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Never had this ever happen

Craigmri

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Guys,

Took my NC out for a short ride(3 miles) and didnt realize I had like no air in my rear tire. Since I got the bike I routinely check the air before any ride out of my neighborhood and almost never have to add air. If I do I need a couple of psi.

So I roll the bike back into my garage and put on center stand and check the tire with a fine tooth comb for a nail or screw....NOTHING! So I check air pressure(10psi) and fill to 42 PSI and spray the entire tire down with simple green looking for bubbles.

This is what I found:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCL2QENVNA

Never had a leak at the bead on a tire thats been in use for 4500 miles. There is no wheel damage whatsoever.
 
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That sucks. If it were mine I would probably let all the air out of the tire and break the bead right in that area of the leak. I'd inspect for something on the wheel causing issues. Clean the area, apply some silicon on the bead, and then fill it back up with air. I'm a cheap bastard so I would try that before taking it anywhere. Doesn't seem like a tire with that low of miles should be causing you any problems. Hopefully a few of the experts give you some better advice.
 
If it were mine I would probably let all the air out of the tire and break the bead right in that area of the leak. I'd inspect for something on the wheel causing issues. Clean the area, apply some silicon on the bead, and then fill it back up with air.

Second what Sergeant said.
 
Same thing happened to Doc Wells bike when he was at my shop a few weeks ago. We broke the bead, cleaned the wheel with simple green and a scotchbrite pad. The lubed it and reseated it. There was not much contamination on it, but it doesn't take much. Tire sealed fine. No need for bead sealer goop and such as that. Just clean and lube it.
 
Same thing happened to my NC's rear tire. I broke down the bead, dismounted the tire and cleaned the rim with a wire brush and simple green. There was some gunk (extremely sticky) in 3 to 4 spots around the rim.
 
I found some gunk/corrosion on the inside edge of my rear rim when I replaced my tire last month. It looked like it bubbled the finish on the rim. Took some fine grit sandpaper to it to smooth it out. The rear tire always lost a couple psi over the course of a week. Now it holds steady.

Sent from a Speak & Spell wired to a record player, a saw blade, a fork, and an umbrella.
 
I had the same thing happen to mine. Just did what others have done. I had some debris in there. Cleaned it up and reseated the bead and it was fine until needing a new set of tires.

Sent from a WALKIE TALKIE using Morse Code
 
I also have a similar problem. Rear Tire seems to loose about 2lbs per day. It's interesting that several of us have had a similar problem, and it's always with the rear tire. A possible reason, I have thought off, is that when we are lubing and cleaning our chain we are getting some junk on our tire which then spreads to the bead of the tire. For those of You that had the bead leaking problem. was the leak on the side of the chain or the other side?
 
I have seen this happen a few times, and it does not discriminate my manufacture, model, or anything else I can figure out. Just clean every thing, and reinstall. There is no rhyme or reason to it.
 
Another good reason to change your own tires. I always use a scotch brite pad to scrub the bead sealing area before mounting a new tire. Many/most dealers don't take the time to do this and that leads to slow leaks. Don't use sandpaper like crocus cloth or wire brushes because the iron will cause corrosion on the aluminum wheel.

When reseated the bead, don't use any oily lubricant (like silicone) because you could spin the tire on the rim when utilizing the massive torque of the NC700. ;) Okay, maybe there's not that much torque, but this is a real concern on high power bikes so don't get in the habit. Dishwash soap works for lube, but I prefer the Napa Auto goop that's made for that purpose (which I'm drawing a complete blank when trying to think of it's name). These lubes won't leave a slippery surface that could cause tire slip on the wheel.

Added on edit: Napa RuGlyde
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Lubricant-Tire-Mounting-RuGlyde/_/R-BK_7652434_0361072076
 
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I use Ru-Glyde or the NoMar paste for lubricant. The NoMar paste has the advantage of not drying out as quickly especially in hot weather. Also you can easily buy it in less than a double-lifetime supply quantity. Ru-Glyde is the defacto standard lube that most pros use. I agree with Harald's suggestion to avoid silicones, hydrocarbons, metal brushes and sandpaper. If you remove the powdercoating (or paint or whatever it is) you may also find you have a porous wheel.
 
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I use Ru-Glyde or the NoMar paste for lubricant. The NoMar paste has the advantage of not trying out as quickly especially in hot weather. Also you can easily buy it in less than a double-lifetime supply quantity. Ru-Glyde is the defacto standard lube that most pros use. I agree with Harald's suggestion to avoid silicones, hydrocarbons, metal brushes and sandpaper. If you remove the powdercoating (or paint or whatever it is) you may also find you have a porous wheel.

Ru-Glyde here also.It's all I have used for about 10 years,I dismount/mount about 5-7 tires a year and have never had a issue.


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I also have a similar problem. Rear Tire seems to loose about 2lbs per day. It's interesting that several of us have had a similar problem, and it's always with the rear tire. A possible reason, I have thought off, is that when we are lubing and cleaning our chain we are getting some junk on our tire which then spreads to the bead of the tire. For those of You that had the bead leaking problem. was the leak on the side of the chain or the other side?
Same here as well. On my NC, it was the "other side" and near the valve stem.
 
When I return from a business trip in late October I will mark the spot on the wheel and tire, disassemble and inspect for a possible reason. Since I'm going through the labor to remove and since the tires have 4500 miles on them and are cupping and the rear is squared off alot, I will install new Conti-motions I just received yesterday.
 
When I return from a business trip in late October I will mark the spot on the wheel and tire, disassemble and inspect for a possible reason.

Beware that bead leaks can be like roof leaks in that the source of the leak may not be where the evidence is. You may not find much evidence, and the blame could be the tire, the wheel, or the combination. Simplest thing is to give the entire bead a good scrubbing and re-lube with proper tire mounting lube. If you are installing new tires, then thorough cleaning of the bead areas should be SOP. I also make it a practice to replace the rubber tire valves with each new tire. I know a guy on the BMW boards who was traveling with his wife and she had a rear flat. He determined it to be a tire valve that had separated between the rubber and brass of the stem. He left her on the side of the road and scouted out an auto parts store for a tubeless stem. After a troublesome roadside repair of breaking the tubeless bead and installing the valve, she went a few hundred yards and pulled over again and told him it was still flat. Guess what? It was the front valve this time! Same song, second verse.

With new tires: clean the beads, install new valves, check the wheel bearings and brake pad thickness.
 
It happened me on a GL1800. It almost ruined a holiday for me as I was losing pressure every day. I never thought of looking at the bead. Tried everything else though. When I got home I brought the wheel to the person who fitted it. When he took it off there was a small piece of surplus rubber from the casting preventing the bead from sitting properly. He removed that and problem solved.
 
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