Parking brake noise.

[drdubb]

Parking brake noise..no, rear brake

I heard some noise from the rear brake, so when I got home I gave the calipers a quick look. The disk looks a little chewed up and when I rotated the wheel a metal on metal sound comes from the parking brake. No, I didn't ride with it on. I have a 2014 for with 5200 miles.

I'll take the calipers off and see what's going on.

 

[drdubb]

Got around to working on the brakes today. When I pulled the pads on the rear brake...there was NO material on one pad, like it had separated. The other pad had plenty of material, but had severe cracks. The disk is scarred up too.

 

[Grey1one]

That would do it.

 

[drdubb]

Forgot to mention, New bike from dealer in April, 5 k miles.looks like one pad delaminated.

 

[ChuteTheMall]

I wonder if the dealer will cover it under warranty, or claim it's a "wear issue."

Good thing it didn't happen far from home.

Please post updates.

 

[drdubb]

I'm very disappointed. I also had the rear tire that showed wear bars at 2000 miles. I think I'm going to use Galfer or EBC brake pads from now on.

 

[Jelly]

On such a new bike with low mileage like that, I'd say that is DEFINATELY a warranty claim, I wouldn't settle for anything less.

 

[showkey]

Who will say what everyone is thinking..............would not be the first time the bike that was driven with the parking brake on or partially on.

As for the rear foot brake........once the parking brake trashed the the rotor rear foot pads took their toll ????

 

[Saturday Morning]

I guess there is no harm in calling but my crystal ball tells me that they will offer at most a pro-rated warranty on the brakes that will equate to roughly a $2 value all while they charge 1.5X or more for the same parts that can be found anywhere else or online for much less. Brakes are easy and cheap. I'd skip the dealer here and do it myself.

Best of luck,
-Saturday

 

[drdubb]

No joy at the dealer. Asked for a Honda contact...they don't have one....said to check owners manual.

The service writers think I had a stuck caliper piston, but it easily went back in for me. The other culprit might be too much fluid, The guide pins seemed dry to me. I'll work on it tomorrow. Galfer said they wouldn't have the rotor until the end of the month so the plan is....

1. Smooth the rotor as best I can,
2. Install new OEM pads.
3. Contact Honda and express my displeasure.
4. Order the Galfer rotor and pads later in the month and install same.

 

[showkey]

Drdubb, One question .........any mods ? Like bark busters or bar risers ?

 

[drdubb]

Yes...both. I rerouted the line and slide the master cylinder in to keep slack in the line.

Good question....you thinking that is causing the brake to drag?

 

[ST13Fred]

Sorry to hear about the brake issue.

I've never tried driving off with the park brake on, but it appears to hold fairly tightly and I probably would notice it on, right away. Also, a red dash light would be on.......any red or yellow dash light is a warning.
I've never had a pad on ANY vehicle come apart; they are riveted on and would require an abnormal shear load to fail.
Once a rotor is scarred because of metal to metal contact, a new pad is going to wear very quickly. I would be buying a new rotor, as it appears you will. Disc thickness: 4.8 - 5.2 mm. Service limit: 4 mm.
I assume it was the piston side that failed. Pump the piston out (but not too far), clean it, put a small amount of brake fluid on it, clean/lube the pin. Good luck.

I've got 2500 miles on my 2013 XD and the pads seems to be wearing evenly via visual inspection.

 

[showkey]

Yes...both. I rerouted the line and slide the master cylinder in to keep slack in the line.

Good question....you thinking that is causing the brake to drag?

Yes.....just an internet guess from a distance. I have risers and barkbuster and the manual clutch is "just barely long enough". The bike fell the over the other day, the barkbuster was pushing on the clutch cable....... changing the free play. i think the same can happen to the parking brake cable ????

Any cable routing issue that changes the cable free play would be a concern. Maybe it is only tight on tight turning. If the parking brake is self adjust every time you turn to steering lock the brake would auto adjust tighter. Just enough to drag but not enough to really notice. This tight cable condition would not turn the warning light on. One other member drove off with the brake on because his GPS was blocking the light. Definitely.....Not saying you drove off with the brake on.

My thought was check and double check the cable is not tightening for any reasons ( turning, braking, turning and braking ).
After repair.......pay real close attention to the 'free wheeling effort" on the rear wheel.

 

[drdubb]

Good thoughts...the parking brake was fine, it was the rear brake. I think the guide pin was not lubed and the pads hung up. While I wait for the new rotor to arrive, I will clean everything up, put it back together and see if I can find the cause. I will follow up on all suggestions. Keep 'em coming.

 

[showkey]

My mistake.......I misunderstood the parking was also worn and well as the foot brake.

I would then look for a reason how the rear brake would hold pressure with your foot off the pedal.......like the foot pedal not returning to the rest position. The stuck/ sticky brake caliper piston has merit as a cause for the brake to drag. I would check for relative easy piston movement. Since one pad is worn more than the other the caliper slide pins should allow the caliper to float and you mentioned. The caliper should self center over the rotor and on application both pads should do the braking work. When the caliper mount pins are a problem the piston side pads wears first.

Next question........some on the forum claim to use no or rarely use the rear brake. Some use the rear brake on every stop with little or no front. Some use the front and rear brake on every stop let's say evenly. Where are you in the brake use survey ?

The only other rider habit issue would be "big boots Bigfoot" and the rear brake is lightly but constantly applied. But both pads should wear evenly in the brake riding scenario.

 

[drdubb]

On the abs, the brakes are linked. As a habit, I'm a front as primary brake guy. In parking lot speeds, rear brake first. I'm careful about foot placement.

 

[drdubb]

Started messing with the rear brake today to see if I could find a cause of the sticking, fluid levels were fine, I could push the piston in with pliers, it went out fine when I applied the brake, then I started looking at the caliper and found that #6 was broken, the spring pad. I wonder if this broke and caused the sticking or vice versa. If the first, what would cause it to break. Maybe the heat melted it.

 

[L.B.S.]

On the abs, the brakes are linked. As a habit, I'm a front as primary brake guy. In parking lot speeds, rear brake first. I'm careful about foot placement.

I don't think the brakes were linked anymore on the 2014 models, though.

 

[drdubb]

The brakes are linked

I called American Honda...no joy. B/C I pulled off the pads myself..they pretty much would not talk with me or help problem solve. When I tried to explain that I don't use the rear brake as primary stopping power, he assumed I only use the front brake and the weak push on the rear brake caused damage to the pads....what an idiot.

I can either button it up and take it to the dealer or do the trouble shooting myself which is what I'm going to do. I plan on putting things back together with new pads and work with it until I determine a cause or determine that the pads were defective and just failed. I'll replace the rotor at that time. I know that the new pads will wear quickly with the rough rotor, but replacing pads is easy.