fake air vent scoop

[L.B.S.]

Good idea~I'm sure you could match something that would work from here:
Pro-Bolt Quick Release 1/4 Turn Fasteners

Yup, I have Pro-Bolt on speed dial lol...

 

[bonnielover]

I was wondering about cutting a round or square hole in the flat plastic piece thats under the trim piece that we take off on the frunk end that we could drop in a small plastic round or square tub into with a snap on lid. Lid would hold it from falling through and it would be more waterproof. rj

I thank they would be a good spot to mount some powered Bluetooth (or hardwired) speakers.

 

[Gigs]

I just tied to see what fits in there, I managed a quart aluminum water bottle. This leads to the question can you shove and bungee a MSR fuel bottle in there. I suspect so. I may need to run to the sporting goods store and try this. If anyone has a fuel bottle pop the fuct off then feed the top of the bottle in from the front near the forks. If I get to it ill try and post pics later.


Gigs

 

[L.B.S.]

I just tied to see what fits in there, I managed a quart aluminum water bottle. This leads to the question can you shove and bungee a MSR fuel bottle in there. I suspect so. I may need to run to the sporting goods store and try this. If anyone has a fuel bottle pop the fuct off then feed the top of the bottle in from the front near the forks. If I get to it ill try and post pics later.

Gigs

Cool idea! I had only thought of going in from the top, and losing things out the bottom, lol.

People, whatever you do manage to put in there, make sure it doesn't slip out from below and disappear down the road. I got paranoid about my air pump, so I put it in a small waterproof rolltop bag from a camping store, and secured it through the Fastex buckle strap with a ziptie to a handy nearby hole in the inner panel.

I'm not positive on a bungee keeping a full fuel bottle from clacking and clunking around too much in there, unless it was otherwise secondarily secured or maybe wrapped in something? Great idea though

 

[BigGuppy]

in Black and White

View attachment 7214

Front Air Duct removal -- schematic from Service Manual:

 

[GregC]

I wonder if some dual lock could be used to eliminate the fasteners altogether so you could just pull the panel off?

Amazon.com: 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1/2 in x 6 Ft by 3M: Office Products


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[BigGuppy]

I wonder if some dual lock could be used to eliminate the fasteners altogether so you could just pull the panel off?
Amazon.com: 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1/2 in x 6 Ft by 3M: Office Products

I like that idea! I might still put a pin in the bolthole because that bolt seems to help hold the fairing flush.

I wonder if there could be some easy way to remove and reset the fasteners--like a filament loop around the center piece to help get the center piece popped out?

 

[670cc]

I like that idea! I might still put a pin in the bolthole because that bolt seems to help hold the fairing flush.

I wonder if there could be some easy way to remove and reset the fasteners--like a filament loop around the center piece to help get the center piece popped out?

Regarding the "fuct" cover, the screw at the rear does hold the fake duct tabs engaged forward and aligns the body work at the rear. The Honda push fasteners take all of a few seconds to operate once you've practiced enough. I could get the duct cover off in under 30 seconds as long as I had a screw driver handy, so I'm not sure that would need to be improved upon.

What I'm suggesting is that some practice and familiarity might alleviate the need for modification.

 

[ld_rider]

I wonder if some dual lock could be used to eliminate the fasteners altogether so you could just pull the panel off?

The adhesive will eventually fail in either very hot or very cold weather. Everything that I have used dual lock on (EZpass, TPMS indicator, Remote V1 controller, Spot Tracker, and more) has failed within two or three years, often sooner. That includes the super-uber heavy duty dual lock.

In hot weather the adhesive will simply melt and slide off, leaving a gooey mess. In cold weather the adhesive will snap off as you try to lift it.

Another problem is that the force required to separate dual lock is much stronger than the adhesive, even when installed and removed under normal conditions. That means when you try to pull them apart, they don't ;-)

Instead of separating, the two dual lock strips remain locked in a fight, and after a struggle between the two of them (as you try to pull off a panel) neither will give up and the adhesive simply detaches completely from one of the surfaces. Since the adhesive is a one time deal, you are then pretty much screwed.

After working on removing most of the panels on my bike I seriously considered 1/4 turn Duzs fasteners on all of them. I think that would be the way to go. Not only would it make removal incredibly easy, it would look pretty knarly ;-)

Here you can see a half dozen or so 1/4 turn Duzs allen head fasteners and a couple of slotted ones with tool-less rings:

 

[GregC]

I think there are different strengths of dual lock, and one mfg'r recommends replacing it every year for that reason. The bikes got enough storage for me that I don't need the fake vents, but if I did I'd be finding a quicker way to open those covers - my tools ride in the right pannier so pulling the screwdriver takes a bit of time.


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[vwhammer]

Well I bought a tire repair kit and a handful of el cheapo tools to squeeze into the "fuct" space but none of it will fit while it is in any kind of container.
I may try to open it up a bit and maybe close it off some so I can just drop the tools down in the space.
I am also looking at some knurled knob thumb screws to replace the Phillips head screw.
Something like this should work just fine and after a little measuring it looks like it might just fit.
McMaster-Carr
I don't actually know what size the screw is but you get the idea.

As far as the push lock fastener they are stupid easy to remove and replace.

For those that don't know, to remove them all you do is find something to press in the center of the pin.
The center will push down and the remaining part of the fastener will pop up.
Then just grab it and pull it out.
To replace it you just open the tabs while pushing a bit at the same time and the center of the fastener will pop back out beyond the rest of the fastener.
Place it back in the hole push the center down flush with the rest of the fastener and you are done.

 

[BigGuppy]

Well I bought a tire repair kit and a handful of el cheapo tools to squeeze into the "fuct" space but none of it will fit while it is in any kind of container.

I had to move stuff around in the new Stop N Go tire repair kit to make it thin enough to shove up in the fuct from the front. I moved the reamer handle out of its slot and slid it along the side, which made the whole thing a few millimeters less thick.

 

[BigGuppy]

Knurled replacements for fruct screws

SIX MONTH UPDATE -- THESE SCREWS RUST. DON'T USE THEM. SEE LATER POSTS

A couple weeks back I went out amd bought some knurled easier to remove screws. They work for me. Home Depot M5 - 32 x 14mm internal hex socket screws.



That said, what with the science of screw thread diameter and im not sure I got a perfectly snug replacement, and im not confident there isnt a better one out there. Caveat emptor (for .93 cents)

I do like being able to remove the fruct with my gloves on.

 

[potter0o]

A couple weeks back I went out amd bought some knurled easier to remove screws. They work for me. Home Depot M5 - 32 x 14mm internal hex socket screws.

View attachment 34584

That said, what with the science of screw thread diameter and im not sure I got a perfectly snug replacement, and im not confident there isnt a better one out there. Caveat emptor (for .93 cents)

I do like being able to remove the fruct with my gloves on.

Metric flange bolts, Full thread (DIN 6921), Zinc plated class 10.9 steel, 5mm x 0.8mm - Bolt Depot
Would a flange bolt make your life easier?

 

[BigGuppy]

UPDATE: knurled socket head cap screws - bad idea

Remember the idea to use knurled screws for the fuct holders to allow for tool-free access? Yeah, nice, I still like it as an idea. So six months ago, I found some and put them on.

My experience?

Over the last six months, the knurled screws I recommended have rusted. See the orange splotch in lower left of the pic below. Sorry.

Also, once I was done with initial futzing over a newly acquired motorcycle, I didn't ever feel the need to remove the fucts. Not with my fingers, not with a screwdriver. It just didn't come up.




Well, I'm learning as I go. I can't recommend the screws I listed above. Maybe there's an analogous rustproof version out there. A quick google search didn't reveal one, though it did reveal this other forum site's thread of derision for another guy with the same idea. (Thanks NC700-forum for being a kind place)

Quick lesson: Black Oxide is not rust proof...

 

[Heavy-H]

Well I'll be. I just took both sides off and they are equally unfilled. So what do we call these storage areas? We have a frunk, how about "fents" for false vents or "fides" for false sides? rj

I'd go with fides..... Lol
Good spot for a tire repair kit and small pump......