Rear brake pedal adjustment

[Dav2ison]

I have a 2023 NC750X DCT. I installed a set of MC motoparts 40mm footpegs. My issue is the following: how do you adjust the pedal height? I’d like to lower it 40mm to match the new pedal height.

 

[Rydinon]

A guess would be there is either a clevis arrangement in the linkage from the foot pedal or a couple of heim joints (aka rod end bearing). Look at the linkage, it should be obvious.

 

[Dav2ison]

A guess would be there is either a clevis arrangement in the linkage from the foot pedal or a couple of heim joints (aka rod end bearing). Look at the linkage, it should be obvious.

I took a look at the rod that goes to the master cylinder for the rear brake. That doesn’t look like it would adjust the pedal position but I could be incorrect. It’s not obvious to me. I’ve reviewed the owners manual and the service manual. There’s nothing I can find for height adjustment.

 

[Rydinon]

I took a look at the rod that goes to the master cylinder for the rear brake.

Take a picture of the brake pedal and the linkage that goes back to the mc, (or several pictures) and post it (them). Click on the square icon to the right of the two chain links in the toolbar atop this 'post reply' box. Then drag and drop your picture.

 

[Dan German]

Hmm, looking at it, I don’t see a way to adjust it (maybe a tiny bit with the push rod to the master, but negligible). Mine is in a good position for me as it is, but I’ve thought about lower pegs in the future. I need to watch this space in case I need to know later.

 

[670cc]

There is some adjustment in the brake pedal linkage rod, but without modification, e.g. cutting, I doubt you get any movement close to 40mm.

 

[K-Bee]

Here's the video to adjust the brake pedal, and after that, the brake light switch for the tail light.

 

[potter0o]

The pedal adjustment is pretty easy. The light switch is an absolute pain. In my shop manual this process is discussed in section 3. But why look it up when you have the video above

 

[K-Bee]

I wanted to buy a Honda Service Manual for the NC750, but Honda's exclusive service manual provider, Helm Inc. charges over $40 for their shipping and handling on top of the $58 for the manual. Apparently Honda is no longer a value oriented brand.... I guess I missed the memo, but now they let me know.

 

[Dan German]

I wanted to buy a Honda Service Manual for the NC750, but Honda's exclusive service manual provider, Helm Inc. charges over $40 for their shipping and handling on top of the $58 for the manual. Apparently Honda is no longer a value oriented brand.... I guess I missed the memo, but now they let me know.

Uhh… Helm is a publisher/bindery. You can get Honda manuals directly from Honda if you’re not satisfied with Helm’s pricing, but you’d better get a firm grasp on your knickers (and wallet) first. Also, if you’re equating “value-oriented” with “budget” you are making a huge mistake. It’s been a long time since Honda was the least expensive option for anything. They have very often been the best value for money option, but that’s not the same thing. And frankly, $100 would be saved on the first visit you DIDN’T make to an authorized dealer.

 

[dduelin]

Just for comparison I looked at the cost of the Suzuki factory service manual for the WeeStrom 650. It’s about $100 without shipping.

 

[dduelin]

Uhh… Helm is a publisher/bindery. You can get Honda manuals directly from Honda if you’re not satisfied with Helm’s pricing, but you’d better get a firm grasp on your knickers (and wallet) first. Also, if you’re equating “value-oriented” with “budget” you are making a huge mistake. It’s been a long time since Honda was the least expensive option for anything. They have very often been the best value for money option, but that’s not the same thing. And frankly, $100 would be saved on the first visit you DIDN’T make to an authorized dealer.

In the US Honda makes official copyrighted manuals available only through Helm. You can order them from a Honda dealer but Helm is the exclusive supplier. Other markets may be different.

 

[K-Bee]

Thanks guys, I'll look around. It was actually a Honda dealership that told me Helm was the only outlet and they have an exclusive contract. Maybe they just didn't want to order it for me.

 

[Dav2ison]

Here's the video to adjust the brake pedal, and after that, the brake light switch for the tail light.

Thanks K-Bee! I watched the video you attached and I'm going to give that a try. I may have to cut the end of the rod a bit to get the proper height. I've read that the brake switch is a pain but doesn't appear too hard. I'll let you all know how I make out.

As for the shop manual: The price is reasonable but the shipping/handling is outrageous. I bit the bullet and have it just in case.

 

[Dan German]

In the US Honda makes official copyrighted manuals available only through Helm. You can order them from a Honda dealer but Helm is the exclusive supplier. Other markets may be different.

I did not know this. However, I can order most manuals directly from Honda, and they are priced far higher than Helm, even allowing for USD exchange etc. And anybody who finds service manuals expensive clearly hasn’t bought a textbook in decades.

 

[Dav2ison]

Thanks K-Bee! I watched the video you attached and I'm going to give that a try. I may have to cut the end of the rod a bit to get the proper height. I've read that the brake switch is a pain but doesn't appear too hard. I'll let you all know how I make out.

As for the shop manual: The price is reasonable but the shipping/handling is outrageous. I bit the bullet and have it just in case.

I managed to drop the peddle height about 12mm before the adjustment screw jammed against the locking nut. I think I can get another 6mm of adjustment if I removed the jam nut and let the shaft jam into the clevis. but this isn't enough. So far this hasn't affected the brake light switch. I wonder if someone makes a modification of the brake master cylinder rod that will allow for a lower peddle?

 

[Dav2ison]

I managed to drop the peddle height about 12mm before the adjustment screw jammed against the locking nut. I think I can get another 6mm of adjustment if I removed the jam nut and let the shaft jam into the clevis. but this isn't enough. So far this hasn't affected the brake light switch. I wonder if someone makes a modification of the brake master cylinder rod that will allow for a lower peddle?

I investigated further. The Master cylinder Rod, Push itme #13 part number 43530-MS8-006 bottomed out on the jam nut just above the Brake rod Joint Part # 46504-MT8-006. Looks like the threaded part of the Rod is 8mm as is the nut and joint. We have a bunch of clever guys and gals on this site. Does anyone have an idea How I can change this brake peddle lower? I'm thinking if I use a shorter Rod (8)mm it would change the angle to the master cylinder. Short of cutting the peddle off and welding it lower I'm at a stopping point. What have any one of you all done to make this more usable?

 

[Rydinon]

I watched the video and I'm not sure what the clevis bears on when you press down on the pedal. If it is directly on the MC or there is no easy way to modify the linkage, this avenue is closed. I would price a new brake pedal - the arm that the pedal sits on. If the cost is not too intimidating I would then consider either heating and twisting the horizontal part of the pedal (the part that is bent away from the viewer and goes into the frame toward that clevis. If that seems too difficult, then I would make a cardboard model of the arm that holds the pedal, cut an inverted 'V' out of the vertical web, bend the cardboard arm down, and tape it. Hold that against your bike and see if it does the trick. If so, then cut, bend, and weld the arm. I assume the finish is plating, but I would silver rattle can spray it.

I think the cut, bend and weld will be more aesthetically acceptable than cut it off and weld it lower. If you carefully grind off some of the weld metal it might even look OEM.

 

[Dav2ison]

I watched the video and I'm not sure what the clevis bears on when you press down on the pedal. If it is directly on the MC or there is no easy way to modify the linkage, this avenue is closed. I would price a new brake pedal - the arm that the pedal sits on. If the cost is not too intimidating I would then consider either heating and twisting the horizontal part of the pedal (the part that is bent away from the viewer and goes into the frame toward that clevis. If that seems too difficult, then I would make a cardboard model of the arm that holds the pedal, cut an inverted 'V' out of the vertical web, bend the cardboard arm down, and tape it. Hold that against your bike and see if it does the trick. If so, then cut, bend, and weld the arm. I assume the finish is plating, but I would silver rattle can spray it.

I think the cut, bend and weld will be more aesthetically acceptable than cut it off and weld it lower. If you carefully grind off some of the weld metal it might even look OEM.

Thanks! I’ll consider that