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1st Oil change

I did the honda 10/30 full syn at 596 miles, if your gonna change the oil every 2000 miles it ain't worth it, I figger 5000 mile services its worth it to me, but they are recomending 8000 mile service. Many new cars and bikes come new with syn already, there is no such thing as to earley for full syn oil. If it takes more time for the motor to break in than thats all the longer it will take to wear out. MHO....
 
I change my oil to Honda Full synthetic yesterday morning at 680 miles... YES! The oil filter was a B^&%%^& to get out!!! Finally put a long nail through it and turn her loose.... Tighten new oil filter by hand as much as I can and it stay... (Confirm that today after a ride)... I was kind of surprise to see oil come out darker than expected but not too bad... Saw some metal particles in the oil which I expect to see on a new engine.

Went out for a 150 miles ride today... Notice the transmission is way smoother... Honda transmission is already smooth, now even better! :)
 
The chick at my local Honda stealership gave me 10W-40 when I said I needed oil and a filter for my NC700. When I got home, the manual said to use 10W-30. What weight are you guys using?
 
10/40 is ok and says so in the book, the 10/40 honda stuff is semi syn while the 10/30 can be had in full syn from Honda. It may be impossible to find 10/30 syn oil that is not labeled energy conserving other than a Honda dealer.
 
gjohn said:
The chick at my local Honda stealership gave me 10W-40 when I said I needed oil and a filter for my NC700. When I got home, the manual said to use 10W-30. What weight are you guys using?
Click to expand...
I am using 10w30 but like sb said you can use 10w40. The owners manual says 10w30 only recommended engine oil but the service manual shows both 10w30 and 10w40. Its OK [10w40] unless you just want to use 10w30.
 
Thanks guys. I'll put that in now that I've got the left cowl off. Next time I'll go full retar....I mean synthetic.
 
I brought the NCX to the dealer at 300 miles and they used Factory Honda Pro-Honda GN4 10W40 Motorcycle Oil that they had in a barrel. The service managager said it was so good he considered using it in his automobile.
 
The dealer used the 10w-40 in mine at the 600 mile service, the best thing about it is my shifts are no longer the clunk of square cut dogs, but the nice "snick" sound I was used to in a Honda.
 
I changed the oil yesterday, after reading some of the comments about removing the oil filter I was a little worried. I have a couple of different oil filter tools, the filter came off easily. Here's the tool I used.DSCN1474.jpg
My local dealer sold me the Honda 10w-40, claims their service department uses it. Taking my time, it took me about 45 minutes and $37 using Honda parts. The dealer wanted $121.

DSCN1472.jpg

Ed
 
AZ_Ed said:
I changed the oil yesterday, after reading some of the comments about removing the oil filter I was a little worried. I have a couple of different oil filter tools, the filter came off easily. Here's the tool I used.View attachment 1440
My local dealer sold me the Honda 10w-40, claims their service department uses it. Taking my time, it took me about 45 minutes and $37 using Honda parts. The dealer wanted $121.

View attachment 1441

Ed
Click to expand...

With the right tools... effortless... :)
 
+1 on the way too tight factory oil filter. I used a large C clamp to bite into it, and get some torque (no parts needed to be removed). New filter = hand tightened.

Last time I was in a bind and let a shop change the oil on my truck, they over-tightened the filter and the drain plug. Never again. Bastages...

QUESTION: My dealer says I need a new crush washer for the drain plug with every oil change. This isn't something I normally worry about, and don't have oil leaks. Is there something different with the NC where I should worry about this?
 
goodrick said:
+1 on the way too tight factory oil filter. I used a large C clamp to bite into it, and get some torque (no parts needed to be removed). New filter = hand tightened.

Last time I was in a bind and let a shop change the oil on my truck, they over-tightened the filter and the drain plug. Never again. Bastages...

QUESTION: My dealer says I need a new crush washer for the drain plug with every oil change. This isn't something I normally worry about, and don't have oil leaks. Is there something different with the NC where I should worry about this?
Click to expand...

I didn't have a new washer when I did my 600... I did use loctite (white) just to make sure the drain nut stay put...

This is not regular loctite, it's white (sorry I don't have the part #now). I used this on all my bikes in the past.
 
Goodrick,
I don't have a copy of the NC service manual, but I would bet that it says to replace the crush washer every time you change the oil (the manual for every bike I've had for the last 15 years has called for a new one). Having said that, most do it yourself mechanics that I know typically re-use them a couple times. Personally, I like to replace it. Crush washers are really inexpensive, they are there to act as a gasket and prevent leaks, and I just feel a new washer should work better than one that's been previously "crushed". Whether it's replaced or not, an hour or so after an oil change I still look at the drain plug and make sure I don't see a little drop of the new oil collecting on the head of the bolt. I'm sure you'll also hear from others who re-use the washer and don't have any leaks.

Bob
 
LA_NC700X said:
I didn't have a new washer when I did my 600... I did use loctite (white) just to make sure the drain nut stay put...

This is not regular loctite, it's white (sorry I don't have the part #now). I used this on all my bikes in the past.
Click to expand...

Loctite White (565) is a pipe thread sealant for tapered threads. This is a mis-application of the product and it interferes with applying the correct torque to the drain bolt. Since the downside of a leaking drain bolt is oil on your back tire, I would suggest that the correct process and materials be used. People re-use the old crush washers frequently and report good results. I do not do it, but I have seen it done successfully many times. A crush washer "work hardens" in use and the subsequent times it is used, it will not be as soft and will not deform as readily into the gaps you are trying to seal. Some people compensate for this with more torque, which is dangerous to the machine. Go ahead and re-use them if you wish, but if a re-used washer does not seal properly at the recommended torque without thread sealant, a new one is needed. If you want to play scientist, you can anneal aluminum washers at 800 degrees F and recover the softness of a new one. But given the cost and the criticality, why not just do it by the book?
 
I purchased the bike from Coyote Honda. Also the oil filter, washer and oil. The large windshield I ordered with the bike is still on backorder. This is the third "new" delivery date Dec 9...
 
I replaced my crush washer and thanks to you guys used full synthetic, and used the exact wrench that LA NC700X used. It worked as easy as he said it did.
MLH
 
This bike is super easy to change the oil on , filter came right off for me. I have the flat wrench also. Funny thing is ,this bike takes the same filter as my 08 wing and I have several of those left :)
 
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