2013 NC700X totally dead

[Triumph 'n Shadow]

And these batteries are not cheap!!!
I got a brand new one this past August and it was over $100.
For that I was expecting some sort of gold plated battery with a ten year warranty.
But no, just the regular ole battery.

We have had some serious cold weather here.
We had three or four days it dropped down to around zero to minus 1 (F).
But after those days it started.
We were gone for several days down to the Pa. Farm Show but we are back and I can start checking into this.
I will ride it all year if no snow or ice are on the roads.

I do have a volt meter picked up a moth ago.
Time to try it out!!

Again, thank you all for each added nugget of NC wisdom!

God bless!!

Michael

 

[Ticopilot]

Look for the starter relay and check if it is not blown.

 

[rippin209]

Look for the starter relay and check if it is not blown.

Would that explain the dash not lighting up or everything else showing signs of power?

 

[1wiseguy2]

If it is the battery and you got it in August I would expect to get a full refund or exchange of old for a new one. I just bought a lithium iron phosphate battery at batterystuff.com.
Will see how that goes. Cost $143 was for my ST1300. 387 CCA instead of the stock 180. Everyone complains about the cost of them...a name brand lead acid battery is $100 or more these days so what's a little bit more to get rid of the acid.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[ste7ios]

You can't claim the warranty for a sulfated battery. Usually they cover manufacturing defects, like internal cell interconnection... Check your warranty and use it if it's possible.

LFP at low temp doesn't perform very well if not at all. You've to choose a REAL capacity equal to the OEM specs or bigger. You must ignore PbEq. ratings and go for the real thing. Why? You have to warm the battery with some consumption. It will get warm but at the end of the process there will be no juice to start the engine...

CCA is also meaningless for LFP.

 

[1wiseguy2]

You can't claim the warranty for a sulfated battery. Usually they cover manufacturing defects, like internal cell interconnection... Check your warranty and use it if it's possible.

LFP at low temp doesn't perform very well if not at all. You've to choose a REAL capacity equal to the OEM specs or bigger. You must ignore PbEq. ratings and go for the real thing. Why? You have to warm the battery with some consumption. It will get warm but at the end of the process there will be no juice to start the engine...

CCA is also meaningless for LFP.

By real capacity do you mean Amp Hours?

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[ste7ios]

Exactly! Ah.

 

[Ticopilot]

Would that explain the dash not lighting up or everything else showing signs of power?

If nothing lights up and it does not start, it could be because of the starter relay. A blown starter relay will cause lack of electricity in the whole bike unless you have something connected directly to the battery in which case this item will have power.

 

[670cc]

If nothing lights up and it does not start, it could be because of the starter relay. A blown starter relay will cause lack of electricity in the whole bike unless you have something connected directly to the battery in which case this item will have power.

Your definition of a starter relay is causing confusion. The starter relay does not supply power to the motorcycle; it supplies power to the starter motor. However, the 30 amp fuse mounted adjacent to the relay, and within that assembly, does supply power to the motorcycle. Reference the attached photo showing the 30A fuse that might be open (or as some would say, blown).

 

[AsureDawn]

Your definition of a starter relay is causing confusion. The starter relay does not supply power to the motorcycle; it supplies power to the starter motor. However, the 30 amp fuse mounted adjacent to the relay, and within that assembly, does supply power to the motorcycle. Reference the attached photo showing the 30A fuse that might be open (or as some would say, blown).

Depends--if the starter relay gets stuck closed, it could drain the battery and keep the other electronics from receiving enough power to turn on. In that case, it should be pretty obvious what's going on once you put a new battery in. Doesn't seem very likely to me, though, just because you should have noticed something wrong when (and after) it last successfully cranked.

 

[lootzyan]

...if the starter relay gets stuck closed... ..

Starter relay connects starter motor to battery.
To get stuck relay first needs to be energized - contacts would stay closed and motor turning. Unlikely scenario without noticing.

 

[rippin209]

If nothing lights up and it does not start, it could be because of the starter relay. A blown starter relay will cause lack of electricity in the whole bike unless you have something connected directly to the battery in which case this item will have power.

That's good to know, I figured the starter relay was only for the starter.

 

[Triumph 'n Shadow]

Starter relay connects starter motor to battery.
To get stuck relay first needs to be energized - contacts would stay closed and motor turning. Unlikely scenario without noticing.

The bike started and I took it for a 30 mile run (cold out!!)
Then I got home turned it off and parked it.
A couple days later it would do nothing.
Does this sound like it?
Could it be the main fuse?

I am going out today and check fuses.
I have not touched it since it has been so cold out.
But we are to have 48 (F) temps today.
That I can stand!

Let you know soon about the fuses.

God bless!!

Michael

 

[lootzyan]

...Could it be the main fuse?...

Fuse blown? I don't think so. First you would ask yourself - why? Did you do something what would cause 30 Amps fuse to blow?
This fuse is for theoretical protection of battery (you still have many different ways to destroy battery). But check the fuse anyway.
Firstly, you need to check battery.
Next, check connections from battery to ground and to starter relay contacts.
Check voltage between any exposed bolt head on left side of engine, close to starter motor and one of starter relay contacts (look at 670cc's picture, thread #29).
If battery is dead that's a different story. There are components always connected to battery - ECM, combination meter and voltage regulator. But I would give a very little chance that one of them is bad.

 

[670cc]

Automotive fuses are generally very reliable. They don't open without a reason. Check them, but be prepared to move on when you find they are good.

The guessing has to end and the voltmeter has to come out and provide some answers.

 

[VE258]

i suspect that there is something really small plugged into the bike's battery that suck the electricity out of it. i mean- i have GPS power cord with little tiny LED light. it goes into cigarette adapter(?) (which wired directly to the battery). once i forgot to disconnect it-battery was completely drained in a couple days.

grab one of these from any magazine and head on to harbor freight

it's free .it's a decent multi meter

 

[Triumph 'n Shadow]

That is funny!
I got one of those maybe a week before Christmas.
We have a Harbor Freight 2 miles from our house.
A nice little playground, I must admit.
My brother-in-law need one on Christmas Day and I got that for him to use.
He, also, liked it a lot.
I will check things out and let you know.
I checked all the regular fuses to no avail.
Where will I find the main fuse?
In the frunk around the fuse box?

Thanks.

God bless!!

Michael

 

[Triumph 'n Shadow]

Okay.
Just went out and tested the battery with the digital multimeter.
There are absolutely no accessories on the bike that uses electricity.
The bike was last used on the Friday before New Year's Eve.
It was then found to not show anything on the dash and not do a thing.
I put a battery tender on the bike for 3 days.
I tried it again and nothing.
I checked the fuses (except for the main Fuse).
They are fine.
I just checked the battery.
With the meter set to 20 volts DC it read 5.38.

The battery is toast.

I called the Honda dealer.
I got the battery from them 3-30-2016.
They said I need to bring the battery to them.
They will put it on a charger over night.
If it is still dead the next day I get a new battery.
If not, I get the old one back.
I have had it on the tender several times in the lat week with nothing showing.
I will now let them find this out.

God bless!!

Michael

 

[670cc]

That is funny!
I got one of those maybe a week before Christmas.
We have a Harbor Freight 2 miles from our house.
A nice little playground, I must admit.
My brother-in-law need one on Christmas Day and I got that for him to use.
He, also, liked it a lot.
I will check things out and let you know.
I checked all the regular fuses to no avail.
Where will I find the main fuse?
In the frunk around the fuse box?

Thanks.

God bless!!

Michael

We talked about the main fuse in post #29. See the photo showing the 30 amp fuse. In the photo it is green and it says "30" on it.

 

[ste7ios]

With so low voltage probably your charger didn't even tried to charge it or recognized it as a 6V battery.

It can be the battery (e.g. a broken interconnection, shorted cell) but it will be good to check if there is some parasitic drain and the health of the charging system. You may have a faulty R/R.