TNtim
New Member
I got 69k on the NC... replacing the coolant with "Evans Waterless Coolant". Doesn't boil, doesn't build pressure, doesn't corrode engine, doesn't conduct electricity . Any comments or users?
Coolant...
- Thread starter TNtim
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dduelin
Site Supporter
Old fashioned glycol based coolants seems to do just fine for me.
My first reaction was, what is broken that we need to fix? But I'll keep an open mind and hear what this stuff can do, other than make money for Evans.
The maker's marketing says, "the boiling point is over 375*, . . . so it will not boil." I don't quite understand that logic. It has a boiling boiling point, so how can it not boil?
The maker's marketing says, "the boiling point is over 375*, . . . so it will not boil." I don't quite understand that logic. It has a boiling boiling point, so how can it not boil?
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Grey1one
Active Member
Probably cook a gasket and spray out before it gets to 375º.
Grey1one
Active Member
I don't know how much weight to put on it, but Jay Leno runs it in most of his cars. He says that since it doesn't have any water, which contains oxygen, which in turn promotes corrosion. During this weeks webisode he mentioned that the seal on one of the water pumps developed a leak, figuring it would be hard to take apart to repair. He said the screw holding the impeller, which on regular coolant is very hard to remove, came out with just a normal screwdriver and not much force. YMMV
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I'd wonder what are the ingredients. Does it contain silicates (bad for motorcycle water pumps)???
The marketing materials I saw stated that there were no silicates. Not that I have any interest in using the stuff, but that was one of the first questions I had.
dduelin
Site Supporter
Back in the day I owned cars with cast iron or steel engine blocks. A flush of the water jacket and radiator often was a torrent of brown rusty water with chips of rust. The water pump was also a steel housing containing a steel impeller. Jay Leno's collection probably has a number of older vehicles with iron blocks and I can understand a waterless coolant in a machine that does not get a lot of use. Water itself encourages corrosion so coolants containing water are mixed with glycol & other fluids as well as anti-corrosion additives. Properly mixed and maintained with glycol based coolant iron block engines do not rust or at least they rust so slowly that it is not an issue, engines don't die from overheating caused by clogged coolant passages like they used to.
It's different today. Aluminum blocks and cylinder heads are the norm in many cars and almost all motorcycles. While corrosion is still a problem over the long term engines just don't rust from the inside out anymore. What does happen is that aluminum distorts and warps precision machined surfaces very easily and it's very important not to run in an overheated condition for any length of time. At the same time automobile engine management systems have evolved to maintain engines in a very narrow band of operating temperature. This is necessary for emissions and fuel economy. If the engine is in good working order a mix of glycol, water, and an additive package does a fine job of cooling. Like 670cc, I'm not sure what problem needs fixing today with a waterless coolant product.
MZ5
Well-Known Member
Evans _is_ glycol-based. It's usually propylene glycol, but without water. Sometimes other glycols. I'm always concerned about lower specific heat than 50/50 since it has no water. Where I live, overheating is still a reality.
No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers
HarveyM
Active Member
I just glanced at the 'General Installation Intructions'
http://www.evanscoolant.com/Customer-Content/www/CMS/files/pdfs/Final_Instruction.pdf
While it doesn't boil it Burns at 240 degrees F.
You need a high volume low pressure air source to blow the existing coolant out of your engine.
You then need a 'prep fluid' to clear the system that you then drain to fill with the new coolant.
It seems a lot of work.
http://www.evanscoolant.com/Customer-Content/www/CMS/files/pdfs/Final_Instruction.pdf
While it doesn't boil it Burns at 240 degrees F.
You need a high volume low pressure air source to blow the existing coolant out of your engine.
You then need a 'prep fluid' to clear the system that you then drain to fill with the new coolant.
It seems a lot of work.
D
Deleted member 5383
"but will burn above 240°F (115°C) if a flame source is present"
Mi_ka
New Member
hmm, not so watery after all? what about sparks and fumes?
dduelin
Site Supporter
If the NC700X coolant system is in good operating condition overheating shouldn't be a worry.
MZ5
Well-Known Member
I don't do 'shouldn't' any more, since my previous commuter vehicle needed me to switch to nearly-straight water to prevent overheating. 
These days, if there's enough information I'll calculate how much capacity I have, and what I'll lose if I make a change. Absent sufficient info on the topic, I don't screw around with that kind of thing.
These days, if there's enough information I'll calculate how much capacity I have, and what I'll lose if I make a change. Absent sufficient info on the topic, I don't screw around with that kind of thing.
dduelin
Site Supporter
Sure, if the coolant system cannot operate properly you might have to take alternate measures. I've had vehicles like that.
