General question about the clutch

[andrem]

Hey all!
I wanted to play with the clutch, to get it to grab in an area that's more suited to my tastes but I'm afraid that I've messed up somehow.

Basically, I need to know how to make sure that the clutch disconnects properly so i'm not changing gears with it still being connected or even worse, driving it when it's not fully connected!

I've put the bike in gear, with the clutch in, and tried rolling it (on a flat surface) and feel a bit of resistance compared to with it being in neutral - but that's to be expected?

Just want to make sure my clutch isn't slipping at all.

 

[670cc]

For the sake of this explanation: Connected=engaged=lever out. Disconnected=disengaged=lever pulled in.

It is far worse to drive with the clutch partially disengaged than to shift with it engaged. In other words, if you adjust your cable too tight, that can cause a slipping clutch and premature wear. To be sure the clutch is fully engaged with the lever out, look down at the actuator arm on top of the clutch cover on the right side of the engine/transmission. The arm should be loose, indicating that the cable has gone slack. Experiment with the cable tension and how it affects this arm and you'll see what I mean. It's possible to over tighten the clutch cable such that the actuator arm is not relaxed.

The owner's manual may (the service manual does) specify a slack dimension at the clutch lever, to ensure there is sufficient free play in the cable and actuator.

Having the clutch engaged when you shift is not as big of a deal. Some people shift without the disengaging clutch at all by backing off the throttle momentarily.

 

[andrem]

For the sake of this explanation: Connected=engaged=lever out. Disconnected=disengaged=lever pulled in.

It is far worse to drive with the clutch partially disengaged than to shift with it engaged. In other words, if you adjust your cable too tight, that can cause a slipping clutch and premature wear. To be sure the clutch is fully engaged with the lever out, look down at the actuator arm on top of the clutch cover on the right side of the engine/transmission. The arm should be loose, indicating that the cable has gone slack. Experiment with the cable tension and how it affects this arm and you'll see what I mean.

The owner's manual may (the service manual does) specify a slack dimension at the clutch lever, to ensure there is sufficient free play in the cable and actuator.

Having the clutch engaged when you shift is not as big of a deal. Some people shift without the disengaging clutch at all by backing off the throttle momentarily.

Yeah, the actuator has got some slack, a little bit, but it still has some slack. But is that all that's enough to make sure it's fully engaged?

I really do wanna avoid wearing the clutch out and also, like I said, should rolling the bike with a gear in (and clutch lever pulled in ofc) feel different than with the bike in neutral?

 

[670cc]

Yep.
If the actuator arm fully relaxes, you're not too tight and not slipping your clutch.

The clutch has some drag even when fully disengaged. The bike will always roll with more resistance in gear with the clutch disengaged than it would in neutral.

 

[andrem]

Yep.
If the actuator arm fully relaxes, you're not too tight and not slipping your clutch.

The clutch has some drag even when fully disengaged. The bike will always roll with more resistance in gear with the clutch disengaged than it would in neutral.

And by fully relaxes you mean that it goes back to the "furthes back" position when releasing the clutch? Because I can push the arm a bit further back when I adjust it to have a bit more slack.

But i'll check it out later and try to adjust it to that "perfect setting".

Thanks.