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Jerky Throttle

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Does anyone elses throttle seem really jerky upon initial input and when letting off?
If I am rolling between 25 and 35mph in 1st through 4th gear and I let off the throttle it tends to make the bike slow quite rapidly.
Then unless I roll on the throttle really slowly it makes it jerk forward.
It's not a dangerous amount of either but it gets real anoying in city traffic.
It just seems like it is overly sensitive to throttle input at slower speeds.
It could need some adjusting in the cables perhaps but it seems the cush drive should smooth some of that jerky buisiness.
I have ridden plenty of bikes over the last 20 years and I don't recall anything like this or it ever being this annoying.
Does this seem familiar to anyone?
 
Hmm yes. I wondered if there was something like that out there. Most probably don't do too much off roading on their NCXs
However' this situation also becomes an issue when I am doing slower off road stuff when I am not slipping the clutch.
It becomes especially problematic while standing off road.
 
I'm thinking about adding the above throttle tamer. Mainly for riding in 1st gear on gravel. Sometimes when I hit a bump while standing I get a burst of throttle and spin the rear wheel!
 
I've mentioned a few times that I've got the G2 Dirt Tamer on my WR250R, and it does indeed markedly improve low throttle transitions. Definitely a good bet for anyone who wants finer-grained control at the bottom end.
 
I've nevered noticed the throttle response to be abrupt. However a practice I do subconsciously is to pull the clutch lightly to smooth the transition from off to on throttle.

Chain slack can also play a roll in the jerkiness of throttle transitions.
 
It's not really abrupt, but with FI in general the response is more obvious. But if one does a lot of riding at the bottom end of the scale -- especially in rougher terrain in lower gears (in addition to learning more clutch finesse) it's good to have the throttle twist for the low range spread out over a bit more rotation. With the G2 that is supplied -- and then things ramp up more as one approaches half throttle...
 
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The chain slack does not seem too excessive but I have not actually measured it or anything like that.
I have some new sprockets and chain that I will be installing when I put my taller tires on so I figured I would get all that set up then.

I do have a set of handguards I purchased from G2 that I need to return.
I guess I will do that and get one of those throttle tamers
 
Think it depends what your use to............the NC throttle and FI is generally very well mannered. Magazine writeups often comment on bikes with bad FI manners like abrupt, snatchy, lean stumped, constant throttle surging etc
 
Why I haven't put a G2 Tamer on on my NC yet: the NC's got a lot more torque down low than my WR and with good clutch work it meets my current needs as the NC sees less challenging terrain. But I'll probably add it to the NC at some point because the improvement is obvious. It really makes transitions smoother from slow crawl to getting it on (and vice versa) -- and anywhere between. You don't need much granularity above 1/3 of WOT, but if you spend much time below it...
 
I've always ridden with my trigger and middle fingers resting on the brake lever.
This braces the throttle and am very uncomfortable holding the throttle any other way.
Getting to the brakes quickly is an added benefit.
 
Ah, I was hoping someone else noticed this... the throttle tamer sounds pretty nice. I'm skeptical that it's chain or sprocket issues, but more just lack of refinement in the throttle control and transition areas.


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?????

No, never noticed it, on the contrary Honda did a very good job fueling the NC especially given it runs so lean.
 
The Throttle Tamer has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture and physically does the same no matter how the EFI is mapped however. It simply changes the correspondence of throttle tube rotation from a more linear relationship when moving the throttle cables, to to one that's not linear. More twist is required to get to 1/3 or 1/2 WOT than there was before, which allows a lot more subtlety of control when at lower RPM and speed.
 
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Well I sent my hand guards back to G2 and already placed an order for the throttle tamer so I guess we will see what happens.

I wonder how the tamer will work out with throttle blips to downshift.

I had a Porsche 944 that had a non-linear cam on the throttle and it always annoyed me how long it seemed to take rev the engine to rev match for downshifts.

It took some getting used to.

I will say though that this engine revs pretty quick so I don't think it will be too much of a problem.
I got used to it with the Porsche and I am sure I will sort it out with the NCX.
 
like so many threads, gotta say that it's not so clear what the actual problem, description seems pretty vague... and it's hard to see what the solution would be, if the problem isn't diagnosed, tracked down and then understood. I know the G2 Throttle Tamer can be of benefit ferinstance in some cases and for some uses... but I don't know if it actually addresses the problem the thread is about ; }
 
The engine does rev up pretty quick when you're out of gear, but I've never had any issues when in gear. When I hit a bump I sometimes let the throttle out a bit, actually. I think it comes down to how you grip the throttle and your posture on the bike, but the throttle tamer should help reduce the problem without changing posture or adjusting bar height/angle, etc..
 
The Throttle Tamer has nothing to do with air/fuel mixture and physically does the same no matter how the EFI is mapped however. It simply changes the correspondence of throttle tube rotation from a more linear relationship when moving the throttle cables, to to one that's not linear. More twist is required to get to 1/3 or 1/2 WOT than there was before, which allows a lot more subtlety of control when at lower RPM and speed.
A snatchy throttle may not have anything to do with air/fuel ratio but it has everything to do with how the fueling is right off the bottom, right off idle. I've had early or first gen fuel injected bikes that had very digital responses as the injectors go from wet to dry and vice versa or they surged at low rpms when the FI was going from closed loop to open loop. Compared to these behaviors the NC is very smooth despite being fueled as lean as possible. The ST1300 was a first gen FI bike and it has a reputation for a snatchy throttle. Throttle Tamers are very popular on the ST.

To the OP I suggest saddle time and a loose hand and wrist will do wonders as right wrist to brain software is finessed and optimized. A G2 can shorten that time.
 
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