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Valve Adjustment Step-By-Step

Got'er done. I have 17,221 on my Fuelly dashboard. Worst problem was getting the clip behind the radiator to let go. All were TIGHT and I don't have a small enough torque wrench, so I just didn't get too energetic in tightening. Thanks for the warnings on the head bolts. I kept my phone handy & referred to this if I got confused. Thanks for saving me a ton of money & getting some confidence in my wrenching


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Got'er done. I have 17,221 on my Fuelly dashboard. Worst problem was getting the clip behind the radiator to let go. All were TIGHT and I don't have a small enough torque wrench, so I just didn't get too energetic in tightening. Thanks for the warnings on the head bolts. I kept my phone handy & referred to this if I got confused. Thanks for saving me a ton of money & getting some confidence in my wrenching


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If you are talking about the cable clips behind the radiator, those are easier the second and third time. They loosen up a little after you remove them once. I usually struggle with the overflow hose. Those little spring style clamps have always dealt me fits.
 
Thanks for posting this. Finally did it yesterday with the test ride today. Conveniently lost power from a wind storm in the middle...oh joy. Labeled the left and right sides with painters tape so I wouldn't have to think about it. Went pretty well. Not super experienced with feeler gauges so that was the most difficult part.

Like most things could do it again in half the time.
 
I know nothing about adjusting valve's but I have an idea I would like to run by everyone.

Feller gauges to me seem kind of in exact. Is it possible to loosen the valve, insert the feeler gauge, then tighten to a specified torque? That way all valves are adjusted the same.

Thanks for educating me!

belrix
 
The feeler gauge has to be able to move for a correct setting, there will be no torque.
It's done by having a slight drag on the "feeler" gauge when moving it between the adjuster and the valve., thus the name.
 
Main thing you want, Brian,is to try and have the feeler at a ninety degree angle to the top of the valve and the rocker when you slide it in.. If it's off, you will have a false drag.
You'll see when you get there. It's not rocket surgery.
 
I know nothing about adjusting valve's but I have an idea I would like to run by everyone.....Thanks for educating me!

belrix

1 - Get "17 in 1 Gap Measure Feeler Gauge Blades 0.02-1mm Tool" or similar from Amazon for +/- $6.

View attachment 26111

2 - Remove blades which you're not going to use and leave only 0.15, 0.25, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04 and 0.05 mm.

3 - Use combination of two blades 0.15+0.02 for IN valves or 0.25+0.3 for EX valves

4 - Insert gauges between the valve adjusting screw and valve stern. If you can insert with slight resistance you almost there.

View attachment 26112

5 - Next try different set - 0.15+0.04 (or 0.03, depends how accurate you want to be), or 0.25+0.05 (or 0.04), with thinner blade on top

6 - Try to insert gauges. If thinner blade is bending in the process, your first measurement or adjustment was correct. If you can still insert gauges, repeat your adjustment.

That's all.
 
Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2013 NC. This guide was extremely helpful. Thank you!!

My only issue was that I snapped two of the valve cover bolts. Don't know my own strength. :D

Got some new bolts and all is good.
 
Just finished adjusting the valves on my 2013 NC. This guide was extremely helpful. Thank you!!

My only issue was that I snapped two of the valve cover bolts. Don't know my own strength. :D

Got some new bolts and all is good.

i had same problem all the time..now,if i don't have torque wrench or specs for specific bolt-i always mark them and place where they sit with a permanent marker. eliminate the guess
 
Yes, remember the valve cover bolts screw into the head -- and against a rubber and metal bushing. If you tighten them until they feel "real tight," you are likely over tightening them, as the rubber bushing will be compressing as you continue to tighten it.

As VE says, mark it prior to removal or better yet, use a torque wrench!
 
I've snapped a valve cover bolt which got me to looking at the way they work. There is a collar above the threads. Once the collar firmly sets down on the head, all of the pressure that is going to be applied to the valve cover is applied. Further torqueing isn't applying more pressure on the valve cover. It is applying pressure between the collar and the threads which is just to keep the bolt from vibrating back out which doesn't require much torque.
 
IIRC the torque on these is a fairly low 7 or 9 ft lbs and they don't tighten with the "usual" feel a bolt has when it comes tight. People twist them off regularly in the ST1300 forum and the bolts are similar.
 
Post #1 of this thread cautions against over tightening the head cover bolts and gives the torque specification. The OP shows a torque wrench in the list of required tools for this job. Now I can expect to see someone missing that instruction and breaking one off. But, how could someone break off two? :confused:

Moral of the story: a torque wrench and the torque specifications are essential tools for servicing the motorcycle.
 
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Glad to see I'm not the only one who has snapped those bolts!

Good advice VE, however a torque wrench is on the way!

that's why i have two of them, and using the torque wrench even on car wheels. yes,there is specs for it and they vary from car to car
 
that's why i have two of them, and using the torque wrench even on car wheels. yes,there is specs for it and they vary from car to car
Also using a torque wrench for vehicle wheels will also prevent warping the discs of your disc brakes. (When over-tightening the lugs nuts)
 
Post #1 of this thread cautions against over tightening the head cover bolts and gives the torque specification. The OP shows a torque wrench in the list of required tools for this job. Now I can expect to see someone missing that instruction and breaking one off. But, how could someone break off two? :confused:

Because like I said earlier I don't know my own strength and even on the best days shit happens. Not everyone has a fully stocked tool shed. Some of us have to make do with what we have. These bolts are the lightest bolts I have ever worked with and I had never snapped a bolt in all my years of wrenching prior to these bolts. I got my bike back in working order without a torque wrench.
 
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