Fuse block/box

[anglachel]

So I'm building my wish list for the motorcycle, cause the deal I had with my wife means I get a budget for the motorcycle for non-safety related items (i.e. windscreens, seats, lights, bars, luggage, etc.) starting Jan. 1.

It's far too small of a budget, and my wish list is far too large... but in time I'll get there.

BUT in looking at my dreams, one of the earlier piece that I would like is a mount for my phone so I can use the GPS navigation (and a bluetooth headset to I can hear it) while on the bike.

A mount for the phone means a port to plug in the phone. There are many out there I'm looking at something like this right now:
Amazon.com: Motorcycle 12V Cigarette Lighter USB Power Integration Outlet Socket splitter: Car Electronics

Now I've wired up aux lights on just about every car I've owned, hooked up radios, added aux ports for radar detectors in the dash, and spent the better part of 2 years attending classes at college for electrical engineering. I understand how to connect wires, use heat shrink tubing, diodes, capacitors, resistance, impedance, etc. So the basics are well covered here, but what I need is the fuse box.

I know alot of people use the honda wiring harness for a starting point, but looking at my dreams, and looking at the number of connections on the honda harness, I think I'm going to want something more flexible in the long run.

I considered a fuzeblocks and I'm still not entirely turned off on the idea, but the implimentation is a bit lacking. Namely 10 amps max per circuit. Now I don't plan to install anything with massively high draw, but I went out and looked at the draw on a full set of heated gerbing gear (jacket, pants, gloves, socks) just to get what my high end draw would be (seems like heated gear would be some of the highest draw I would put on the bike) and I came out with a need for a 15 amp fuse...

So with my dreams of an aux port on the handlebars for my phone, and an aux port in the frunk, lights, potentially heated gear, and who knows what other dreams may come up (Aux/upgraded horn, additional lights, passenger heated gear?) I want something that can handle more than just 10 amps per circuit, at least for a few circuits, even though most of the time all of the circuits wouldn't be on full blast at the same time.


So, I'm looking at options for a fuse block/box, something with switched circuits (relay on board) I'm not terribly worried about unswitched circuits (I can only think of one thing I'd put unswitched and that would be on a delay-off timer so as to not risk draining the battery, and if need be I can wire that through an inline fuse). Probably half dozen circuits, and something that will give me a fairly clean install (because I could just do inline fuses and build a rats nest of them in the battery compartment, but that just sounds like a nightmare to maintain, and more connections just leads to more problems.)

Anyone have a fuse box, that meets these requirements? Or any suggestions for a setup that might?

 

[DanH]

Actually, the Gerbings stuff, and I assume most other heated gear, comes with an inline fuse that wires straight off the battery so you don't need to worry about that piece of the puzzle.

TwistedThrottle has a fuse box for motorcycles too but I am not sure of the amperage on the circuits.

 

[dduelin]

This is how I did mine.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/733-accessory-fuse-block-add.html

 

[Old Can Ride]

This is the unit I have run on my NC700 handlebars sense last January. It is a 15 amp fuse system built in, not a 5 amp. It hooks directly to the battery. I run my iphone off this plug the entire day, then before calling it the night I lock my laptop into the frunk and plug it into the handle bar plug. I am on the road camping out at times for a few weeks, and this system has never run down my battery, nor gave me any problems. Keeps every thing, including my interphone intercom system charged.

 

[Wcmike]

Sounds like you are talking about that dream machine known as the pdm60. It is a little too expensive for my needs but it seems to cover what you are looking for. The docs for it show 6 lines and you can configure each line for a max amperage draw and it's own delay on and delay off. It has a circuit breaker instead of fuses.

I'm adding a new set of horns (relay) and maybe a set of fog lights. Add in my two power outlets like OCR's, and I could use something myself.

 

[Old Can Ride]

The fog lights are easy to add to the head lights. Wires are exposed up front so easy to get to. Wire into low beam and they work perfect. Work off the breaker (fuse) for the headlight that way. Most folks just change to the PIAA horn, that is an unplug old horn, plug in new horn simple operation. The PIAA horn is loud enough to wake up the dead.

 

[L18flyboy]

Sounds like you are talking about that dream machine known as the pdm60. It is a little too expensive for my needs but it seems to cover what you are looking for. The docs for it show 6 lines and you can configure each line for a max amperage draw and it's own delay on and delay off. It has a circuit breaker instead of fuses.

Adding a fuse box on the NC700 and my KLR has been on my todo list for a while, and I've been looking at the other offerings out there. But somehow I had not stumbled on to the PDM60 before. That is pretty slick... thanks for mentioning it!

 

[anglachel]

Sounds like you are talking about that dream machine known as the pdm60. It is a little too expensive for my needs but it seems to cover what you are looking for. The docs for it show 6 lines and you can configure each line for a max amperage draw and it's own delay on and delay off. It has a circuit breaker instead of fuses.

I'm adding a new set of horns (relay) and maybe a set of fog lights. Add in my two power outlets like OCR's, and I could use something myself.

That sounds fantastic... except for the price, and the 10 minute max on delay off for circuits (would like something more like an hour or two, so I could have a plug for charging up the bluetooth on the helmet after I get off the bike, but I guess some compromises have to be made)

Twisted Throttles offering also seems like it would get the job done.

 

[dduelin]

The fuse block I used handles 6 circuits to up to 30 amps each which is far in excess of any normal requirement. Just size and fuse the power supply wire appropriately for the expected loads. It's ten bucks, not one hundred and and ten. You can power it switched or unswitched as you prefer.