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Jump Starting NC 700

JimTid

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My GPS is wired to un-switched power. I left the GPS on and it ran the battery down. I was in my driveway ready to ride and did not want to wait for the battery to charge. I attempted to jump start it with the car using small gauge motorcycle jumper cables. I could not get enough voltage transferred to spin the starter. I charged the battery for 30 minutes and the voltage got up to 12.7 volts, still no starter spin. Left it to charge and rode another bike.
When I returned the battery was charged showing 14 volts and started fine. I will rewire the GPS to switched power.
Has anyone had success jump starting the NC700 DCT?
 
Yes. It works the same as jump starting any 12 volt system vehicle. Were the jumper cables perhaps just too small to handle the starter current along with the current sink of the dead battery?
 
A premium set of jumper cables with 8 AWG minimum would be recommended for use with motorcycles.

A cheap set of jumper cables from discount stores are made with 10 AWG with the copper fold over the insulation and then crimped to the clamps. Any significant current flowing through the cable will heat up the insulation thus causing the copper straines to sank into the insulation and loss contact to the clamps. In most cases they will disconnect the 2 batteries from each other and you are not charging or allowing current to pass to start the bike.
 
There should be no reason why cable-jumpstarting your bike did not work. Did you connect the battery terminals correctly?
Plus to plus and neg-to-neg.
Best if you run the auto engine while you jumpstart.
 
There should be no reason why cable-jumpstarting your bike did not work..


There should be no reason ...........BUT.........There is one BIG reason ( likely reason) why it did not work ..........poor quality connection.

(It is interesting how often this pops up.)
 
Best if you run the auto engine while you jumpstart.
It is suggested not to run car’s engine because it may harm motorcycles’ electronics. I thought it was a myth, but I found it in HD’s owner’s manual (one of the few motorcycle manuals that describe the jump start procedure...)
 
You are to never to have an engine running you are jump starting from; it has stated this in every auto manual I have owned in the past 41 years or so... My 2001 Jeep states this, my wife's 2006 Ford fusion, my wife's 1998 F250, my 2015 Toyota are have this statement in the manual....
 
I have jumped my NC three times over the years. I jumped it from a vehicle that was not running and only had the cables on 10 seconds before trying. I agree with showkey's comment about the connection because it is tough to get hooked onto something at the battery terminal. My jumper cables just happen to have a set of little claws on the tips that help with camping on small hard to reach places.
 
I always run the engine in the “good” car when jumping another car - every article I’ve seen says to do this as well. The engine is off when connecting the cables, but then you start the good car and let it run a bit before trying the dead car.

Haven’t considered why it would be different for a motorcycle jump - 12v system, although the bike’s system is far less complex.


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I’m not sure if the electronics may get hurt by a car’s much bigger generator output, but I’m sure that it’s not good if not harmful for the tiny battery.

Every battery type has a max charge rate that can accept, for AGM is 0.5C (noted as fast charging on the battery, i.e. 5.5 A for us) and the charging system is more or less aligned to that, while the optimal is only 0.1C (noted as standard charging) to avoid any chance of gassing and overcharging but it’s charging very slow.

Our generator produces about 30 A (@14 V) to feed all the electronics and charge the battery. A car’s generator like Opel Corsa D produces about 100 A (@ 14 V). 3+ times more...

Thankfully it’s only for a moment... But a moment may be enough to decrease it’s lifespan.
 
The engine on the vehicle you are jumping from should be on, when jump-starting another car, because you don't want to pull all of the power from the "good" car's battery when you load it down with the "dead" car.
 
Charging dead batteries and jump starting always generate wild opinions and varying techniques

This will never end.......one of the notable jump start threads went on for several 100 + posts.

Who better to instruct on jump starts than click and clack from Car Talk:

https://www.cartalk.com/sites/default/files/features/jumpstart/images/jumpstart2012.pdf

STEP 12: Start the good car's engine.


As far as jumping a small motorcycle, the car does not need to running to get the job done. If done correctly the car battery or charging system will not overwhelm the motorcycle for various reasons.

Nobody wants to admit it after they just f*** up one or more the vehicles involved but the vast majority of electrical systems damage during jumping is polarity errors.

And everyone over the age of 40 knows someone or someone’s friend or relative the blew up a battery witha spark and excessive off gassing of hydrogen during some process of starting an old car, truck or tractor. Some of those stories are funny and some ended very very badly for the people or vehicles involved.
 
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I will surely run the engine of the motor vehicle which I am jump starting from. I will let it run for say 1 min and the attempt the jump start.

I will not rev the engine during the jumpstart.
It should take just 1 or 2 presses and the bike should start.

Then disconnect immediately and shut down the helper motor vehicle.

You can do the other way and pray that you don't kill the good battery.

There is no absolute right way or wrong way. No need to quote decades and decades of manual reading or suggesting you have done this a million times. If you did, that means you didn't learn your lesson and why should we learn from someone who keeps having to repeat the jumpstarts?

Just do it a few times and you will find YOUR own way.




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What article? There are articles and “articles”. Is the source trustworthy?

Various mechanic sites, popular mechanics, pep boys, advanced auto parts, meineke - all pretty reputable sites.


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Power in Watts = Current in Amps x Voltage. A battery rated for 100 amp hours will provide 5 amps for 20 hours. If we have a 12 volt battery, we multiply 100 by 12 and determine that the battery will provide 1200 watt hours.

Cranking amps are the numbers of amperes a lead-acid battery at 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) can deliver for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts for a 12 volt battery). In other words, CA/cranking amps determine how much power you have to start your motorcycle in most climates.

Over the years as a Honda dealer I saw many electrical jumping problems, and no there is no explaination for all the weird things I have seen. Most the jumping problems I saw were on ATV’s. I saw a few completly fired units jumping units from autos. Saw a one day old Yamaha Venture Royal jumped off a 500 cranking app truck, that the entire electric system was fried.. Also, I have seen units that were jumped many times off autos with no problems..... Most times when there is over the cranking amps used, the unit is fired to the starter solenoid. If starter solenoid in not in the CDI unit, you just change out the solenoid and all is well again.

My advise is to use the same cranking amps, never saw a problem when doing this....
 
Ok, how about the NC700 owners manual-page 90:
Jump starting using an automobile battery is not
recommended, as this can damage your motorcycle's
electrical system...


Also, Page 90 of owners manual from Mother Honda:
Do not use an automobile-type battery
charger, as these can overheat a motorcycle
battery and cause permanent damage
 
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