pahondafan
Member
What did you mean by this? Are you saying that the DCT has power braking and the non DCT doesn't? Please don't show me another schematic; I'll take your word on the answer.
How robust is the NC's alternator for powering heating clothing?
- Thread starter ld_rider
- Start date
What did you mean by this? Are you saying that the DCT has power braking and the non DCT doesn't? Please don't show me another schematic; I'll take your word on the answer.
mike5100
New Member
IIRC the C-ABS that was fitted to my 700X DCT was a simplified version and it operated the front brake when the back brake was pressed but not vice versa.
Mike
ste7ios
Member
We don't have this advanced hi-tech version, but the older Combined ABS described in another section of the links above...
pahondafan
Member
That might explain why the front wheel locks up so easily as I am going down the hill of my gravel driveway.
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I'm of the opinion that any further how many Angels can dance on the head of a pin/dalliances into the nitty gritty of ABS brake operation in this thread would be best suited to continue elsewhere, if wanted.
How the ABS electrics could potentially effect the ability to get the mosty toasty goodness of LDRider's heated jacket and gloves etc., to his chilled nether regions without possibly draining the battery, not withstanding.
How the ABS electrics could potentially effect the ability to get the mosty toasty goodness of LDRider's heated jacket and gloves etc., to his chilled nether regions without possibly draining the battery, not withstanding.
Fuzzy
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133 miles today. Temps in 30s. Snow flurries and wet. Gerbimg gear on max setting. Spot lights on whole way. DCT still changing gears when I finished.
ld_rider
Elite Member
Today in the 40's in SA and went for ride with tourmaster heated jacket on 3/4 - 100% heat, and I also have LED driving lights and the meter stayed in 2 green lights other than when under 2000 rpm and then only one green light and i have extra lights in the rear and Admore brake and turn signal lights (very bright can see bright in daylight) ... Feel confident that other than in stop and go would never see less than two green lights (max charging) .
Well update, added heated gloves and turned up the heat and the one green light stayed on at anything above idle but second green light would go on and off and on even at 65 (3600 rpm) at 72 (4100 rpm) the second green light would stay on most of the time but would drop for a second or two then come back on. My experience may not be one to judge by as I shorted my stator out for 400 miles when I let the stator wire get between the front sprocket cover and the engine. They said it might be AOK or it might go out prematurely or not produce as well as before. Being cheap I did not replace the stator ($500.00 + labor). I feel I will replace it before I go to Alaska in May. The lights stayed 2 green almost always until I added the heated gear. Heated gear sure made 37 degrees at 73 mph toasty but I did not have turned all the way up. Sure got a lot of looks from gages I passed, they just knew I had to be crazy on a motorcycle in 37 degrees..... Did not have any Harley riders to wave at nor were any parked out in front of the Bars I passed. Still was fun riding the X even if it looked like the Pillsbury Dough boy was on top of the X.
Well update, added heated gloves and turned up the heat and the one green light stayed on at anything above idle but second green light would go on and off and on even at 65 (3600 rpm) at 72 (4100 rpm) the second green light would stay on most of the time but would drop for a second or two then come back on. My experience may not be one to judge by as I shorted my stator out for 400 miles when I let the stator wire get between the front sprocket cover and the engine. They said it might be AOK or it might go out prematurely or not produce as well as before. Being cheap I did not replace the stator ($500.00 + labor). I feel I will replace it before I go to Alaska in May. The lights stayed 2 green almost always until I added the heated gear. Heated gear sure made 37 degrees at 73 mph toasty but I did not have turned all the way up. Sure got a lot of looks from gages I passed, they just knew I had to be crazy on a motorcycle in 37 degrees..... Did not have any Harley riders to wave at nor were any parked out in front of the Bars I passed. Still was fun riding the X even if it looked like the Pillsbury Dough boy was on top of the X.
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Naked_Duc
Member
Chiming in with some real-life results.
I have been running with Oxford heated grips and Cyclegear heated jacket liner. With the grips set to 50% and liner at medium, the bike did fine to keep up. I was able stay warm down to 30F. HOWEVER, when I threw in a charger for a phone (Nokia Lumia 920), things got out of wack. I had the phone charger plugged with the grips on in the city. All is fine. When I got on the freeway, I turned on the jacket liner. The liner would stay on for a minute or 2, then the controller would go haywire and then shut off. I kept riding for awhile (65 mph). I turned the liner back on, it would again stay on for a minute and the shut off... When I tried to turn it on immediately (I was getting cold), the liner wouldn't turn back on...
The liner started working again when I unplugged the phone (up to 50% charged). Thoughts?
I have been running with Oxford heated grips and Cyclegear heated jacket liner. With the grips set to 50% and liner at medium, the bike did fine to keep up. I was able stay warm down to 30F. HOWEVER, when I threw in a charger for a phone (Nokia Lumia 920), things got out of wack. I had the phone charger plugged with the grips on in the city. All is fine. When I got on the freeway, I turned on the jacket liner. The liner would stay on for a minute or 2, then the controller would go haywire and then shut off. I kept riding for awhile (65 mph). I turned the liner back on, it would again stay on for a minute and the shut off... When I tried to turn it on immediately (I was getting cold), the liner wouldn't turn back on...
The liner started working again when I unplugged the phone (up to 50% charged). Thoughts?
hojo
New Member
Naked_Duc: You didn't give the info we really need; how are the heated grips wired, how is the jacket wired, and, I doubt the phone had much to do with it but humor me, how is it wired?
I have an extra fuse panel installed via a relay (so that everything that is wired to the fuse panel gets it's power from the battery and not from another source like the headlight).
I have Dual Star heated grips, Gerbing Jacket and Gloves (haven't used my pants and socks this year so far), and I've tested the grips on HIGH and the heated jacket and gloves set at 100% power and at speed, my volt meter reads 13.6 compared to 14.3 without anything extra turned on. If my memory serves me, I did come to a stop (idle) and the volt meter said I was still charging the battery and not discharging. I highly recommend if heated gear is used, add a (digital) volt meter directly to the battery to know exactly the condition of the charging system.
I have an extra fuse panel installed via a relay (so that everything that is wired to the fuse panel gets it's power from the battery and not from another source like the headlight).
I have Dual Star heated grips, Gerbing Jacket and Gloves (haven't used my pants and socks this year so far), and I've tested the grips on HIGH and the heated jacket and gloves set at 100% power and at speed, my volt meter reads 13.6 compared to 14.3 without anything extra turned on. If my memory serves me, I did come to a stop (idle) and the volt meter said I was still charging the battery and not discharging. I highly recommend if heated gear is used, add a (digital) volt meter directly to the battery to know exactly the condition of the charging system.
Wanderer
Elite Member
I have a digital voltmeter on my bike so can see exactly what's happening as I ride down the road with my electric vest & GPS turned ON.
paprides
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Bingo! I've got one of these plugged into the power outlet in the frunk. Easy to flip it open, grab the lead and check the voltage - and yes i've done this while wheels are turning.
Digital Voltage Indicator with LCD Display
http://www.batterytender.com/PN-081-0157.jpg
Here's an interesting thing:
The voltage reads *slightly* different when I plug it directly to the battery (where my electrically heated jacket liner is powered) than via the frunk power outlet.
I'll let the experts tell me why as i don't give it much thought.
City Rider
Site Supporter
I've wired and tested my NC for use of heated gear. I own Firstgear heated jacket (90W), gloves (15W each) and socks (8W each).
After completion of wiring I've tested the alternator while idling the engine at max heat output with jacked and gloves connected.
Granted, I did not have turn signals on or the radiator fan running, but I believe that the alternator can take the load. BTW, I've used the same gear last season on my CB300F which has 350W alternator output (and only one cylinder). I've a voltmeter running when using a heated gear. My CB needed slight throttle input at stoplights in order to keep the voltage above 13V.
Here is my setup:
1. Battery harness:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LB49I3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Tourmaster controller:
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-M...3721666&sr=1-1&keywords=tourmaster+controller
3. Panel female coax:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AC6Z5GQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll add another panel female coax before fall hits so I can run either gloves or socks separately from the jacket.
This is how the setup looks like:
The panel coax is committed upgrade since I ended up drilling into the bodywork. However, it's convenient since I just have to plug in the jacket (or gloves, socks) into it and go.
The heat controller is portable one, but it sits nice underneath the handlebar and it's easily reachable.
Here is the volt reading at idle with 120W of load from heated gear:
Yep, it was 85F during the test, but I managed to keep the jacket on for 1 minute before taking it off. The NC idled for 5 min with constant volt reading of 13.9V.
After completion of wiring I've tested the alternator while idling the engine at max heat output with jacked and gloves connected.
Granted, I did not have turn signals on or the radiator fan running, but I believe that the alternator can take the load. BTW, I've used the same gear last season on my CB300F which has 350W alternator output (and only one cylinder). I've a voltmeter running when using a heated gear. My CB needed slight throttle input at stoplights in order to keep the voltage above 13V.
Here is my setup:
1. Battery harness:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LB49I3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2. Tourmaster controller:
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-M...3721666&sr=1-1&keywords=tourmaster+controller
3. Panel female coax:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AC6Z5GQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'll add another panel female coax before fall hits so I can run either gloves or socks separately from the jacket.
This is how the setup looks like:
The panel coax is committed upgrade since I ended up drilling into the bodywork. However, it's convenient since I just have to plug in the jacket (or gloves, socks) into it and go.
The heat controller is portable one, but it sits nice underneath the handlebar and it's easily reachable.
Here is the volt reading at idle with 120W of load from heated gear:
Yep, it was 85F during the test, but I managed to keep the jacket on for 1 minute before taking it off. The NC idled for 5 min with constant volt reading of 13.9V.
I ran my heated grips, pants and jacket last Sunday morning for about an hour ride on the freeway at dawn. All off them little over half on, I have the warmnsafe ones and a lithium battery. No problems at all, also had the high beams on. I should attach a volt meter and check for sag though.
mike5100
New Member
If your heated grips are the Honda originals, then they function as a primitive voltmeter - the light on the grip begins to flash of the voltage drops too low.
I too use Warmnsafe socks, pants and jacket. Plus Honda heated grips and heated gloves. Benn doing this through 3 winters on 3 different NC bikes and never had a single problem. I'm guessing the latest one 2016 bike - is likely to be better as it uses LED lights front and back.
Mike
I've actually got the 2012-2015 heated grips on mine, took a gamble and bought them on sale before the 2016's were available. They work, as does all the other electrical bits to wire them up.
I don't see the fancy dashboard graphic or have 5 levels of heat. Just the led button and 3 levels.
Old Can Ride
Active Member
Heated gear does not draw enough to affect the electrical system.
mike5100
New Member
I think it could OCR, if it was drawing it's max rated power and you were cruising most of the time at 3000rpm.
Mike
Mike
TN Thunder
Site Supporter
I just run the heated gloves. Everything else is body heat and I ride from 25 degrees F. and above.
