, I continue to discover. Sucks getting old.:(

My bike was on the centre stand, and I couldn't get the wheel off without removing the caliper. Possibly if the front of the bike was further up, and fender off, you could pull the wheel forward and down? Dunno.
 
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