2024: What did you do to/with your NC700/NC750 today?

[jburner]

How about breaking beads? Any tricks to that?

 

[milesprwr]

How about breaking beads? Any tricks to that?

I've used this fancy contraption for my last two tire changes. The Winbag elevates the tire/wheel so that the vice pinches just the tire. The wood backing makes it so just the forward facing side of the tire's bead is broken. Then I go around 3 - 4 times per side to break the bead. The nice thing about this method is there little risk of bending the edges of the wheel (assuming you have it elevated right). The down side of this approach that you have to lift the heavy wheel/tire kinda high and balance it on a small surface.



In the future, I'll probably try this method with tire spoons:

 

[potter0o]

How about breaking beads? Any tricks to that?

I use an older version of this Harbor Freight changer. I keep a pallet in the garage that I bolt it to when I want to do a change. I have some carpet that I put on it to protect the rims. Some rubber lube is very helpful for breaking the bead.

https://www.harborfreight.com/manual-tire-changer-58731.html

I have tried the spoons method and found that it scuffed up the rims. I felt that the "minor maring" referenced in the video may interfere with a good seal.

Another option would be to call local shops and see what they would charge if the tires are off the bike to mount and balance. I have heard of $30 a tire...might be money well spent YMMV

 

[kokomoto]

In the past I used a big c-clamp. A few years ago, I bought a the Motion Pro BeadPro tire levers. Much better solution for bead braking. I also use a couple sets of good rim protectors, and a Motion Pro Trail Bead Buddy.

 

[670cc]

How about breaking beads? Any tricks to that?

I use a bead breaker tool from Harbor Freight. Easily breaks beads on light truck, car, trailer, small tractor, and motorcycle wheels.

 

[the Ferret]

Day 136... rode the 756/505 north loop, a 52 miler @77 degrees and cloudy

 

[Lee_0123]

This morning I rode to have breakfast with the motorcycle club. After breakfast I led a group of 11 bikes for a ride that went for about 115 miles. The first ice cream place we stopped at didn't open for another 45 minutes so we moved on. The second place was open and had a good selection of flavors. My choice today was black cherry, excellent. I rode a total of 170 miles for the day.

 

[the Ferret]

Day 137..Sunday is Airport Loop day for me only the state closed off one of the roads in that loop for the next 3 months so I had to do a modified loop..54 miles @ 70 degrees and cloudy

 

[Egg on Leggs]

Today, I did my first il change at 4226 miles.

 

[T S N]

Replaced my chain today.
40,000 miles. It was getting some stiff links. 4000 miles ago, the length measurement was still good.

 

[670cc]

Replaced my chain today.
40,000 miles. It was getting some stiff links. 4000 miles ago, the length measurement was still good.

That is amazing chain life! I do believe stiff links end the life of way, way more chains than hitting the length limit.

 

[the Ferret]

Day 138...a 55 miler @ 79 degrees and partly cloudy

Went on reserve at 200.2 miles, went 7.5 miles to gas station, has used 1/10 on reserve and took 2.7 gals to fill.

 

[dduelin]

The right fork leg recently started weeping but not really leaking oil. Ever so little wet ring marking suspension travel. 100 miles of riding would leave a dirty ring around the fork leg marking the deepest compression of the suspension. I took a Seal Mate tool and cleaned out the seal area yesterday and rode a bit over 100 miles this morning and happily no "high water" mark on the fork leg. Hopefully I won't have to replace the seals for a while yet. 33,400 miles currently.

 

[vinay]

How difficult is lower leg service for these forks? Compared to everything else people seem to be doing here, it seems relatively easy. I can imagine it would take a bit of work to remove all the plastic before you can release the stanchions from the crowns, but if you leave the stanchions in place and just release the fork lowers from the stanchions it should be easy enough, isn't it. Still learning so correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it just a matter of

1. Put the bike on the center stand (and maybe put a crate or something under the engine so that it really won't tip forwards).
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Put a bucket under the fork.
4. Remove the bolts under the fork lowers and drain the lubrication oil.
5. Remove the bucket.
6. Slide the fork lowers from the stanchions.
7. Clean the whole lot and replace the fork seals when needed (and maybe the bushings but I can imagine that might take more specialist tools to get it right).
8. Put the lowers back on.
9. Inject lubrication oil up the bolt hole, slide the lowers the last bit up so that the push rods close off the hole and put the bolts back on.
10. Put front wheel back in.
11. Remove the crate.

Feel free to set me straight here. And of course you will need to remove the stanchions from the crowns (hence remove all the fairings) for a complete fork overhaul.

 

[670cc]

How difficult is lower leg service for these forks?

This job is far easier and with accurate oil level fill if you remove the wheel and fender, and remove the forks from the triple clamps. If you just need to flush and replace the oil (most common service)., there is no need to separate the upper and lower fork tubes. On my 2012 NCX, other than the front fender, I don't need to remove any plastics to take the forks off.

If you have seal leak(s), first try cleaning the seal with a seal cleaner tool. Often that stops leaks and no need to replace seals. If you believe the bushings need replacement, well then you will need to separate upper and lower tubes.

Since you have a fork service question, I suggest we not clutter this thread. Read the following linked thread and post questions there; https://www.nc700-forum.com/threads/fork-oil-change.3748/

If you are doing much of your own service, buy the Honda service manual.

 

[dduelin]

How difficult is lower leg service for these forks? Compared to everything else people seem to be doing here, it seems relatively easy. I can imagine it would take a bit of work to remove all the plastic before you can release the stanchions from the crowns, but if you leave the stanchions in place and just release the fork lowers from the stanchions it should be easy enough, isn't it. Still learning so correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it just a matter of

1. Put the bike on the center stand (and maybe put a crate or something under the engine so that it really won't tip forwards).
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Put a bucket under the fork.
4. Remove the bolts under the fork lowers and drain the lubrication oil.
5. Remove the bucket.
6. Slide the fork lowers from the stanchions.
7. Clean the whole lot and replace the fork seals when needed (and maybe the bushings but I can imagine that might take more specialist tools to get it right).
8. Put the lowers back on.
9. Inject lubrication oil up the bolt hole, slide the lowers the last bit up so that the push rods close off the hole and put the bolts back on.
10. Put front wheel back in.
11. Remove the crate.

Feel free to set me straight here. And of course you will need to remove the stanchions from the crowns (hence remove all the fairings) for a complete fork overhaul.

I have had the NC forks out several times for maintenance or upgrades and rebuilt other motorcycle forks as well. With the NC I remove the fork assembly from the clamps and separate the individual leg from the assembly for draining and specific disassembly as required for the task.

 

[vinay]

Thanks for the info. Good to hear it doesn't take much to remove the complete fork from the clamps. I plan to take a series of workshops on motorbike maintenance in November (every Friday evening that month) so will probably get myself the workshop manual for this bike to do it properly. And yeah, I'll head for the respective forums once I'm at it. Cheers!

 

[davidc83]

The right fork leg recently started weeping but not really leaking oil. Ever so little wet ring marking suspension travel. 100 miles of riding would leave a dirty ring around the fork leg marking the deepest compression of the suspension. I took a Seal Mate tool and cleaned out the seal area yesterday and rode a bit over 100 miles this morning and happily no "high water" mark on the fork leg. Hopefully I won't have to replace the seals for a while yet. 33,400 miles currently.

Mine was doing this last summer. Also used the same tool, got about 12 grains of sand out and no more weeping.

 

[the Ferret]

Day 140...normally ride to lunch day with buds, but with weather forecast calling for 80% chance of rain around noon we decided to cage it. So I was on the road at sun up to get my daily ride in. Rode the Ridge Loop..54 miles @ 69 degrees and overcast

 

[the Ferret]

Day 141.. rode out to visit some buddies from the ST forum at their annual Ohio Rally at Lake Hope State Park in eastern Ohio. 270 miles @ 80 degrees with sunshine./wind and some light sprinkles

Oh and turned over another milestone on the bike ...