How to Replace Chain, and Sprockets

[The_Drifter]

I thought somewhere at this site, Beemerphile had a really good tutorial about the process of replacing the chain and sprockets of the NC700. But I can't find it. Does anyone know where it may be? Or, is there a site that has a good turorial for this process? Thanks.

 

[L.B.S.]

I thought somewhere at this site, Beemerphile had a really good tutorial about the process of replacing the chain and sprockets of the NC700. But I can't find it. Does anyone know where it may be? Or, is there a site that has a good turorial for this process? Thanks.

Here is a chain thread by beemer, but I don't know if it's the one you are thinking of?

http://nc700-forum.com/forum/how-tos/433-drive-chain-maintenance.html

 

[Antarius]

I thought somewhere at this site, Beemerphile had a really good tutorial about the process of replacing the chain and sprockets of the NC700. But I can't find it. Does anyone know where it may be? Or, is there a site that has a good turorial for this process? Thanks.

Go buy yourself a good MotionPro or similar ChainBreaker tool.
Break the chain.
Take rear wheel off.
Unbolt rear sprocket.
Bolt new rear sprocket in place.
Remove front sprocket cover.
Unbolt front sprocket.
Bolt new front sprocket in place.
Place rear wheel back on bike.
Adjust "adjusters" so they are in the "new" position.
Place new chain on bike and mark where it's snug and correct.
Cut excess links off with your chain breaking tool.
Place chain on sprockets.
Rivet chain in place with your new chain breaking / riveting tool.

Victory!

 

[StratTuner]

I've done it once and plan to again... seems to need that about every 16K miles for me...

I remember...
-buying the $40 chain braking tool from cycle gear really made the difference. 'Couldn't have done it without that.
-having to buy a torque measuring wrench.
-buying an extension for my wrench as getting the bolts off the rear sprocket was very difficult
-using the "is the chain straight" tool and watching the video of how to use it
-wishing the little hash marks visible on both sides of the rear wheel arms (what are those called) made more sense. They don't seem to be woth much.
-buying the rubber guides that fit along the arm on the top and bottom. it seemed like a good idea to replace those too
- thinking "why did I ever think I could do this right" at the half way point

I think next time, I will take photos of the hash marks on both sides BEFORE disassembling. The little factory sticker that is meant to show chain wear was not put on in the right place for me, so it's also worthless... left it there just 'cause...

I remember how good it felt when I put it all back together, agonized over getting the rear wheel set straight, and it worked!
Wow, what a feeling that is!

 

[The_Drifter]

Thanks. I"m primarily concerned about using the breaker and riveting tool. Primarily, the specs concerning pressing the plate, and creating the rivet. I know You can under or over do it. I think somewhere Beemerphile addressed those issues.

 

[Antarius]

Thanks. I"m primarily concerned about using the breaker and riveting tool. Primarily, the specs concerning pressing the plate, and creating the rivet. I know You can under or over do it. I think somewhere Beemerphile addressed those issues.

The breaker is simple, you're going to pop the rivets out and then the chain comes apart. As far as riveting, all you want to do is make it "peen" or "spread" in a manner that it's bigger than the hole it fits in. That way it can't come out, pretty simple. It's okay if you go too far though, you'll just break the riveting link (just as you did to remove the chain), and will have to start over.

 

[StratTuner]

Thanks. I"m primarily concerned about using the breaker and riveting tool. Primarily, the specs concerning pressing the plate, and creating the rivet. I know You can under or over do it. I think somewhere Beemerphile addressed those issues.

in my life I would say "It's a ZEN thing.".... and I'll explain that by telling the story that explains that.

---- Lotus Blossom Story ----
A zen master once asked a young student "what is a Lotus Blossom?"
the student told him it was a flower that grew in the pond.
The master responded, "no, that's not a lotus blossom. Try again."
Puzzled, the student thought about it and researched a more technical description and described to the master what family it belonged to and what other flowers were relatives.
The master responded, "no, that's not a lotus blossom. Try again."
The student thought hard and returned later with a beautiful drawing of the flower from different angles, and got the same reply.
Frustrated, the student asked "OK, then. What is a lotus blossom?"
The master took the student down to the pond, near noon, and together they sat on the warm grass, felt the sun on their skin, watched the nats ripple the water around the flower, and looked on the lotus blossom with their own eyes.
Quietly the master said "THIS is a lotus blossom".
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, the point of this story is that some things can't be learned second hand. Riveting the chain, ultimately, is something you have to DO once to understand. I'm not discounting studying how and asking for advice... but "it's a zen thing". you can't know without experiencing it.

If that all seems like B.S., then I'll try to be more practical. When I finally got the rivet link in, I applied the tool to it, made two half turns on the rivets, then took it apart. I wanted to see if I could slip the chain apart at the rivet link. If you can, then you haven't "mashed" the rivet heads enough to keep them from sliding through the holes. I wasn't sure I had mashed down the heads enoug, so I put the tool on and made two more half turns.

If you take the tool off and find that the link won't bend at all at the rivet link, then you've "mashed" too much. That's the risk.

My link was just a little stiff when I bent it with my fingers but wouldn't come apart. That seemed right, and 16K miles later, it's still working.
I hope that the lotus story and maybe the practical part will help.
Thanks for reading.

 

[Wcmike]

Strat, thanks for that. I will keep what you said in mind when I replace my chain in a couple thousand miles.

 

[duk2n]

-using the "is the chain straight" tool and watching the video of how to use it

What tool and video are these?

-buying the rubber guides that fit along the arm on the top and bottom. it seemed like a good idea to replace those too

Do you need to remove the swingarm to replace the guides?

 

[duk2n]

Guys, what do you do to hold the front sprocket while applying the torque? Just one gear engaged?

 

[The_Drifter]

Duk2n,

When losening up the front sprocket, You want to make sure You still have the rear wheel and chain still attached to the bike. Then You can put some sort of post through the spoke wheels and wedge it there, while losening up the front sprocket. I was also told You would want the Transmission in Nuetral while doing this, so You don't put undue stress on the transmission. I've also heard about measuring the distance between the plates, and the created rivets, when attaching the master link. A little more research, and I should have this all down.

Here are some sites, that I found helpful.
KLR650 DID "X-ring" chain (riveted master link) install step-by-step walk thru - ADVrider
How to Replace and Rivet a Motorcycle Chain (DL650) - YouTube
How To Change/Replace Your Motorcycle Chain - YouTube
Howto: Replace Your Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets in 10 mins - YouTube
Howto: Replace Your Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets in 10 mins - YouTube

 

[StratTuner]

What tool and video are these?

Do you need to remove the swingarm to replace the guides?

I will attempt to find the tool and the video that says how to use it. I can't remember the tool maker at 5:50AM, but I will later.

The rubber guides wrap around the front end of the swing arm and are held in place with screws..
I didn't have to remove the swing arm to do any of this... good thing... or I might not have done it!

 

[The_Drifter]

I succesfully changed out my sprockets and chain today. The only problem I had was removing the Nuts that hold the rear sprocket to the hub. Even with a cheater bar, and hammer driven impact driver, I couldn't loosen them. In fact I cracked a 19 mm socket. Finally went to a motorcycle shop and had them remove them using an air impact rachet.

 

[Old Can Ride]

I succesfully changed out my sprockets and chain today. The only problem I had was removing the Nuts that hold the rear sprocket to the hub. Even with a cheater bar, and hammer driven impact driver, I couldn't loosen them. In fact I cracked a 19 mm socket. Finally went to a motorcycle shop and had them remove them using an air impact rachet.

At times you can not beat the impact driver. It is almost a must for some jobs.

 

[StratTuner]

I succesfully changed out my sprockets and chain today. The only problem I had was removing the Nuts that hold the rear sprocket to the hub. Even with a cheater bar, and hammer driven impact driver, I couldn't loosen them. In fact I cracked a 19 mm socket. Finally went to a motorcycle shop and had them remove them using an air impact rachet.

I admire your determination and for knowing when you need help from someone with a power tool. Well Done!
Did you torque the same bolts back on with the specd. torque values from the manual? I'm hoping that using those will make it easier next time.

 

[The_Drifter]

Did you torque the same bolts back on with the specd. torque values from the manual? I'm hoping that using those will make it easier next time.

Yes, I did. I didn't let the shop use their air rachet to tighten down the nuts that secure the new rear sprocket. Instead, I used my torque wrench and tighten the nuts to spec (which I believe is 80 foot lbs).

I used the Motion Pro PBR chain tool. That worked fairly well, and there are instructions how to use it on You Tube and also written instructions. I also used a digital Caliper, when pressing the plates of the master link. I measured the distance between the two plates on existing links, and tried to duplicate that distance on the plates I was pressing into place. I was alitle off, but that is because I got impatient. I also used a gold master link, on my non gold chain. That way, there is an easy reference point when it comes to lubing the chain (I'm not sure this was such a good idea as the thickness of the gold link plate is slightly different then that of the rest of the chain.). I had access to the Shop Manual, which was helpful when removing the front sprocket, and rear wheel. I used a broom handle to wedge the rear wheel when loosing and tightening the front sprocket. Having the Center Stand is all that is needed when setting up the bike. I also used approx. 1" old book to put between the rear wheel and ground when removing and installing the rear wheel.

The whole process is not very difficult if given correct instructions. The hardest part, and what slowed the process down for me, is getting the nuts securing the old sprocket off. Hopefully, I wouldn't have that problem the next time.

I hope this chain will last me about 20,000 miles. I've never had a chain from any bike that failed as soon as this one had. Bad links started showing up before 8,000 miles. I think I may service this new chain differently then I have with the past chain, and instead of using a spray wax, I'll try using 80-90, or 90 weight oil. That's what I used for my other bikes, I had.

 

[kumatae]

Duk2n,

When losening up the front sprocket, You want to make sure You still have the rear wheel and chain still attached to the bike. Then You can put some sort of post through the spoke wheels and wedge it there, while losening up the front sprocket. I was also told You would want the Transmission in Nuetral while doing this, so You don't put undue stress on the transmission. I've also heard about measuring the distance between the plates, and the created rivets, when attaching the master link. A little more research, and I should have this all down.

Here are some sites, that I found helpful.
KLR650 DID "X-ring" chain (riveted master link) install step-by-step walk thru - ADVrider
How to Replace and Rivet a Motorcycle Chain (DL650) - YouTube
How To Change/Replace Your Motorcycle Chain - YouTube
Howto: Replace Your Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets in 10 mins - YouTube
Howto: Replace Your Motorcycle Chain and Sprockets in 10 mins - YouTube

Thanks Drifter! I changed my sprocket out to 17T and had hard time taking the front sprocket nut off. I searched and found this thread and your post and it got the job done. Here's a picture of what he is talking about.

And to tighten the nut

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MiG Angel]

I do what kumatae does but with a 2x4.

 

[dduelin]

Broom stick.

 

[tdc_erock]

I've got a new chain and sprockets, and all the tools, in the garage just waiting for me to attempt my first DIY chain and sprocket change. Hope I can break the front sprocket free and get through this!