Auxiliary lights wiring options

[Buckeyeboy52]

I may have just missed it, but all the discussions that I've seen regarding auxiliary light installation had to do with light selection, mounting locations, switching, etc. I have selected my lights https://www.superbrightleds.com/veh...-light-10w-900-lumens+packamt-2-Pack+beam-30° and the brackets for mounting them to my Hepco & Becker crash bars.

My interest is in how to wire them. I want to wire them so that they are always on when the bike is running so I don't need a switch. How have you all wired your lights up? To an existing wire running to the taillights? To the fuse block? Did you include a relay? How did you route the wiring? I'm going to assume that 18 ga. wiring will be sufficient so it will be small-ish wires. IMHO simplest is best.

Thoughts, suggestions, anyone.

BTW...I am brand new to this site and already feel welcome. Thanks to everyone who welcomed me and/or liked my initial post.

 

[670cc]

The auxilliary lights on my 2012 are powered by the optional Honda accessory harness, then by a Skene Designs light controller https://skenelights.com/skene-iq-275x.html. The Honda harness power is applied when the ignition is on, via a Honda supplied relay in the Honda fusebox. The Skene controller allows setting the brightness of the lights in 10% increments, and has inputs to trigger up to three light levels.

So, how mine works is that when the bike is turned on, the auxiliary LED lights come on at 30% brightness for daytime conspicuity and not being blinding at night. When I hit my high beam switch, the aux lights automatically go to 100% brightness.

Honda has changed the configuration of the option power connectors, and the high beam signal voltage over the NCX model years. A solution that works for one model year may not apply to another model year. To get ideas for your particular bike, you should post the model year.

If you intend to use multiple powered accessories, I recommend something like the “Fuzeblock” product https://www.fuzeblocks.com/ for distributing switched and unswitched power to lights and other accessories. It contains a relay to power things when the bike is turned on, but also allows outputs to be easily configured for switched or unswitched power.

 

[Rabbit]

I used the Honda auxiliary harness. It’s the easiest way and I’m not very electric inclined. I had to wire mine for 100% on all the time because the electric input with the new LED headlight throws the switch control off. I used Denali DRL lights. They are very noticeable but not blinding to oncoming traffic.

 

[GregC]

The auxilliary lights on my 2012 are powered by the optional Honda accessory harness, then by a Skene Designs light controller https://skenelights.com/skene-iq-275x.html. The Honda harness power is applied when the ignition is on, via a Honda supplied relay in the Honda fusebox. The Skene controller allows setting the brightness of the lights in 10% increments, and has inputs to trigger up to three light levels.

So, how mine works it that when the bike is turned on, the auxiliary LED lights come on at 30% brightness for daytime conspicuity and not being blinding at night. When I hit my high beam switch, the aux lights automatically go to 100% brightness.

Honda has changed the configuration of the option power connectors, and the high beam signal voltage over the NCX model years. A solution that works for one model year may not apply to another model year. To get ideas for your particular bike, you should post the model year.

If you intend to use multiple powered accessories, I recommend something like the “Fuzeblock” product https://www.fuzeblocks.com/ for distributing switched and unswitched power to lights and other accessories. It contains a relay to power things when the bike is turned on, but also allows outputs to be easily configured for switched or unswitched power.

+1 on the Skene controller. Very easy install and use, and let's you integrate the aux lights with your regular light switch.

 

[Possummanj]

Thunderbox. Easy peasy. Made by Healtech.

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

The auxilliary lights on my 2012 are powered by the optional Honda accessory harness, then by a Skene Designs light controller https://skenelights.com/skene-iq-275x.html. The Honda harness power is applied when the ignition is on, via a Honda supplied relay in the Honda fusebox. The Skene controller allows setting the brightness of the lights in 10% increments, and has inputs to trigger up to three light levels.

So, how mine works is that when the bike is turned on, the auxiliary LED lights come on at 30% brightness for daytime conspicuity and not being blinding at night. When I hit my high beam switch, the aux lights automatically go to 100% brightness.

Honda has changed the configuration of the option power connectors, and the high beam signal voltage over the NCX model years. A solution that works for one model year may not apply to another model year. To get ideas for your particular bike, you should post the model year.

If you intend to use multiple powered accessories, I recommend something like the “Fuzeblock” product https://www.fuzeblocks.com/ for distributing switched and unswitched power to lights and other accessories. It contains a relay to power things when the bike is turned on, but also allows outputs to be easily configured for switched or unswitched power.

The auxilliary lights on my 2012 are powered by the optional Honda accessory harness, then by a Skene Designs light controller https://skenelights.com/skene-iq-275x.html. The Honda harness power is applied when the ignition is on, via a Honda supplied relay in the Honda fusebox. The Skene controller allows setting the brightness of the lights in 10% increments, and has inputs to trigger up to three light levels.

So, how mine works is that when the bike is turned on, the auxiliary LED lights come on at 30% brightness for daytime conspicuity and not being blinding at night. When I hit my high beam switch, the aux lights automatically go to 100% brightness.

Honda has changed the configuration of the option power connectors, and the high beam signal voltage over the NCX model years. A solution that works for one model year may not apply to another model year. To get ideas for your particular bike, you should post the model year.

If you intend to use multiple powered accessories, I recommend something like the “Fuzeblock” product https://www.fuzeblocks.com/ for distributing switched and unswitched power to lights and other accessories. It contains a relay to power things when the bike is turned on, but also allows outputs to be easily configured for switched or unswitched power.

Thank you for your input. I did get a "second" from another member regarding the Skene Design light controller.

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

I used the Honda auxiliary harness. It’s the easiest way and I’m not very electric inclined. I had to wire mine for 100% on all the time because the electric input with the new LED headlight throws the switch control off. I used Denali DRL lights. They are very noticeable but not blinding to oncoming traffic.

Thank you. That's another thumbs up for the Honda auxiliary harness.

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

+1 on the Skene controller. Very easy install and use, and let's you integrate the aux lights with your regular light switch.

Thanks Greg

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

Thunderbox. Easy peasy. Made by Healtech.

Thank you. I'll check out the Thunderbox.

 

[Possummanj]

Thank you. I'll check out the Thunderbox.

Thunderbox has easy connect wire ports-wire it direct to battery-turn bike on--the Thundebox senses that it is charging and the lights turn on after about 5 seconds--when you shut down the bike he Thundebox turns off the lights---you can wire other items to the same box.

 

[idealhobbies]

Thank you. I'll check out the Thunderbox.

I have 2 Thunderboxes on my bike. The first one is under all the plastics on the "drivers side" (USA side). Seemed like a good idea, ...until...i wanted to wire something else. I didn't feel like stripping it all down again to add another USB charger. So, what I did, (and someday, I'll remove the one under all the plastics), I took off the large plastic part directly in front of the frunk, that covers the key hole. 4 pop rivets and 4 bolts. Where I installed mine.... if you remove that plastic, on the "passenger side" you will see a large flat spot on a downward angle just below the air nozzle. I mounted the controller there. Above that, there is a flat spot that was big enough to hold the wiring blocks. I used good 3M double sided mounting tape to attach them down (had I thought about it, I would have used industrial velcro, not the fuzzy kind for easy removal if need be). I tucked the wires under the air nozzle and they snapped right in. I had to extend the power leads about 18 inches, and ran them down the side of the trunk to the battery box. The wire that I used extending the wiring was a little stiffer, so it made fishing them down the side easy. The cover goes back on without hitting anything. When I turn the key, nothing happens. Start the bike, everything turns on after about 5 seconds. Turn off the bike, and everything turns off after about 5 seconds. It's a wonderful thing. No more forgetting to turn things off. If I want to add something in the future, I just have to remove the one plastic part. 4 rivets, 4 bolts.

 

[yojimg]

I have the same lights on my bike...but I went with the 60-degree floods after trying the 30-degree version and finding the light pattern too narrow for my needs. I also wired them up using the provided accessory plug. Note that you need to buy and install a relay to enable this plug (Honda part 8A70-MGS-D30).

See also https://nc700-forum.com/threads/bare-leads-for-accessory-sub-harness.19698/



-Jim G

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

I have 2 Thunderboxes on my bike. The first one is under all the plastics on the "drivers side" (USA side). Seemed like a good idea, ...until...i wanted to wire something else. I didn't feel like stripping it all down again to add another USB charger. So, what I did, (and someday, I'll remove the one under all the plastics), I took off the large plastic part directly in front of the frunk, that covers the key hole. 4 pop rivets and 4 bolts. Where I installed mine.... if you remove that plastic, on the "passenger side" you will see a large flat spot on a downward angle just below the air nozzle. I mounted the controller there. Above that, there is a flat spot that was big enough to hold the wiring blocks. I used good 3M double sided mounting tape to attach them down (had I thought about it, I would have used industrial velcro, not the fuzzy kind for easy removal if need be). I tucked the wires under the air nozzle and they snapped right in. I had to extend the power leads about 18 inches, and ran them down the side of the trunk to the battery box. The wire that I used extending the wiring was a little stiffer, so it made fishing them down the side easy. The cover goes back on without hitting anything. When I turn the key, nothing happens. Start the bike, everything turns on after about 5 seconds. Turn off the bike, and everything turns off after about 5 seconds. It's a wonderful thing. No more forgetting to turn things off. If I want to add something in the future, I just have to remove the one plastic part. 4 rivets, 4 bolts.

Thank you for the details of your installation.

 

[Buckeyeboy52]

I have the same lights on my bike...but I went with the 60-degree floods after trying the 30-degree version and finding the light pattern too narrow for my needs. I also wired them up using the provided accessory plug. Note that you need to buy and install a relay to enable this plug (Honda part 8A70-MGS-D30).

See also https://nc700-forum.com/threads/bare-leads-for-accessory-sub-harness.19698/



-Jim G

Thank you for the part number for the relay as well as the link to the thread. There's a lot of info there.