How I installed: lights, horns, powerlet, jumper cable quick connect

[JoeTx]

First, many many thanks to those who posted before me: Brillot2000, ddulin, Bamamate, Beemerphile without their help this install would have not gone as smooth as it did.

First soldering, I used no crimped fittings for this install, everything was soldered and here is how I solder:


Fray the ends and twist a strand of wire around to hold it together tight


Solder

Dab of hot glue

Slide heat shrink over while glue is soft and heat

Lug that I made

Jumper for horn install


Necessary tools: work holder and loupes

Horn Install: I found the horn install the most challenging, finding a mounting solution was most troublesome when out of no where I noticed a welded nut on the frame that had nothing connected to it, don't know what's it for, don't care. And to my amazement there was on on the other side!




I had to slide the horns in from the left hand side because of their size

Right side

Left side
I attached them with some bolts I bought at the auto parts store: Dorman 980-216


From previous posts I knew already that I would have to use the connections at the old horn, I ran 2 wires along side the O2 sensor cable over in front of the battery to the left of the bike, all relays were to be there, I put the wires in a housing I bought at Fry's.

I attached a fused (7.5amp) power supply to the positive battery terminal for the horn and lights, used a separate one for the powerlet.

All my relays were going to be placed near the accessory outlet in the frunk, now for the connection:


Left it loose to test my connections and when satisfied soldered it all together.

Powerlet: I wanted a separate high amp accessory outlet for air compressor and such and wanted keyed with a relay so I could not accidentally leave something plugged in and drain the battery.



Right under the Honda accessory is the main ground for the bike I used it for all the grounds. (negatives-)

Lights: I basically copied Brillot2000 light install, 2 10w LED's, bar mounts (ADVmonster), Senke Design Intelligent Lighting Controllers they were powered from the same source as the horns
simple, simple install, the Honda accessory kit included both a keyed source for power and an extra high beam connection, the honda shop manual has a fantastic schematic










Low Beams High Beams

Jumper cable connector: Ordered my jumper cables from CV Supply on ebay bolted right up to battery and my favorite negative connection super easy and never have to worry about a jump, alas no soldering






Before After

 

[silverhound]

Nice work. That should all hold up pretty well over time.

 

[StratTuner]

wow... excellent photography. Well done on all the wiring.

 

[VE258]

nice! but lot of work. i wouldn't do it. too lazy . those horns look pretty small. will they fit inside side cowls? one probably can mount them on that black metal frame?

 

[JoeTx]

View attachment 17352nice! but lot of work. i wouldn't do it. too lazy . those horns look pretty small. will they fit inside side cowls? one probably can mount them on that black metal frame?

That was my first choice, out front somewhere, but they're huge. Was just going to bolt them to the cross bar of my SW motech engine guard till I found those fittings. That front cowl looks promising but once again those rascals are big!

 

[L.B.S.]

Wow! Fantastic work!

Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to post up all the great pictures and step by step, Joe. I know how that can be very tedious, when all you want to do is finish the darned thing

 

[VE258]

we have 2005 Mercedes e320 and looks like there is a 420 hz single horn. sounds really nice(at least to me) and loud. most likely will fit NC's OEM place and probably no relay required

2000-2006 Mercedes S500 Horn - Body Electrical - Vemo 00-06 S500 Horn - 6452-01160846 - PartsGeek

bosch is a bit more expensive,but same hz

05 2005 Mercedes E320 Horn - Body Electrical - Bosch - PartsGeek

probably can be found on junk yard,but they won't give it to you for free anyway.

i was thinking about installing one instead of OEM. kind of lazy way around weak oem horn
just a thought.
yours would look awesome under the hood of any car. thru the grill.

 

[Mikee3544]

Nicely done!

What is the power consumption of the horns? I just replaced mine with a single alarm siren, uses about 10W.

 

[JoeTx]

Nicely done!

What is the power consumption of the horns? I just replaced mine with a single alarm siren, uses about 10W.

LOL- 66w @ 5.5a I placed a 7.5a fuse for the lights and horn.

 

[JoeTx]

we have 2005 Mercedes e320 and looks like there is a 420 hz single horn. sounds really nice(at least to me) and loud. most likely will fit NC's OEM place and probably no relay required

2000-2006 Mercedes S500 Horn - Body Electrical - Vemo 00-06 S500 Horn - 6452-01160846 - PartsGeek

bosch is a bit more expensive,but same hz

05 2005 Mercedes E320 Horn - Body Electrical - Bosch - PartsGeek

probably can be found on junk yard,but they won't give it to you for free anyway.

i was thinking about installing one instead of OEM. kind of lazy way around weak oem horn
just a thought.
yours would look awesome under the hood of any car. thru the grill.

Thanks, yeah this install was a lot of work, crimp connections would have been a tad quicker that's why I saved up and did all my electrical at one time.

 

[Brillot2000]

First, many many thanks to those who posted before me: Brillot2000, ddulin, Bamamate, Beemerphile without their help this install would have not gone as smooth as it did.

First soldering, I used no crimped fittings for this install, everything was soldered and here is how I solder:

View attachment 17324

Fray the ends and twist a strand of wire around to hold it together tight

View attachment 17327
Solder

Looks Good!!! I personally prefer using crimp contacts for all my electrical contacts.

 

[bigjeff]

fun ripping these bikes apart isn't it?

 

[JoeTx]

fun ripping these bikes apart isn't it?

Yes it is !! Actually getting all geared up, or farckled up to go on some runs with OCR.

 

[Brillot2000]

fun ripping these bikes apart isn't it?

I've doing at least 4-5 times already. I am pretty much can do it blindfolded and in my sleep.

 

[BerndM]

Hey JoeTx
Great pictorial. Thanks!! I will be using this posting for some of the things I want to do to my bike in the near future.
Just ONE little tiny recommendation to avoid some really upsetting and embarrassing moments when using your great soldering technique.
Unless you really, really like doing things twice.....ALWAYS remember to slide your heat shrink sleeve over one of the wires BEFORE soldering everything up. It continues to surprise me how this is such an easy step to overlook!
It is a major PITA to have to cut or unsolder the nice connection you just made to install the heat shrink.
DAMHIK
Thanks again!!!

 

[JoeTx]

Hey JoeTx
Great pictorial. Thanks!! I will be using this posting for some of the things I want to do to my bike in the near future.
Just ONE little tiny recommendation to avoid some really upsetting and embarrassing moments when using your great soldering technique.
Unless you really, really like doing things twice.....ALWAYS remember to slide your heat shrink sleeve over one of the wires BEFORE soldering everything up. It continues to surprise me how this is such an easy step to overlook!
It is a major PITA to have to cut or unsolder the nice connection you just made to install the heat shrink.
DAMHIK
Thanks again!!!

Your welcome, Yeah in some of the photos there was no heat shrink I think I was trying to show the technique. BUT always always have the heat shrink on before you solder and up out of the way, those wires become hot too.

 

[anglachel]

Looks Good!!! I personally prefer using crimp contacts for all my electrical contacts.

I too prefer crimping, keeps the wire flexible and less prone to breaking during vibration, not to mention faster and easier (With the right tools... a hammer is not the right tool, nor is a pliers or channel lock.)

But to each their own, a quick Google suggest that crimp vs. solder can be a just as heated of a debate as any oil thread... Also that NASA has a standard for
"CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES,
HARNESSES, AND WIRING"



Either way the install looks very nice. Quality craftsmanship is always appreciated, even if it isn't the way I'd do it. (though that should have been implied with the word "quality" )

 

[Old Can Ride]

"Also that NASA has a standard"

Thought this a little weird, Joe Tx lives just out side of NASA gates, and works in Clear Lake where NASA takes its real human mistakes.

I ride some in the dirt, and have now re-done the wiring on my Givi running lights four times. Like anglachel, I like the crimps, but for the dirt next time I solder.

Also, see Joe Tx has put on some dirt riding foot pegs.

 

[JoeTx]

"Also that NASA has a standard"

Thought this a little weird, Joe Tx lives just out side of NASA gates, and works in Clear Lake where NASA takes its real human mistakes.

I ride some in the dirt, and have now re-done the wiring on my Givi running lights four times. Like anglachel, I like the crimps, but for the dirt next time I solder.

Also, see Joe Tx has put on some dirt riding foot pegs.

Funny you should mention this, I got this technique from a NASA site, this is the only approved method for soldering NASA allows. Just getting ready for WABDR with those pegs, been practicing those videos you posted.

 

[kpinvt]

Way off topic.

Thanks a million! I didn't even make it past the part about using hot glue at the beginning. I've been trying, not too hard, to think of a way to make the frame of my clics glasses (ClicMagneticGlasses.com FREE Shipping on Clic Readers & Sunglasses) stickier so that the shrink tubing I've been using to hold them together after they break won't slide off. I'm trying this after I get home from work. Now to go back and read the rest of your post.