Accessory Wiring (Plan/Log)

[AsureDawn]

I haven't done this before, so it'll be a learning experience--please guide me as I work this out, I'll keep you informed as I wire it up and take photos along the way.

What's done:
Honda OEM accy sub-harness is installed (maybe? the relay and fuses are there--need to check for power and/or look for the actual sub-harness)

Here's my draft plan:

Buy the following items from EasternBeaver:

• 3 Circuit Solution Sealed LONG - One Fuse Unswitched
• Relay Weather Proofing Option
• SAE Connector with 48” (122 cm) Leads
• 3CS Leads Sealed (SAE) 80 cm (31.5”)
• BLACK Sumitube W3B2 3/8” by 4”(10cm) (4x)
• 10mm Cable Clamp
• 7mm Cable Clamp(s)

Install the 3CS and Relay under the right side fairing, held in place by the 10mm Cable Clamp, running the supply/ground wires down and into the battery compartment from the front, and up to the terminals from below (to keep water from migrating down the wires onto the battery terminals). Not sure where I'm going to tap the switch wire for the relay yet. Circuits 1, 2, and 3 will be for heated grips, frunk SAE, and trickle-charge (unswitched), respectively. Innov camera will use OEM harness, if/when I ever get it.

• The Sealed SAE extension will supply unswitched power to the battery for trickle charging, and will be secured to the handlebars somewhere near the center with a zip-tie.
• The SAE Connecter with 48" leads will be routed into the frunk for switched power (more a just in case thing--probably won't wire that up until I figure out what I'll use it for)
• Leads for the heated grips will first go to a PWM controller, then follow the brake and clutch lines up to the respective grips. The PWM controller will be mounted adjacent the relay, and wired to a remote pot mounted to the handlebars via a (12V plug?) bracket.
• Will need to think of where to mount the cameras for the innov system and how to route the wires--front camera I want behind the windscreen, not sure about the rear camera yet. The brains will probably be velcro'd to the underside of the fairing (opposite the 3CS/relay/etc.).
• Sumitube will be used for the connector going to the OEM sub-harness, the pot for the grips, and maybe on the backside of the Sumi sealed connectors (mostly unnecessary, I know--maybe I'll buy some regular heatshrink for those) for wire stability and the clean look.

Tips/advice appreciated. Look forward to updates. ^_^

 

[kumatae]

This is what I would do. I would start by taking the panels on the clutch side - not sure if this is left or right but you get the idea. I would verify that the subharness is installed or not before buying anything. If not installed, I would go ahead and install it. I think you can accomplish what you want with subharness. If you feel you need to power more accessories then go ahead and get the eastern beaver 3 circuit solution. On my subharness, I have heated grips and led driving lights so far. Will be adding USB power and 12v shortly. I have a SAE plug wire connected directly to the battery for charging and other needs. Hope this helps.

I would definitely get the connectors to the harness as discussed here. Makes the install so much cleaner.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/3146-corresponding-connectors.html






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[Old Can Ride]

I also am a user of the Eastern Beaver PC-8 Fuse Panel Kit. Easy install. I run so much junk that it even amazes me that it all works great. I do like the switched on and not switched locations, make things easy, even for a electrical know nothing like me. I still have a more switched places to use if needed.

Switched - Givi Fog Lights

Unswitched - Warm and Safe 90 watt electric jacket, pants, and gloves via a DC Coax Jack Panel Mount w/ 6in Coax Plug Cable

EKLIPES™ Black Cobra Ultimate Motorcycle USB 12 volt socket and jumper system. When I accidently leave my
lights on my DCT running my battery down. I just plug into my jump starter socket under the seat with small RED Fuel jumper battery (Walmart) that I carry at all times, push the start button to start the bike, and just drive on my merry way. The Red Fuel small jumper battery also has a USB port that I use when camping for charging phone, pad, and etc.

 

[DirtFlier]

For the key ON 12v power to activate the relay, I used a short, self-created subharness (shaped like a T-junction ). It gets 12v from the brake light switch with key ON and it's part of the front brake master cylinder. Being up front, it's close to the battery or frunk so wire routing is easy, plus you don't have to butcher an existing wire.

I'm also using the Eastern Beaver 3 connector solution, all outlets controlled by the relay.

 

[AsureDawn]

This is what I would do. I would start by taking the panels on the clutch side - not sure if this is left or right but you get the idea. I would verify that the subharness is installed or not before buying anything. If not installed, I would go ahead and install it. I think you can accomplish what you want with subharness. If you feel you need to power more accessories then go ahead and get the eastern beaver 3 circuit solution. On my subharness, I have heated grips and led driving lights so far. Will be adding USB power and 12v shortly. I have a SAE plug wire connected directly to the battery for charging and other needs. Hope this helps.

I would definitely get the connectors to the harness as discussed here. Makes the install so much cleaner.

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/3146-corresponding-connectors.html






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The only issue I have with this is I don't know if the OEM sub-harness can handle the power reqs if I later decide to get a heated vest to compliment my grips. The grips I ordered use 2A max, the innov k1 uses 2A max, and a heated vest can use up to 7A by itself (the first vest I looked at, others may be lower, but probably not less than 3.5A). The sub-harness is fused at 7.5A, so I'd end up needing another solution anyway, and this one would be easy to access and modify later.

I will be getting some of those connectora for the sub-harness, though. Makes things much neater.

 

[DirtFlier]

The OEM accessory subharness is only designed to handle the Honda approved accessories so I'd worry about using it to power an electric jacket or vest. One of the connectors from my Eastern Beaver accessory unit goes to a Powerlet ("BMW type") plug on the handlebars and that line has a 15A fuse.

ps. does it really get that cold in Louisiana to require an electric vest?

 

[AsureDawn]

The OEM accessory subharness is only designed to handle the Honda approved accessories so I'd worry about using it to power an electric jacket or vest. One of the connectors from my Eastern Beaver accessory unit goes to a Powerlet ("BMW type") plug on the handlebars and that line has a 15A fuse.

ps. does it really get that cold in Louisiana to require an electric vest?

Sometimes. It doesn't usually get below about 40 (depending on how far north you are), but when it does, it feels pretty terrible with the moisture and wind. Recently the temperature dropped below 30, about a month ago.

Also, will be nice to have the option if I ever ride out of state.

 

[kumatae]

The only issue I have with this is I don't know if the OEM sub-harness can handle the power reqs if I later decide to get a heated vest to compliment my grips. The grips I ordered use 2A max, the innov k1 uses 2A max, and a heated vest can use up to 7A by itself (the first vest I looked at, others may be lower, but probably not less than 3.5A). The sub-harness is fused at 7.5A, so I'd end up needing another solution anyway, and this one would be easy to access and modify later.

I will be getting some of those connectora for the sub-harness, though. Makes things much neater.

Good call on amps. My plan is to use the sae plug I have directly wired to the battery to be used for heated gear if and when that time does come. I also plan to have another 12v cigarette adapter wired directly to the battery as well.

It's looking like I might as well have gotten eastern beaver 8 circuit solution and not deal with having to remove the side panels.


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[AsureDawn]

Ordered ChannelLock 909 Crimping Tool, variety of heat shrink, RioRand PWM motor controller, and BikeMaster T3 mirror adaptor (will mount custom bracket to this). If there's no further input on the wiring plan, I'll probably order those parts from EasternBeaver tomorrow or Friday.

Edit: updated plan--decided to use OEM for innov and/or aux lights if I ever get 'em, will have the second 3CS circuit used for frunk SAE and/or USB power.

Might order this pot, too. Probably would have already, but (1) not on amazon and (2) don't know if it matches the specs of the one that comes with the pwm controller.
Edit2: Parts ordered, will update once received. With this, should have everything I need to wire everything up. Also ordered some extra terminals so I can practice with the crimp tool before I put it all together, and an extra Sumitomo connector since I'll probably have to extend or replace the wires for the pot.

 

[AsureDawn]

Below are some photos I took of possible routing locations...


I plan to mount the 3CS and relay somewhere in the areas circled in orange. It's difficult to tell from the photo, but there's a small ledge, then two (reasonably flat) angled slopes.


I plan to mount the control/accy panel on the left side. Wires will probably be zip-tied to the left-grip control wires, then fed up from below.


These are possible routes for the wires up from the 3CS.
Green: The route I'll probably take for the heated grip power wires.
Pink: One potential route for the Accy/control wires from the 3CS/PWM controller.
Orange: Alternative route, following one of the large bundles up from below (will probably go up the other side, however).


There's space above the hose and behind the frame tube to route the lines for the 3CS from the battery compartment to the upper fairing. There's a small opening that's difficult to see without a flashlight on either side of the battery compartment where I could run the wires in.


There are unused tie-down points where I could attach a zip-tie to hold the wires as they are routed up through the fairing.

 

[AsureDawn]

First part of the kit came in:

(Mostly top to bottom, left to right...)

• Kimpex "Thumb Warmer" (lets hope that's not all it warms...)
• Generic black heatshrink kit (for those unimportant parts that you'd still like heatshrink on)
• Generic white heatshrink (25mmx5m or so, uxcell brand, to put under the grip warmers maybe)
• Generic PWM motor controller ("RioRand™ Upgraded 6V-90V 15A", shouldn't have to worry about overheating. )
• ChannelLock 909 Wire Crimping/Cutting Tool (C-c-c-combo Breaker!)

Now I'm just waiting on the 3CS and misc stuff from EasternBeaver.
P.S., please don't make fun of Kimmy Pex--at the very least, the heating element should be good.

 

[AsureDawn]

Went to Lowe's, got some 20awg wire and 22-16 awg ring terminals (they didn't have fork terminals in an appropriate size for the screws on the circuit board). Just wanted to make sure these were good crimps before starting on the real thing (I'll probably remove the insulation and just heatshrink over crimp):




Wires don't pull out with moderate force, so it feels good, just don't know if it looks like a good cold weld joint. Can't imagine using 22awg wires in these terminals--just seems way too big for such a small wire.

 

[670cc]

When the wire seems too small for the lug, I strip twice as much length of insulation, then fold the bare wire back on itself to put twice the amount of wire in the lug. It doesn't improve the current capability, but it fills the lug a little more for a better crimp.

 

[AsureDawn]

So I ended up splurging on that pot (and a knob for it):

Environmentally sealed (weather resistant), there's a positioning peg on the package; the knob has a set screw.
Came in 3 days after ordering, way overprotected but all recyclable packaging (except for maybe the plastic bags the parts came in, small blue ziplock baggies). Now I just need to borrow someone's soldering iron so I can swap'em out.

 

[AsureDawn]

Stuff from EB arrived faster than I expected, shipped on the 6th, arrived today (the 10th):


It's too dark to do anything now, and I still have to find someone with a soldering iron, but I'll check for fitment tomorrow and take some pics if I can manage both at the same time.

 

[AsureDawn]

Alright so, here goes...forgive the poor photography--it's difficult to get a good angle with all that plastic. I'd really like to just go naked on this bike, but I'm sure that wouldn't be great for gas mileage, and then I'd have all those exposed cables I'd have to keep clean. :/


Positive and negative wires attached to posts, loop down under the battery and out of the compartment ("BC") through the hole in the bottom right side. One of the two SAE cables are routed in through the hole in the bottom left side; for now that cable will just hang in there until I figure out what to do with it.

3CS cables routed under frame tubes, next to other wires. Should I tie these down to other wires or frame tube, or just let them float?

Tough angle here, but the 3CS pos/neg cables come up from below (over the radiator), and I loop the whole thing through the fairing tubes (up over the outside, then into the fairing and down). Eventually I'll install a tie-down (on that unused hole the cables go by) and a clamp (on the fairing) to hold it in place, but I'll leave it as is until I figure out how everything else will go.

A look at the same from above. Here you can see the 3CS cables running parallel to one set of SAE wires, and the fairing tubes running parallel to another set.

Speaking of, SAE connector from the BC comes up through the fairing with some of the other wires out of the BC. You really can't see the routing from the side, they're only really visible from under the front fairing.

The BC SAE cable is seen here zip-tied (loosely for now) to the fairing tube, going left-to-right toward the 3CS (see photo 4 above, it's the set running parallel to the fairing tube). The other SAE cable goes down from above the 3CS (photo 4), loops around the clutch cable and then follows it up toward the left grip.

There, it is tied with enough slack to loop back, where it'll be secured with an adhesive backed clamp to the accessory/control panel on the handle bar. I'm thinking that should leave enough slack for any movement by the clutch cable, and it'll allow me to move it elsewhere if I need to use it.

Todo (in no particular order):

• Add the connector end to the SAE cable going to the BC, this will be the unswitched cable.
• Splice the other SAE cable and the wires going to the PWM controller input together into two single wires (pos/neg), to be crimped in the connector. Should I use a larger wire here, or will I be fine using extra wire that I cut off the SAE cable?
• Tap the blue wire into switched power somewhere.
• Solder some wires onto the controller pot, mount it to the accessory panel, then splice them onto the original wires that go to the PCB.
• Make the accessory panel.
• All the heatshrink.

 

[AsureDawn]

Think I made a mistake...should the red sae wires go to the positive or negative battery post? Was thinking colored to colored, but then I started reading and now I'm unsure. :/

Going to have to figure out what tool I need to pull and swap the pins if it's wrong, or use the extra connector I got (but I'd rather not do that if I don't have to).

 

[670cc]

Think I made a mistake...should the red sae wires go to the positive or negative battery post? Was thinking colored to colored, but then I started reading and now I'm unsure. :/

Going to have to figure out what tool I need to pull and swap the pins if it's wrong, or use the extra connector I got (but I'd rather not do that if I don't have to).

In your photo, you have an exposed male pin on the SAE plug tied to the red wire. If that wire is connected to battery positive, then you have a problem. If the exposed male pin contacts any grounded metal on the bike (frame, handlebars, etc) then it will be arcin' and a sparkin'.

 

[AsureDawn]

In your photo, you have an exposed male pin on the SAE plug tied to the red wire. If that wire is connected to battery positive, then you have a problem. If the exposed male pin contacts any grounded metal on the bike (frame, handlebars, etc) then it will be arcin' and a sparkin'.

That's what I was afraid of. Guess I'll have to investigate disassembly of sumitomo mt-090 connectors. :/

 

[AsureDawn]

Getting there. Got the SAE wires in the correct side of the connector now (The Sumi 090 pins come out by wedging something between the pin and a little plastic clip, from the mating side inside the connector). Nothing really tight yet, need to find a place for the controller and route it's wires before finalizing everything, but I have the 3CS mostly secured (going to get some 3M hook-n-loop to hold the relay in place) and nothing is in a position to be pinched or melted as far as I can see.
The bigger size clips are too small for the largest wire bundles, and the smaller barely fits the two SAE sets, but they are secure. Used one on the pos/neg wires up inside the fairing, one on the neg wires coming from the relay, and one on the SAE wires.



Edit: put 30A fuse in main holder, no sparks. 7.5A fuse in unswitched circuit, tapped SAE on chassis bolt, no sparks/flames. Hooked tender up (after double-checking polarity of tender SAE plug), blinking green (+80% charge) in about 45s, solid green after about 45s more. Guess my bike's charging system is functioning properly.