How to open glove box without a key

[Beemerphile]

If you want to rig a back-up cable release, why not put the pull for the seat in the frunk (maybe behind the battery/fuse block panel) and the release for the frunk under the seat. I doubt that both releases would fail at the same time and that way the back ups would still be in a locked location.

Bob

You must be luckier than me Bob, or Murphy doesn't follow you around. A great idea actually.

I am thinking that most spectacular catastrophes involve multiple unlikely failures occurring simultaneously.

 

[duk2n]

i find that pushing down on all locking areas, seat, bags, trunk, and glovebox, makes them work alot easiler. it should keep the plastic parts from wearing as fast, and last longer too.

Tried. You're absolutelly right. Thanks for the tip

 

[Loomis]

Thanks for the thread.

Am I the only one that wishes that the key switch was actually a dual momentary switch hooked to solenoids? I guess that is why its only 7k. haha.

 

[Spaceteach]

Thanks for the thread.

Am I the only one that wishes that the key switch was actually a dual momentary switch hooked to solenoids? I guess that is why its only 7k. haha.

That would make for an elegant system, but I would still want a back up cable. Solenoids need power, and if the battery died or a fuse blew, you wouldn't be able to open the frunk to get to it.

Bob

 

[L.B.S.]

From my post in the "Anything you wish was different about the NC700X" thread of long ago:

"...But, since I also plan on trying to replace the NCX rear seat with either a cargo shelf or some clever fuel cell-like contraption, meh, I'll deal with the seat flip for now..."



I hope Mr. Murphy and his big bucket of irony doesn't dump on me with a stuck rear seat cable before my lazy self tries to follow through with this, haha!

I don't imagine anyone will be able to as nicely duplicate HondaBikePro's clever rear fuel cell when he builds one, based on his awesome skidplate work and general attention to all the other details seen on his bikes (and for sure not me lol) but I had a wistful vision of a rear seat removal/replacement from before even buying my bike.

It never really occured to me about a possible key/cable hiccup or failure making the cargo trunk and/or rear seat difficult to open. Since I had vague designs on even filling up the cargo trunk with another small fuel cell or a bunch of MSR bottles as well, (what can I say, I'm totally into Mad Max fuel carrying abilities) I will have to move this failsafe cable release stuff into a higher place on the To Do list...

Thanks for all the thinking cap ideas so far, guys!

 

[HONDABIKEPRO]

I worked on the new fuel cell yesterday and made the fifth templet for the floor of the cell with , the seat locks, and hinges , trying to get it as big as possible, and to totally fill the space up, and to hinge without hitting the fender or grab rails. I had the bike in the Seattle bike show friday threw sunday, and could not work on it. Already made the latch's, fuel out let fitting. the base is the hardest part, to make. I also had to practice for a hour on corner welding .050 5052 aluminum. The last complete fuel tank i made was for my xr650l it was .070 5052 aluminum and held five gallons.

I am going to run two safety stainless wires, just under the silver side scoopes, so all you have to do is remove the two push pins. pull back the scoops to access the wires. one on each side.

 

[L.B.S.]

I worked on the new fuel cell yesterday and made the fifth templet for the floor of the cell with , the seat locks, and hinges , trying to get it as big as possible, and to totally fill the space up, and to hinge without hitting the fender or grab rails. I had the bike in the Seattle bike show friday threw sunday, and could not work on it. Already made the latch's, fuel out let fitting. the base is the hardest part, to make. I also had to practice for a hour on corner welding .050 5052 aluminum. The last complete fuel tank i made was for my xr650l it was .070 5052 aluminum and held five gallons.

I am going to run two safety stainless wires, just under the silver side scoopes, so all you have to do is remove the two push pins. pull back the scoops to access the wires. one on each side.

Cool Can't wait to see your handiwork!

I am thinking realistically, my own poor sorry-ass effort will probably end up being simply a piece of steel bolted to the rear hinge mounts (taking the place of the entire seat), and attaching a RotoPax receiver onto the thing...

ie: it wouldn't be a fuel cell, but just a shelf platform to mount stuff to. It would be so cool to have a dedicated container that is connected to the OEM tank, but that's way too complex for me to attempt at present, drat!

Obviously I would fasten it on in such a way as to be sturdy and secure, without stressing anything. This may involve a framework of brackets or secondary mount locations, but that would be easy enough to do I think.

Haven't decided yet if I want to have it cover the underseat fuel cap or leave it open, so I don't have to move anything out of the way to fuel up. I'm leaning towards not wanting to cover up the underseat filler cap.

 

[Graeme]

Scooters have solenoids to open the seat/glovebox. As far as I see it we have the cables as backup just need solenoid to open fuel and glove box. Has anyone got the know how to build a kit for us all. The lock mechanisms move about 1/2 inch. I personally would love a switch to open the glove box while the electrics were on and locked when the electrics are off. ie key on/off.

 

[Spaceteach]

Scooters have solenoids to open the seat/glovebox. As far as I see it we have the cables as backup just need solenoid to open fuel and glove box. Has anyone got the know how to build a kit for us all. The lock mechanisms move about 1/2 inch. I personally would love a switch to open the glove box while the electrics were on and locked when the electrics are off. ie key on/off.

Honda uses a remote and solenoid system on the rear trunk of the Gold Wing. If you really want a solenoid system you could look up those parts and possibly rig up a system. The remote would be a really fine farkle, but the receiver for the signal is probably combined with other electronics in a seriously high dollar part. On the other hand you could just get the solenoid and a momentary switch and see if there was a way to mount and connect them on the NC. An automotive door lock solenoid may also be a possibility.

Bob

 

[CorEnFa]

I'm sure a cheap remote entry system for a car could be wired up for the frunk and back seat.

On another note, I'm worried about what will happen when I pull a bone-headed move and lock my key(s) in the frunk. :-O
It's only a matter of time. On my MP3, there was a "secret" pull cable that would release the seat without a key needed. A little risk, but nothing terrible.

 

[Cagedodger]

I'm sure a cheap remote entry system for a car could be wired up for the frunk and back seat.

On another note, I'm worried about what will happen when I pull a bone-headed move and lock my key(s) in the frunk. :-O
It's only a matter of time. On my MP3, there was a "secret" pull cable that would release the seat without a key needed. A little risk, but nothing terrible.

Not without a solenoid. The MP3 might have soiled you a little.

 

[CorEnFa]

Not without a solenoid. The MP3 might have soiled you a little.

Soiled? Or Spoiled? (Or both)?

It shouldn't be hard to put the solenoid in there along with some electronics. All told, maybe 2 lbs worth of kit.

 

[Cagedodger]

I guess it depends on how long of a ride you're planning.

That's what I get for trying to type on a tablet.

 

[ddsstt]

2. IF THE KEY WILL TURN CLOCKWISE AND THE GLOVE BOX WILL NOT OPEN. BUT THE REAR SEAT WILL WHEN TURNED COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
3. POSSIBLE LIKE MY BIKE, THE WHITE CABLE HOLDER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE KEY ASSEMBLY, IS BAD. THIS PART IS NOT AVAILABLE MY ITSELF, YOU HAVE TO BY A LOCK ASSEMBLY. HERE IS HOW TO GET TO THE CABLE TO OPEN THE GLOVE BOX
1. REMOVE THE TWO PUSH PINS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BLACK PLASTIC HOUSING THAT THE GLOVE BOX KEY GOES IN.

This is exactly the same problem I'm having at the moment. The seat does open, but the glove box won't. 2012 NC700S. Nice, huh.

Quite frankly, it didn't break in one moment. First, I had to make like 2-3 attempts, then it would open. But over time this became worse. Yesterday it took me like 10 minutes of remembering every cuss word in the universe to crack it.

 

[L.B.S.]

This is exactly the same problem I'm having at the moment. The seat does open, but the glove box won't. 2012 NC700S. Nice, huh.

Quite frankly, it didn't break in one moment. First, I had to make like 2-3 attempts, then it would open. But over time this became worse. Yesterday it took me like 10 minutes of remembering every cuss word in the universe to crack it.

Welcome to the forum, ddsstt

Sorry your first post had to be about a problem, though, lol

 

[Torquepen]

Perhaps a way of getting a dedicated plastic grease or lubricant onto those plastic parts may help over time?
If the white plastic section is breaking after a period then I'm wondering if the correct lubricant was used on it when it was assembled? Use the wrong stuff and it'll weaken the plastic. But plastic is supposed to be self lubricating so maybe none is used? I wonder if the cables have nylon inners to help with the key turn?

It's not unusual for new models to have issues with new lock mechanisms. I've known Ford to have quietly replaced a certain piece of plastic on a line of vans after it was found that a couple of quick tugs would open a locked door.

We should keep an eye on the design of this particular part - it way well change if Honda think it is a liability.
T
(NC700S)

 

[westgl]

+1 on the lube,

Are the cables going to these releases in any kind of bind from a poor routing, and putting stress on the part

 

[mreric]

am having this issue now on my brand new 2014. am still under warranty , so am going to let the dealer handle it.

seem like a very weak part. how many of you use this frunk every time you ride? how many of you had this issue?

should honda be notified?

 

[SergeantChuck]

am having this issue now on my brand new 2014. am still under warranty , so am going to let the dealer handle it.

seem like a very weak part. how many of you use this frunk every time you ride? how many of you had this issue?

should honda be notified?

I open and close the frunk several times a day. When I say several times a day keep in mind I have not driven anything but the bike to work since March 4th. Basically it gets heavy use. The first year of my bikes life it was stored outside in all weather conditions. I've not had one problem with the latch and I have not lubricated it in any fashion. After saying that it probably won't open tonight. LOL

 

[Todd L.]

My trunk also gets regular use every time I ride and zero problems. I do notice in the winter the key is harder to turn, probably because the grease on the cables gets thick with cold temperatures. Summer use the key turns very easily. I know some people have had problems with their keys too though, but mine must be made of a different material because they are very strong. Maybe some people overwork things or are a little too forceful with things?