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Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

Now it's time for a crazy question. Reading from the 2012-2014 Service Manual, p. 3-14 near the bottom, it is time to in stall the camshaft maintenance cap to the cylinder head. It goes on..."If the engine is removed from the frame..." yea right, like I'm gonna remove the engine for this valve check, but it goes on to say to install the cap per the torque specs. HOWEVER, "if the engine is installed on the frame, insert a feeler gauge (0.1mm) between the camshaft maintenance cap and cylinder head. Tighten the camshaft maintenance cap securely. REMOVE THE FEELER GAUGE (I added the capital letters to point out what they are doing). Then further tighten the camshaft maintenance cap at 30 degrees.

Please explain all that mess; engine removed from the frame vs engine is installed on the frame. I've never heard of tightening the cap with the feeler gauge still in place, then tighten another 30 degrees. Why not just tighten to the torque specs and call it good, which is what I bet everyone is doing.
 
Pretty much impossible to get a standard torque wrench in there with the engine mounted so the procedure they specify is a "degree to torque" procedure. They did the math to figure out that if you tighten the cap with a 1mm gap and then turn another 30 degrees that you will be at the same torque spec as if you had used a torque wrench. I've seen the same basic process used in engine building. The main thing is to not over torque since it is a plastic cover and the built in nut is easy to round off. I personally snugged it by hand and then used a wrench to turn it an additional approximate 30 degree. Also put some oil on the o-ring so it doesn't try to stick when loosening it on the next valve check. Keep in mind all they are doing is tightening it enough to keep it from vibrating loose. Same thing on the 2 covers on the flywheel side. Put oil on the o-ring and don't over tighten.
 
bamamate said:
Pretty much impossible to get a standard torque wrench in there with the engine mounted so the procedure they specify is a "degree to torque" procedure. They did the math to figure out that if you tighten the cap with a 1mm gap and then turn another 30 degrees that you will be at the same torque spec as if you had used a torque wrench. I've seen the same basic process used in engine building. The main thing is to not over torque since it is a plastic cover and the built in nut is easy to round off. I personally snugged it by hand and then used a wrench to turn it an additional approximate 30 degree. Also put some oil on the o-ring so it doesn't try to stick when loosening it on the next valve check. Keep in mind all they are doing is tightening it enough to keep it from vibrating loose. Same thing on the 2 covers on the flywheel side. Put oil on the o-ring and don't over tighten.
Click to expand...

Interesting, thank you!
 
ok, since I installed my center stand last night-either this evening or tomorrow I am going to do my valve check (at 8,000 miles they were spot on and I haven't checked them since, I was going to wait until the bike had 24,000 miles-going to do the 16,000 mile interval instead of 8,000, but with 20,000 miles on the bike and I am planning on doing about 1000 miles this weekend, I am going to do it now). I will use this as my source (I do have a shop manual also)- don't have Internet at home so I cant watch the youtube while I am doing it.

My buddy helped me at the 8000 mile mark (he actually did most of the work, I mostly watched him do it) and got the 'feel' of what the feeler gauges is supposed to be (first time I had ever seen it done). Wish me luck!!!
 
It was not rocket science and it appeared not designed by rocket science engineer either; who engineered that dang cam shaft maintenance cap in such a place you can only get an open end wrench on it and a frigging moat on the cap between the bolt and the end of the cap making it difficult to get any needed pressure on the dang bolt; sometimes I hate engineers (and my wife is an engineer-hvac). Enough rant.

Got er done. I took 2 hours, taking my time, cussing under my breath a few times (ok not under my breath)-I don't have much strength in my hands and that little hose behind the radiator cap was the hardest thing to come off, next to unplugging the electrical connection for the radiator fan; but after I got everything off, rest of the procedure was actually easy peasy. I actually had 2 exhaust valves which were tight (.26 or .25 mm), so I adjusted them to .28mm, lower left on cylinder #1 and lower left on cylinder #2-I was curious they were the same valves on each cylinder so I checked all of the them again to ensure I was 'feeling' correctly and it seemed so. Buttoned everything back up (easier putting on then taking off-now where have I heard that before) and took her for a quick jaunt down the road, no leaks when I got back-a good thing-seemed to have a little extra getup and go but could have been my imagination-expecting it...
 
I doubt I'll ever remove the camshaft maintenance cover again. First, line up the crankshaft marks for the cylinder you want. If the four valves/rockers you are to adjust are not loose, then rotate the crank 360 degrees and it will be right. The camshaft mark is just a confirmation of what you already know, but not necessary. Seems like a waste of time to remove the cover.
 
davidc83 said:
I actually had 2 exhaust valves which were tight (.26 or .25 mm), so I adjusted them to .28mm, lower left on cylinder #1 and lower left on cylinder #2-I was curious they were the same valves on each cylinder so I checked all of the them again to ensure I was 'feeling' correctly and it seemed so.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing last night. It was time for the 8000 mile inspection/oil change and I followed the guide in the first post and cross-referenced with the shop manual. It couldn't have been more straightforward. It took me about 2 hours and I'm sure it will be quicker next time. One thing that I find odd is that my two #1 exhaust valves were tight as well. All the other valves were spot on. Once it was all buttoned back up, she fired right up and ran fine. I haven't seen any leaks. The 7 foot pound torque on the valve cover bolts seemed a bit low to me, but it looks like it's holding. If it starts to leak, I'll snug them up a little. I was so excited to be back on my baby this morning. It's a beautiful day.
 
Antarius said:
First, grab yourself some tools and the Honda Service Manual. This How-To will tell you the real world what you need to do / not need to do -- but if you get stuck, you'll want to refer to the manual and it'll walk you through the process. Plus, it has all of the specs on the valve gap that you'll need. The manual will tell you to remove the lower cowl -- but it is completely unnecessary. I skip that step.
Click to expand...

Thanks Antarius
I just printed out a copy of your post and gave it to my tame Triumph mechanic and he did my valves for me - (at 24,000+ miles first time of checking) - he said they where all a bit tight.
Result is a noticeable increase in power (must be an increase in gas flow) can really hear the valves? now rattling away at idle (with helmet & ear plugs in).
:)
 
stu said:
Thanks Antarius
I just printed out a copy of your post and gave it to my tame Triumph mechanic and he did my valves for me - (at 24,000+ miles first time of checking) - he said they where all a bit tight.
Result is a noticeable increase in power (must be an increase in gas flow) can really hear the valves? now rattling away at idle (with helmet & ear plugs in).
:)
Click to expand...

I'm glad it all worked out for you and the bike is running great, but . . .

In theory, loosening the valves would reduce the power, not increase it. If the valves were a bit tight and the mechanical loosened them to get back to spec, the result would be less lift and timing overlap, and a very, very small reduction in air flow, which would actually decrease your power in a (likely) unnoticeable way. However, the decreased timing overlap due to loosening the valves should result in a smoother idle, albeit mechanically noisier, as you noted.
 
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Well, I finally got around to checking the valve clearances for the first time today. Mileage is almost 28,000 kms. Easy enough job and I also took the opportunity to completely change the coolant. The fiddliest bit was disconnecting the fan plug and other wiring at the back of the rad. All the exhaust clearances were tighter than spec by about 2/3 thou. Just one inlet was ok but I loosened it a little anyway. Imho after this check the clearances will not need adjustment again for as long as I own the bike anyway. The two plugs were spotless and had a lovely light tan colour.

On the negative side I found some corrosion. The paint on the bottom left corner of the radiator was bubbling around the hose connection and the entire bottom corner was affected. There were also small patches of corrosion under the paint on the valve cover. The steel mountings of the fan were showing some rusty edges. Prior to today, some paint had also lifted off the alloy plate that the Speedo/tacho mounts to. I am disappointed with this as Honda have always had a good reputation for finish. However I have noticed that other manufacturers also have issues with corrosion over this side of the pond. I have a feeling that the salt mix put on our roads, and in the UK is extremely corrosive. This despite that I always hose down the bike after winter rides.
 
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Yes indeed salt does win versus metal. However in the situations I am encountering on my NC, it is getting in under paint and not just at edges with metal. That suggests that the paint finish is not quite up to scratch. However I am coming to the opinion that all modern machinery is disposable/recyclable, cars, bikes etc etc.
 
Antarius Thank You for the excellent write up!

After reading the entire thread I've decided to wait until 16,000 miles before checking the valves on my '12 NCX.

Need to start gathering supplies for 8,000 oil change. :)
 
I adjusted my valves today. My NC had 32,609 miles on the clock with 14,313 miles since the last check. All the valves were on the loose end this time. Most were still within spec, but a couple was 3 thousands out. I was surprised because I figured they would be on the tight side.
 
turbodieseli4i6 said:
I adjusted my valves today. My NC had 32,609 miles on the clock with 14,313 miles since the last check. All the valves were on the loose end this time. Most were still within spec, but a couple was 3 thousands out. I was surprised because I figured they would be on the tight side.
Click to expand...

Your valves are seated as far as they will go with that many miles on it. You've got almost twice my mileage!
 
turbodieseli4i6 said:
I adjusted my valves today. My NC had 32,609 miles on the clock with 14,313 miles since the last check. All the valves were on the loose end this time. Most were still within spec, but a couple was 3 thousands out. I was surprised because I figured they would be on the tight side.
Click to expand...

I believe that after the first adjustment one will experience looseness thereafter. As Itlives says, the valves have seated fully but also there will be wear on the tappets to loosen things off. Of course loose is always much better than tight.
 
I'm sure it has been mentioned, but I'm not reading a 14 page thread to find out. Once can tell if they are approaching TDC compression by looking at the intake valve rocker(s). Once they open (go in) and close (come back out), the next TDC for that cylinder (if you are rotating the crank normally) will be TDC compression. This way you do not have to remove the fiddly cam plug.
 
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