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Givi engine bars

Is the 10.9 grade the only bolts that should be put in?
Sent from my RM-860_nam_usa_100 using Board Express
 
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Here are the numbers for the engine bolts on the US spec 700x with manual transmission (not DCT). All are grade 10.9 M12-1.25 hex washer head bolts.

UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 7mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 17mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 46mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 30mm from face of frame flange to start of thread

The upper right bolt can be re-used on the upper left. I purchased three new bolts in 55mm, 70mm (65 was not available), and 90mm length.

The only comment to do is that the measures of my original bolts were a little bit different to the measures taken by Beemer. It is strange, although my bike is european (spanish) and equiped with ABS, I don't think these are enough reasons for the different bolts...

Below, the measures of my bolts:

UPPER LEFT: 35mm long bolt with 4mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
UPPER RIGHT: 45mm long bolt with 12mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER LEFT: 80mm long bolt with 48mm from face of frame flange to start of thread
LOWER RIGHT: 55mm long bolt with 23mm from face of frame flange to start of thread

A couple of washers here and there did the job pretty well, and the original upper right bolt was used for the upper left as well.

HTH

Can I also re-use the lower-right bolt for the upper-right?

When un-bolting, is it safe to have 2-bolts on a side un-bolted, since upper-right will be out first, followed lower-right (assuming it can be re-used)?
 
Can I also re-use the lower-right bolt for the upper-right?

When un-bolting, is it safe to have 2-bolts on a side un-bolted, since upper-right will be out first, followed lower-right (assuming it can be re-used)?

I don't know why you could not re-use the lower right bolt in the upper right position. Good catch. It looks like a senior brain lapse on my part that I did otherwise. Be sure to check the depth to start of threads in the hole and compare it to the start of threads on your fasteners. It is fine to have two bolts out at one time. Finish the right side before starting the left.
 
Can I also re-use the lower-right bolt for the upper-right?

When un-bolting, is it safe to have 2-bolts on a side un-bolted, since upper-right will be out first, followed lower-right (assuming it can be re-used)?

I don't know why you could not re-use the lower right bolt in the upper right position. Good catch. It looks like a senior brain lapse on my part that I did otherwise. Be sure to check the depth to start of threads in the hole and compare it to the start of threads on your fasteners. It is fine to have two bolts out at one time. Finish the right side before starting the left.
 
Is it ok to use a 20mm longer bolt and put a nut at the other end?
i would not do that. It wouldn't improve strength and the rear of the threaded bosses is not flat so the nuts would not seat properly. The small contact area might even increase and localize stress. Another problem with 20mm longer is that you might have problems getting enough threaded length to match the start of threads depth in the holes.
 
I can only find these black bolts. Sizes are correct. Am I better off using back the 4 original bolts?

EB51D1BA-2C34-4254-B967-30511F9927CF-1481-0000005D80EC44DD.jpg


Also, is it ok to use stainless steel washers with these bolts?
 
I can only find these black bolts. Sizes are correct. Am I better off using back the 4 original bolts?

Most important is to assure that they are grade 10.9 bolts and not 8.8 bolts. This should be marked on the heads. There are different black coatings used on bolts - some are ok and some are horrible for rust protection. I consider black oxide too rust prone to use on my bikes. I don't believe you will find any black oxide bolts used as OEM. I would prefer cadmium plated bolts but I would rather use black oxide 10.9 bolts in the correct length than keep the too-short OEM bolts. If the bolts you have located are 8.8 bolts, I would definitely keep looking. You can use the stock bolts until you find the correct ones so long as you get them installed before you crash test the bike.

Also, is it ok to use stainless steel washers with these bolts?

That is probably ok as washers only, but I would not do it. Stainless is not as strong as 10.9 and more dissimilar metals invite galvanic corrosion You will have stainless, aluminum, and carbon steel. Stainless is farther from aluminum in the galvanic series than cadmium is and would invite more galvanic corrosion. Stainless bolts (which you did not mention) should definitely not be used as they will not be strong enough.
 
Sharks, just saw 8.8 on the head. Guess all going into the spares bin. Lee, thanks for the advice as usual :)
 
I know this is an older thread but I just wanted to thank you. Spent last night putting these bars on and geez!!! I hope Givi doesn't do instructions for any medical procedures. Those were the worst instructions ever and I was at wits end until I found this thread. I'm ordering the replacement screws, it did strike me as odd that Honda would figure out the depth of the screw and Givi would guess that you don't need all that. Anyway, THANKS SO MUCH, safe riding.
 
Sorry fellas I'm a bit lost - I have a NC700 DXT (in the US).. Do I need just 3 total bolts (1 of each in 55,70,90mm in size) and a few washers to ensure the integrity of the install as per Beemer's suggestion?
 
OCR,

Did you notice any kind of new vibration when you installed the bars? I've read about givi bars and sw-moto bars creating a new vibration on other bikes, like the v-strom. I was just curious if anyone has the same experience?
 
Did you notice any kind of new vibration upon installing the givi bars? I put mine on this week and there seems to be a bit of a vibration. I looked around the web and other forums complain about vibration from the bars on other bikes like the V-strom. They've come up with a lot of fixes including BB's and foam insulation. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem.
 
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