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Advice for 1300 mile ride on brand new bike

Hey Flyboy, just a heads up. I was told you can't buy a brand new bike out of State and bring it into California. They won't register it because it doesn't meet California emissions standards. If you buy a bike out of state it has to have least 5,000 miles on it. I found this out when I was looking for my first bike a year or so ago. I found a sweet deal on one in Oregon, but didn't end up buying it since i would have had to ride it for 5,000 before California would have let me registered the bike.
 
FWIW I get lots of use out of this filter wrench.

IMG_8699-1.jpg
 
Riffraft said:
Hey Flyboy, just a heads up. I was told you can't buy a brand new bike out of State and bring it into California. They won't register it because it doesn't meet California emissions standards. If you buy a bike out of state it has to have least 5,000 miles on it. I found this out when I was looking for my first bike a year or so ago. I found a sweet deal on one in Oregon, but didn't end up buying it since i would have had to ride it for 5,000 before California would have let me registered the bike.
Click to expand...

Excellent point! Whether I could be certain of being able to register the bike in California was in fact my first concern when I started considering the out of state purchase. I understand the required mileage is now 7500 to qualify as a 'used' motorcycle that can then be brought in to California when lacking the California emissions certification. However in this case, the dealer has actually sent me photos of the emissions sticker that does show the bike he has in stock is California compliant,
and therefor legal to bring in to California and register as a 'new' motorcycle having less than 7500 miles.

Anyone from California reading this who is considering an out of state purchase should research the current DMV requirements and make sure the bike being
purchased has the appropriate California compliant emissions sticker to be registered as a 'new' bike if it does not have enough miles to qualify as 'used' under then
current DMV rules.
 
dduelin said:
It is an easy task changing the oil. Aside from the filter wrench you need a 17 mm wrench for the drain and a 5 mm hex (Allen head) driver for two bolts that hold on the lower fairing. Honda screws that original filter on really tight. As far as break in goes Honda simply says to avoid rapid full throttle starts and hard braking for 300 miles. Common sense and old school thinking leads us to vary the rpms during this time as well. I might pack a sheepskin or an Air hawk seat cushion in case the seat is not to your liking after a few hundred miles. Personally I get along OK with the stock seat but you may not.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the very helpful advice ... I haven't seen much use of odd mm fasteners on my Kawasakis, so this is really helpful! I've got a small strap wrench that I'll pack too for the oil filter -- on my Kawi's the filters are cartridges under a cover plate in stead of screw on style, so I probably wouldn't have thought to bring a filter wrench!
Click to expand...
 
Thank you all for the great information and advice. I only had a casual awareness that motorcycle oil was different from car oil, but now it much more clear how they differ!

Although I found this dealer through CycleTrader, I think they do have ads on Ebay as well which someone mentioned. Having worked out more details, I did in fact book my airline tickets today to fly out on the 6th. I'll arrive late that Thursday night, and one of the store's employees will pick me up Friday morning and drive me to the store in Shawnee. Expecting to hit the road for the ride home mid to late that Friday morning which will put me at 600 miles in Albuquerque on Friday night. I'll check with ABQ Honda dealers in advance to see if anyone can do the 600 mile service Saturday morning... but I'll bring oil and a filter from the Shawnee dealer just in case that doesn't work out for some reason and I have to change the oil/filter myself. I

'm likely to try to earn one or two Iron Butt Association certificates on this trip (SaddleSore 1000 = 1000 miles in 24 hours; Butt Burner 1500 = 1500 miles in 36 hours, though I'd have to take detours for the extra 200 miles; both can be done on a one trip) so I'll have to see if waiting around for a dealer to open and do the oil change would cost too much time...
 
L18flyboy said:
Anyone from California reading this who is considering an out of state purchase should research the current DMV requirements and make sure the bike being purchased has the appropriate California compliant emissions sticker to be registered as a 'new' bike if it does not have enough miles to qualify as 'used' under then
current DMV rules.
Click to expand...

Gee. You guys should move to the United States.;)
 
beemerphile said:
The Mobil1 contains friction modifiers which are not allowed by the JASO MA specification. Mobil1 does have motorcycle specific formulations. Some people buy the car oil thinking that the motorcycle oil is just a marketing gimmick with a higher price. Not the case here.



The MA standard does not address ZDDP levels. All JASO T 903 compliant oils, of which the MA and MB standards are sub-sets, have a phosphorus level between 800 - 1,200 ppm. ZDDP is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, and is the vehicle for providing phosphorus to the oil. It serves the purposes that you describe and has been limited lately by the EPA because phosphorus can poison the catalyst in catalytic converters if the engine is worn and has oil blow-by into the combustion chambers. Diesel and motorcycle oils have been exempted from this because they (in the past) did not have cat converters. You can probably expect a gradual lessening of the maximum allowable ZDDP as time goes on. By the way, the Mobil1 10W-30 "car oil", while not meeting the MA requirement for friction modifiers, would meet the JASO T 903 requirement for ZDDP levels.

Further to this, the MA standard is broken into two sub-categories, MA1 and MA2. You may think that MA2 is a later standard, but it is not. MA1 is the lower (slicker) end of the MA standard for friction performance and MA2 is the upper end. Oils with more friction reduction than MA are called MB. MB and unrated oils should not be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch. If you have concerns with a wet clutch slipping, a MA2 oil would provide greater assurance than an MA1 oil, even though both would meet the standard. An MA1 oil should provide a slight benefit in fuel mileage because of the reduced friction level so long as it doesn't slip your clutch. Honda says (by specifying an MA oil instead of a MA2 oil) that MA1 oil is acceptable.

Confusing or helpful?
Click to expand...

Really good stuff there on oils. If this forum site ever builds up a technical FAQ, this belongs in it.

I'm amazed that so many people try to second guess the manufacturers recommendations on oil types and viscosities. They seem to fall for marketing hype or misguided advice from others. I always say, simply just use what the owner's manual calls for, but as we see above that can be a bit confusing as well.

Thanks for the post, beemerphile.
 
I bought mine at Shawnee Honda yesterday, they guys were all talking about you flying in and making the trip home on it. Don't forget to tell them you saw the lower price online, they were pricing mine at $6999 not $6399. Good luck and safe travels.
 
Jeff762 said:
I bought mine at Shawnee Honda yesterday, they guys were all talking about you flying in and making the trip home on it. Don't forget to tell them you saw the lower price online, they were pricing mine at $6999 not $6399. Good luck and safe travels.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I've done most of the route planning and have some packing to do tonight. Then it will be a 2/3rd day at work tomorrow and then off to the airport to catch
the flight to OKC. I'll take copies of the email from them stating the price along with their cycle trader ad that originally caught my eye -- just in case.

I've decided I will try to have some fun on this trip and take a slightly longer route to see if I can in fact get the 1000 mile and 1500 mile Iron Butt certificates on the ride
home. I'll play it by ear and see how I'm doing with fatigue, weather, traffic etc -- quite ready to bail on that plan if necessary.

I'll try to take some pictures and post a ride report after I get home.
 
L18flyboy said:
Just a quick update... I did pick up the bike on Friday and made it back home. I'll post a trip report
in a day or two. Love the bike!
Click to expand...

AWESOME, looking forward to seeing the report. And glad you enjoyed the trip while saving $$$.


Peter
 
Just checking in real quick with an update .... lots going on has kept me from spending much time online or finishing my ride report.

This week the documentation from Honda arrived which included the Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin that I needed to
register the bike in California. Stopped at the DMV and completed the registration process, so now it is legally registered in CA.
Only 'problem' was during the vehicle inspection they had trouble locating the engine serial number. I was even a bit stumped
looking at the drawing in the owner's manual, but we finally found it.

I'll try to finish my ride report and get that posted.
 
L18flyboy, Im looking forward to your finished ride report. Back to the subject of motor oil, some may think that using automobile oil in a motorcycle is alright not so.Unlike automobile oil thats just used to lubricate the automobile engine. motorcycle oil must also lubricate the motorcycle engine, the transmission and the wet clutch plates. Automobile oils do not have the required additives needed in a motorcycle.
 
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