I did something dumb...

[GunNut37086]

A few weeks ago I was pulling my NC into the garage after commuting home. I was just sitting there on my bike. I'd taken of my gloves, jacket, etc., but not my helmet yet, because I was finishing a scene in an audiobook. Well, I stepped off the bike and down she went. Yep, I had forgotten to put the sidestand down. Funny how that small break in my routine made me forget something so basic.

Luckily I only did minor damage to the bike, but I tweaked my wrist trying to stop the fall and it's still sore. I bent the gear selector, curled the end of the clutch lever, and scratched the bar end...nothing major. I was able to fix the bent gear shifter, but had to order a new clutch lever. Who cares about a scratch on the bar end?

I told you that to tell you this:

I got a new set of adjustable/folding levers in the mail and when I went to install them I noticed my clutch screw was already partially unscrewed. The cap nut had fallen off and the screw had backed out. Luckily I was already changing levers or I may not have noticed until something bad happened. With an improvised cap nut and the new levers installed and adjusted to my liking it was time to test ride...only, my bike wouldn't start.

I figured my clutch wasn't adjusted enough to trip the clutch switch so I played with it for an hour trying to get it to work. Nothing! My bike will only start in neutral. I did some testing and inspecting and my clutch switch is broken. I'm guessing the cap nut fell off, the screw backed out, and using the clutch without noticing sheared off the plunger on the switch. So, I can only start my bike in neutral until the part arrives.

...confession is good for the soul, even if it's embarrassing. On a scale of 1 to 10, how dumb was this mistake?

 

[GunNut37086]

BTW...any chance I should try to get the dealer to replace the switch for me under warranty?

I'm guessing they won't with aftermarket levers. Even if I switch back to the stock levers, the cap nut was the culprit, which is my fault for not torquing it down tighter. It'd feel kind of wrong asking them to cover the cost of the repair.

Your honest thoughts and opinions would be welcome, that's why I asked.

 

[L.B.S.]

You're not alone, and never will be, as far as doing something not brilliant lol

Personally, I would not try for a warranty fix.

 

[dduelin]

There have been a few threads on DCT forums about aftermarket levers not being compatible with the clutch interlock switch. Are you sure it's the switch and not the lever?

PS, in the world of dumb mistakes I've led the way. Yours is nothing to be ashamed of.

 

[670cc]

I leaned an ST1100 over onto a ghost side stand once, and like you, I was out of the usual routine. Nothing got broken, but I adopted a new, mandatory procedure that has worked for me ever since then. I now have the habit of always looking down at the sidestand as I lean the bike over to park it. Leaning it over without looking down at the stand is not allowed.

 

[potter0o]

I was prepping the bike for a class. It was late and I was rushing to finish. Was checking the chain slack and rolling the bike forward. In my rush I didn't notice I had bumped the side stand. When I tried to put the bike on the stand, it just kept going down. I tried to save it. I suppose I did save it from hitting the ground by having it pin me to the ground. I think I probably could have gotten it off me but at this point I tossed my pride away and yelled for the spouse to come rescue me.

I have copied something that 670cc mentioned and now always kick the stand forward to check if it is fully in position.

I don't want to focus on the scale of dumbness. Lets call it experiences we have learned valuable lessons from

 

[GunNut37086]

There have been a few threads on DCT forums about aftermarket levers not being compatible with the clutch interlock switch. Are you sure it's the switch and not the lever?

PS, in the world of dumb mistakes I've led the way. Yours is nothing to be ashamed of.

Despite the evidence of mentally-challenged KSU maneuver, I'm fairly positive the switch is my problem. The original replacement lever doesn't work either AND with the lever removed I can see the pressure switch inside. The plunger is definitely gone and I can see the cross-section of what's left of the plunger where it's clearly been broken off.

On the upside, I like my new levers, a new switch is only $13-14, and I learned my lesson about Loc-tite and torque.

 

[L.B.S.]

Despite the evidence of mentally-challenged KSU maneuver, I'm fairly positive the switch is my problem. The original replacement lever doesn't work either AND with the lever removed I can see the pressure switch inside. The plunger is definitely gone and I can see the cross-section of what's left of the plunger where it's clearly been broken off.

On the upside, I like my new levers, a new switch is only $13-14, and I learned my lesson about Loc-tite and torque.

Also beware that some of the aftermarket front brake levers do not operate the brake light micro switch as precisely as it needs to be, so for sure double check that the new lever makes the brake light go on/off.

My new no name brand e-bay levers I installed years ago, while beautifully machined billet anodized aluminum are top notch quality looking, have *juuuust* enough of a deviation from the exact angle needed, that the brake side didn't interface correctly with the little micro switch nubbin. I had to remove the switch, cut off the locater peg, and remount the switch at a fraction more of a degree to meet the lever at the proper 90* angle before it would activate the on/off for the brake light.

Something to check while you're at it, just in case.

 

[GunNut37086]

Also beware that some of the aftermarket front brake levers do not operate the brake light micro switch as precisely as it needs to be, so for sure double check that the new lever makes the brake light go on/off.

My new no name brand e-bay levers I installed years ago, while beautifully machined billet anodized aluminum are top notch quality looking, have *juuuust* enough of a deviation from the exact angle needed, that the brake side didn't interface correctly with the little micro switch nubbin. I had to remove the switch, cut off the locater peg, and remount the switch at a fraction more of a degree to meet the lever at the proper 90* angle before it would activate the on/off for the brake light.

Something to check while you're at it, just in case.

I don't know if mine are the same as yours. My levers are these no name brand eBay levers. I like them pretty good so far and since I have short fingers, they are a big improvement on reach.

I made sure the brake light came on before I test drove the levers, but now you have me second-guessing their reliability. Do you think the issue you had would present itself from the get-go or do you think it could be an intermittent kind of thing I need to constantly keep an eye out for?

 

[L.B.S.]

I don't know if mine are the same as yours. My levers are these no name brand eBay levers. I like them pretty good so far and since I have short fingers, they are a big improvement on reach.

I made sure the brake light came on before I test drove the levers, but now you have me second-guessing their reliability. Do you think the issue you had would present itself from the get-go or do you think it could be an intermittent kind of thing I need to constantly keep an eye out for?

I can't remember the name of where I got mine (actually I bought a second pair from a totally different company after discovering my first set's brake lever didn't quite match up as it was supposed to, and sure enough, the second set were identical to the first, and the brake lever didn't match up perfectly either, lol)

I suspected all the sellers got the same damn levers from one giant vendor that makes them all, at that point...


Can't really say about the over time consistency without actually holding/looking at the levers in person. It's too tough to tell with just pictures, not matter how close or good they are. It's all about the angle the lever's nubbin hits the micro switch plunger. It may activate the switch, but be doing it on a bit of a wonky angle.

That's what mine did, instead of hitting the plunger flush, it hit it in a sweeping action, which eventually torqued the plunger sideways enough to break it. (insult to injury, as it wasn't activating the on off function after maybe a few days, I belatedly discovered anyway)

Purchased the new lever set, and a new micro switch. Found out upon close inspection the same thing was not working, (swore a lot) and at that point did the micro switch modification. :/

Live and learn lol

 

[dduelin]

I can't remember the name of where I got mine (actually I bought a second pair from a totally different company after discovering my first set's brake lever didn't quite match up as it was supposed to, and sure enough, the second set were identical to the first, and the brake lever didn't match up perfectly either, lol)

I suspected all the sellers got the same damn levers from one giant vendor that makes them all, at that point...


Can't really say about the over time consistency without actually holding/looking at the levers in person. It's too tough to tell with just pictures, not matter how close or good they are. It's all about the angle the lever's nubbin hits the micro switch plunger. It may activate the switch, but be doing it on a bit of a wonky angle.

That's what mine did, instead of hitting the plunger flush, it hit it in a sweeping action, which eventually torqued the plunger sideways enough to break it. (insult to injury, as it wasn't activating the on off function after maybe a few days, I belatedly discovered anyway)

Purchased the new lever set, and a new micro switch. Found out upon close inspection the same thing was not working, (swore a lot) and at that point did the micro switch modification. :/

Live and learn lol

This is what I was referring to in post #4.

 

[GunNut37086]

I can't remember the name of where I got mine (actually I bought a second pair from a totally different company after discovering my first set's brake lever didn't quite match up as it was supposed to, and sure enough, the second set were identical to the first, and the brake lever didn't match up perfectly either, lol)

I suspected all the sellers got the same damn levers from one giant vendor that makes them all, at that point...


Can't really say about the over time consistency without actually holding/looking at the levers in person. It's too tough to tell with just pictures, not matter how close or good they are. It's all about the angle the lever's nubbin hits the micro switch plunger. It may activate the switch, but be doing it on a bit of a wonky angle.

That's what mine did, instead of hitting the plunger flush, it hit it in a sweeping action, which eventually torqued the plunger sideways enough to break it. (insult to injury, as it wasn't activating the on off function after maybe a few days, I belatedly discovered anyway)

Purchased the new lever set, and a new micro switch. Found out upon close inspection the same thing was not working, (swore a lot) and at that point did the micro switch modification. :/

Live and learn lol

If I wasn't already having second thoughts about replacement levers, I am now...for sure. This may turn into a "clutch/brake lever for sale" thread in a minute, LOL.

 

[bvogel7475]

Back to your original question about dropping your bike. Maybe a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10. In 30 years I have never dropped my bike due to your oversight. I always look down at the kickstand before I get off the bike. However, I accidentally got my foot stuck on the peg and dropped my bike at a stoplight and that was very embarrassing. So, at least you dropped it in the privacy of your own garage/property...

 

[GunNut37086]

I can't remember the name of where I got mine (actually I bought a second pair from a totally different company after discovering my first set's brake lever didn't quite match up as it was supposed to, and sure enough, the second set were identical to the first, and the brake lever didn't match up perfectly either, lol)

I suspected all the sellers got the same damn levers from one giant vendor that makes them all, at that point...


Can't really say about the over time consistency without actually holding/looking at the levers in person. It's too tough to tell with just pictures, not matter how close or good they are. It's all about the angle the lever's nubbin hits the micro switch plunger. It may activate the switch, but be doing it on a bit of a wonky angle.

That's what mine did, instead of hitting the plunger flush, it hit it in a sweeping action, which eventually torqued the plunger sideways enough to break it. (insult to injury, as it wasn't activating the on off function after maybe a few days, I belatedly discovered anyway)

Purchased the new lever set, and a new micro switch. Found out upon close inspection the same thing was not working, (swore a lot) and at that point did the micro switch modification. :/

Live and learn lol

I want to thank you again for planting the seed of doubt in my head about the new levers. I paid closer attention on my way to/from work today and noticed some up/down play in the lever that I had initially attributed to the folding mechanism. It's just loose enough inside the bracket that the contact point on the lever would hit the switch plunger wrong just like you said. I'm so glad I read your post again and took a 2nd look. You almost certainly saved me at least one extra clutch switch. I took the replacement levers off and put the stock levers back on this evening...not worth the risk, even though they were comfy as hell.

 

[GunNut37086]

I just installed the new clutch lever switch and it still won't start in 1st with the clutch disengaged. I tried bridging the 2 plugs with a wire to see if it'd start. I tried taking the switch completely out with the plugs plugged into the switch and the plunger depressed. None of that worked.

I'm dumbfounded as to what else could be the problem. My bike started fine for 2 or 3 weeks after I dropped it and aside from the screw/cap nut thing, nothing is different other than I switched levers then switched back.

My dealer already warned me the first time I asked them to take a look at something that I'd be without a bike for at least 10 days while they ran diagnostics. I'd rather start it in neutral every time than to do without a bike for that long. Worst-case scenario, I wait til winter to let them work on it. That way I won't miss it so much.

Anyone have any better advice?

 

[drstimpy]

It's your side stand switch. If the bike starts in neutral, the clutch switch is fine.


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