rippin209
Well-Known Member
For the front sprocket I have my son sit on the bike and hold the rear brake
How to Replace Chain, and Sprockets
- Thread starter The_Drifter
- Start date
rippin209
Well-Known Member
Every project on the bike that's a first is intimidating for me, once you get started you find your way. It sounds like you've done your research and are prepared with the right tools it'll be fine, take your time and when in doubt look here or online if all else fails check the repair manual lol
1wiseguy2
Member
I bought the RK chain breaker. Awesome with good instructions. I have seen it for $90 dollars.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
1wiseguy2
Member
On my manual bike I put it in first gear. With a DCT I put a wood block in to stop it.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
On my bike, DCT, I engage the DCT parking brake and then tie the rear brake down with some cord to the centerstand.
There are a lot of crappy chain tools out there, I bought this one and it worked okay.
Amazon.com: Pit Posse PP309 Motorcycle Chain Cutter Breaker Riveting Rivet Tool: Automotive
You'll need a grinder tool to take off the head of the pin you plan on pushing out. I bought this one, plus a disc, plus some eye protection:
4-1/2 in. 4.3 Amp Angle Grinder
There are a lot of crappy chain tools out there, I bought this one and it worked okay.
Amazon.com: Pit Posse PP309 Motorcycle Chain Cutter Breaker Riveting Rivet Tool: Automotive
You'll need a grinder tool to take off the head of the pin you plan on pushing out. I bought this one, plus a disc, plus some eye protection:
4-1/2 in. 4.3 Amp Angle Grinder
tdc_erock
New Member
Here's how far I made it yesterday - was able to break free the front sprocket bolt in neutral while stepping on rear brake. Chain broken easily with the cheap chain tool / riveter kit I have. Pin pushed through without grinding. Real wheel off, no problem. Rear sprocket change, no problem. Front sprocket change, no problem. I forgot about the (I think it's the...) spacer inside the wheel and it fell out (chain side) while I was reinstalling - pretty sure I put it back in there the right way but I'll double check that by looking in the service manual.
I had a good bit of trouble with the master link. Getting the plate on, aligning the tool, pressing it, etc. Took a while and now I'm not sure I mushroomed it enough. It was getting late so I stopped there. I need to check on that tonight. Then all that should be left is to adjust the tension and put the front sprocket cover and chain guard back on.
If I failed, well, the shop where I normally get service done does pickup and delivery, and since I don't know if any maintenance was EVER done on this thing (just got it - see intro post) at some point I'll take it in for a brake fluid and coolant change, and valve check.
Edit: I'll start posting in another thread as this is the How To... sorry to post here - just realized I'm not contributing much in the way of How To!
I had a good bit of trouble with the master link. Getting the plate on, aligning the tool, pressing it, etc. Took a while and now I'm not sure I mushroomed it enough. It was getting late so I stopped there. I need to check on that tonight. Then all that should be left is to adjust the tension and put the front sprocket cover and chain guard back on.
If I failed, well, the shop where I normally get service done does pickup and delivery, and since I don't know if any maintenance was EVER done on this thing (just got it - see intro post) at some point I'll take it in for a brake fluid and coolant change, and valve check.
Edit: I'll start posting in another thread as this is the How To... sorry to post here - just realized I'm not contributing much in the way of How To!
rippin209
Well-Known Member
don't forget alignment when adjusting tension. I ruined a chain pretty quick because of not getting that correct
1wiseguy2
Member
That is why I love the RK chain breaker and master link tool. When putting on the new side plate RK has a plate you put in the tool. Press the plate on and it only allows the plate to be pushed to the exact depth that is needed. Then take plate out then stake the rivet measuring several times as you go. Perfect every time and with master links costing $10 a shot I think it is worth it.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
tdc_erock
New Member
Found these links with some info from DID.
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID Chain Tool Inst_150.pdf
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID_2014usa_final.pdf
One has flare dimensions in inches and one in mm. For the VX2, it says 5.5 to 5.8 mm or .217 to .228 inches. Since I didn't measure the pin before I attempted to flare it, I assume it's safe to go buy a digital caliper to measure and use these measurements. (Correct me if I'm wrong please) - Does anyone happen to know the diameter of the pin before flaring?
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID Chain Tool Inst_150.pdf
http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID_2014usa_final.pdf
One has flare dimensions in inches and one in mm. For the VX2, it says 5.5 to 5.8 mm or .217 to .228 inches. Since I didn't measure the pin before I attempted to flare it, I assume it's safe to go buy a digital caliper to measure and use these measurements. (Correct me if I'm wrong please) - Does anyone happen to know the diameter of the pin before flaring?
Last edited:
Antarius
Site Supporter
No, I don't. But, it doesn't take much at all to flare it enough to prevent the link from coming out. I usually eyeball it and compare it to the other flattened links.
1wiseguy2
Member
Digital caliper is great. So easy my 11 yr can do it... with some guidance!
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Similar threads
