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Valve adjustment tips and advice please

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kumatae

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So I'm getting close to 8000 miles and want to plan ahead for my valve adjustment. Will be picking up Honda coolant. I saw videos and have read the manual but actually doing it is a whole another thing. I've done valve adjustments on other bikes. Any tips and advice? Any special tools besides the clearance gauge? I need to do it right the first time as I commute daily and motorcycle is my only transportation. Have a lot of patience and beer so I'm good to go there. Not doing oil change as it was done when I picked it up at 4000. Probably do that at 10,000. Thanks!


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Honda lengthened the interval to 16,000 miles after the 2013s if I'm not mistaken. You might have a while yet to do this.
 
dduelin said:
Honda lengthened the interval to 16,000 miles after the 2013s if I'm not mistaken. You might have a while yet to do this.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! I just found the post that said 2014+ have 16,000 mile intervals which means I got 8 more months! Sweet!!

Can't believe I missed it! Thanks once again and I guess I'll revive this post when the time comes!


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Oil change interval is 8000 miles so you're good until 12,000 unless you don't rack miles up very fast.
 
Early on they tighten up more, after you put on more miles they seem to settle in, I don't think mine have moved after 28k or 30k miles I'm at 56k now and I was doing my oil and checking my valves every 10k miles, now I'm going to check my valves every other oil change sense they haven't moved the last two times I checked them
 
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The first time checking the valves is probably a 2 to 3 hour project because of second guessing and double checking after doing it 4 or 5 times I do it in about an hour without rushing. If you've adjusted valves before I'm willing to bet these are even easier and you could definitely do it. Remember the motor can't be hot at all so let it sit over night and do it the next day.
YouTube
I found that video to be helpful
 
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Krampus said:
Buy your coolant at the Honda Auto dealer; may be less expensive; same blue stuff as far as I know. Get angled measuring / feeler gauges if you don't have them; makes life easier (and more accurate). Careful with the valve cover bolts when you tighten; check the archives on this one.
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blue coolant? Isn't it supposed to be green? And I haven't checked in awhile but I thought the dealer was now expensive. The other tips are really good ones, especially the angles feeler gauges.
 
Ah ok. I got a gallon (undiluted) of Pentafrost A2 from local automotive store, yeah buying by the quart sounds expensive
 
My 2012 has about 7k. So since they upped the interval to 16k, do I still need to do it at 8k? The engine is exact same is it not?

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flyinfree.00 said:
My 2012 has about 7k. So since they upped the interval to 16k, do I still need to do it at 8k? The engine is exact same is it not?

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Click to expand...

Many of us have decided that it's OK to apply the new interval to the older bikes. As far as we know, the engine has not changed. But, these are assumptions and the risk is assumed by the owner, since there is no official word on it.

I tend to base my valve adjustment interval off past experience anyway. Not knowing how a new engine is wearing in, I personally would do the first adjustment at 8k miles, then extend it based on what I found.
 
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That kind of what I was thinking. Guess I'll bite the bullet and do it at 8 and 16. 670cc do you still do every 8k or did you go to 16k?

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flyinfree.00 said:
That kind of what I was thinking. Guess I'll bite the bullet and do it at 8 and 16. 670cc do you still do every 8k or did you go to 16k?

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Click to expand...

I favor the 16k interval, but it has much to do with when I have the time to do it, so nothing is set in stone. Again, it will depend on what I find at the next adjustment (somewhere around 35k) as to where I go from there.
 
rippin209 said:
blue coolant? Isn't it supposed to be green? And I haven't checked in awhile but I thought the dealer was now expensive. The other tips are really good ones, especially the angles feeler gauges.
Click to expand...

The new Honda coolant is blue and on the bottle states it is compatible with mixing with the green (so you don't have to drain all the coolant out of the system). Just did my valves last weekend and got the new Honda blue coolant and the sales rep made it a point to inform me it is compatible with green; any coolant, just ensure it does not contain silicates as silicates may damage the water pump (also states this on the bottle).
 
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670cc said:
I favor the 16k interval, but it has much to do with when I have the time to do it, so nothing is set in stone. Again, it will depend on what I find at the next adjustment (somewhere around 35k) as to where I go from there.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the info. I will be doing the 8 and 16 and then go from there.

I'm going to busy in a few weeks. Valve check, coolant change, oil change, brakefluid change, and changing the chain out.

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The recommended life for fork oil is 10,000 also (I think) like the brake fluid it is often over looked
 
[The recommended life for fork oil is 10,000 also (I think) like the brake fluid it is often over looked]

I've never seen a stated replacement interval for fork oil. The brake fluid is 2-years and at least you can see the color of the brake fluid through that plastic eye in the reservoir. Most people NEVER change their fork oil and it only gets done when a seal blows. You'll be amazed at how much grunge can accumulate in the bottom of the fork tubes/sliders!
 
^^^^^^^^plus if your not a DIY guy............that fork oil service interval is going to get real expensive.

Back in the "good old days" fork legs had drain screws.........made fork oil changing quick and easy.
 
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Fork oil is one of those things that I can admit that I was intimidated by. Like most things, doing was much less complicated than I thought. Could do another one in half the time and I am better for the experience.
 
showkey said:
^^^^^^^^plus if your not a DIY guy............that fork oil service interval is going to get real expensive.

Back in the "good old days" fork legs had drain screws.........made fork oil changing quick and easy.
Click to expand...
I did make the assumption that someone reading this is planning on doing it themselves, with a modest investment in tools and a willingness to try, I think anyone able bodied and smart enough to ride can do most maintenance themselves. we've all have accesses to the internet or you wouldn't be posting on here ;)
4351f713d491fc25031432e700a3758c.jpg

If you have enough money that your not motivated to try and do it yourself then just do whatever the tech recommends, just find a good tech first
 
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