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Sprocket change?

Im very interested in this thread. My ride to work is about 99% highway at 70mph n at times higher. Is it possible to have the rpm be that of wen ur cruzn 60 with a stock setup at 70....if possible what setup should I be using to achieve these.numbers. Any help wuld be great or if someone has the formula to figure it out myself wuld be great.
 
Putting the DCT rear sprocket on the X would drop the teeth from 43 to 39.

At 70MPH, this would reduce engine RPM from 3522 to 3194.

I was unable to upload a file to the forum, but here is a link to mediafire download.

Download Spreadsheet here
 
....... I find myself going back to 5th when I drop into 6th gear even at 55-60 mph. I know the bike will chug along... it's just going to take some getting used to.
Put it in drive mode and it will stay in 6th then use the down shift button to pass someone. In the mountains on an interstate mine rarely dropped out of 6th to hold 70 mph speed on steep climbs. In S mode it will not stay in 6th below 55 mph. It will not allow you to be below 3000 rpm in S mode. Acclerating quickly from a stop the D mode will shift at the same rpm as S mode. Try it, roll the throttle on full and it won't up shift until around 5800 rpm even in drive: over 20 mph in 1st, over 40 mph in second and over 60 mph in third.
 
Look at what I am about to buy! Item #2 - 41201-MGS-D70 SPROCKET, FINAL DRIVEN (39T) $46
 

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Put it in drive mode and it will stay in 6th then use the down shift button to pass someone. In the mountains on an interstate mine rarely dropped out of 6th to hold 70 mph speed on steep climbs. In S mode it will not stay in 6th below 55 mph. It will not allow you to be below 3000 rpm in S mode. Acclerating quickly from a stop the D mode will shift at the same rpm as S mode. Try it, roll the throttle on full and it won't up shift until around 5800 rpm even in drive: over 20 mph in 1st, over 40 mph in second and over 60 mph in third.

No drive mode, Mine's an X.
 
Can you tell us roughly the rpm you are now turning in 6th gear @ say around 100-110 kph?

Ok now bear in mind that the speedo reads a little higher now, so this is what i just did: 100kph = 3000rpm, 110 kph = 3250 to 3300rpm, 120kph = 3500 to 3600rpm.
Those rpms are not exact since my dash does not display exact rpms. According to my estimates, the speedo will read 7% higher than normal which translates to 50kph = 52 or 53kph on the speedo and 100kph = 107 or 108kph on the speedo. So in reality the 100, 110 and 120 speeds i just did will be around 94, 104 and 113kph. Sorry if this seems a little technical but it would seem that the overall rpm increase for the 45 rear sprocket may be 100 or 200 rpm.
 
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Ok now bear in mind that the speedo reads a little higher now, so this is what i just did: 100kph = 3000rpm, 110 kph = 3250 to 3300rpm, 120kph = 3500 to 3600rpm.
Those rpms are not exact since my dash does not display exact rpms. According to my estimates, the speedo will read 7% higher than normal which translates to 50kph = 52 or 53kph on the speedo and 100kph = 107 or 108kph on the speedo. So in reality the 100, 110 and 120 speeds i just did will be around 94, 104 and 113kph. Sorry if this seems a little technical but it would seem that the overall rpm increase for the 45 rear sprocket may be 100 or 200 rpm.

Thanks, bigjay! Those numbers are lower than I would have thought rpm-wise, cheers mate :)
 
If anyone has changed the front sprocket, I would like to know where did you buy it.
 
Look at what I am about to buy! Item #2 - 41201-MGS-D70 SPROCKET, FINAL DRIVEN (39T) $46

I assume this is the standard sprocket for the DCT version? And you have a standard version? Any updates on how well it bolted up, clearances with swingarm and affect on RPM?

I too am looking for a smaller rear sprocket or larger front sprocket for my standard X.... Want to lower RPM at 70mph a tad.
 
I would like to know how to get to the front sprocket to look at it if anyone know how.

Remove the 6 mm bolt on the shifter arm and pull it off. Remove the bolts holing it on and pull it off. You should be doing this occasionally to clean out the goop that fling off. Notice the orientation of the metal case-saver guide inside the cover so you can replace it properly. The more gradual curve goes on top.

When reinstalling, there is a dot on the shifter shaft that is an alignment mark for the lever. The split in the lever collar aligns with the dot.
 
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