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Engine Stuttering ??? Advice or Thoughts???

lootzyan said:
Fuel filter is inside fuel pump (Service Manual 7-13, 7-14). You may consider removing fuel tank. It'd be better to access drain line and clean up tank (SM 7-9).
Click to expand...

Hopefully don't have to go there. Went through an issue on another bike that wouldn't idle and after trying many things went for the fuel filter. Far more work than NC to get at the filter. Filter was $100. Dissected old one was pristine after 50,000 miles of riding. Finally figured out a mod I had done was causing a belt to drag at idle resulting in the motor to stalling. :eek:
 
The symptoms strongly imply an electrical issue. Hopefully a quick disconnect-reconnect of the battery terminals fixes it!
 
Got home.

Checked battery connections and they were tight.

Drained what gas my syphon would get into an empty gas can. Probably around 1/4 gallon left in tank.

Added HEET to remaining gas and ran engine at fast idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Cooling fan came on when engine got warm.

Put one gallon good gas in that I had at house.

Went for a ride. After 12 miles symptoms were getting strong.

Loosened gas cap to make sure problem wasn't vent line. No affect on symptoms.

After 20 miles symptoms very bad. Stopped for gas and topped off tank with 2.7 gallons gas.

After 5 min gas stop symptoms reduced. Rode for 30 miles and symptoms got strong at times and less at others.

Out of time came home and parked NC.

Starting to think electrical as other issues with gas, injectors, fuel filter and such wouldn't come and go and definitely not change as engine warms up.

May have a little time tomorrow afternoon then out of town for 2 weeks.
 
Sorry for your troubles. I realize that any advice I might give may come under suspicion since the "great battery blunder" with my wife's bike but I would also check the air filter to make sure all is ok with that (not clogged up) and then the main ground on the bike.
 
silverhound said:
Sorry for your troubles. I realize that any advice I might give may come under suspicion since the "great battery blunder" with my wife's bike but I would also check the air filter to make sure all is ok with that (not clogged up) and then the main ground on the bike.
Click to expand...

Where is the main ground connected to the frame?
 
No suggestion. Just a question. Did we eliminate the fuel filter? It worked for a while after adding gas - that 5 minute stop. Could something be obstructing the filter but is dislodged after agitation?
 
Wcmike said:
No suggestion. Just a question. Did we eliminate the fuel filter? It worked for a while after adding gas - that 5 minute stop. Could something be obstructing the filter but is dislodged after agitation?
Click to expand...

My belief is the fuel filter wouldn't come and go. It would starve with limited fuel but not essentially shut off and then open as per my symptoms.
 
Fuzzy said:
Where is the main ground connected to the frame?
Click to expand...

Battery negative cable is connected to body of starter motor and you may call it as "main ground". There are at least 6 ground terminals (NCXD). You may see their location (some of them) on pages of Service Manual (U.S.) 1-61, 1-65, 1-69, 1-72.

View attachment 24531
 
If you have electrical connection problem (<=12V) it'd show in any condition.
The way you described it the engine stuttering happens when demand for the fuel is high, hence gasoline - air delivery problem.
There is one more problem hard to detect without diagnostic monitor with similar symptoms - high voltage ignition problem - spark plugs, cables or ignition coils (in this order).
 
Fuzzy, another thought being thrown out-check your side stand wiring connector-if loose or if the side stand is loose and bouncing up and down, this could cause stuttering, cutting out. Have you noticed it cutting out when hitting any type of bump (even the smallest)?
 
Change the spark plugs out first. Keep it simple. Some additives in fuel can cause the symptoms your describing. They coat the plug and cause a misfire under load.
 
Last edited:
lootzyan said:
If you have electrical connection problem (<=12V) it'd show in any condition.
The way you described it the engine stuttering happens when demand for the fuel is high, hence gasoline - air delivery problem.
There is one more problem hard to detect without diagnostic monitor with similar symptoms - high voltage ignition problem - spark plugs, cables or ignition coils (in this order).
Click to expand...

Most noticeable when on the throttle because the power loss from acceleration can easily be felt. Yesterday it stalled a couple times slowing down in 1st gear. Had to get to full stop for DCT to go to neutral to restart. (Can't shit to neutral if bike moving even in manual)

Unfortunately unable to work on it tonight and leaving town for 2 weeks in morning.
 
Have a nice trip.
When you return first thing you do is to take a look at spark plugs. This can give you some additional clue.
 
I may have the wrong idea about the symptom. I had taken a turn of phrase or two to indicate that the bike is not just misfiring on occasional power strokes, but rather that it's 'cutting out' completely for some number of crank revolutions at a time.

If I've misunderstood the symptom, then yes I'd be looking more closely at possible refuel-induced troubles. If it's what I was thinking originally, then I stick with the notion that this is electrical (which includes electronic).
 
Service Manual additionally suggests as possible
- faulty fuel pressure regulator in fuel pump
- faulty fuel injector
- faulty MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor

View attachment 24543

In cars I experienced a problem with false intake air which would degrade fuel mixture. Most of the time blown gasket under intake manifold.
 
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