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Oil Change

Update:
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The Honda mechanic took out a free-slotted pliers and proceeded to look for my bike.
NONONONO!!!

I protested to the shop-owner (who was also there) and said a proper socket wrench is the right tool.
So he also agreed. He then found the 12mm socket (professional one) and twisted it loose without even removing the cowl. All it took was a hard 1/4 turn and it was out.

I still think it was over-tightened by those "mechanics" in the shopfloor.

From now on, I will do the oil changes myself.

I asked for the brake fluid costs (change and materials) and he said 50chf (about USD$45). I said ok and I will come back next week to "watch and learn". Usually it takes 2 persons to change brake fluids so I think I will pay them but I will watch by the side.

:D

Fresh oil, feels good.

PS: Oil filter wrench (cup) took out the oilfilter with no issue at all. I hand tightened it and then used the cup for a 1/4 turn more.
Engine running, no leaks.
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That is one of the main reasons so many of us do our own service happy. Just because someone is certified doesn't mean they will do it correctly. Too many times I've repaired things that a certified mechanic messed up.
Changing the Brake fluid is very easy by yourself. Just don't spill it on the paint. For less money than a service or two, you can buy the tools and do it yourself and know it was done correctly. Then years later, you can teach your son and the savings continues! That is the best part of doing it yourself.

Amazon.com: Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit: Everything Else
 
There's an even cheaper tool for one person brake bleeding. It's basically a tube with a one way valve in it. You fit it over the bleed nipple and put the other end into a container to collect the old fluid. Then you just pump the brake and the old fluid pumps out. Keep topping the master cylinder with fresh fluid until fresh fluid comes out of the tube then you close the bleed nipple, job done. I've used them for DIY brake bleeding for years. You do need to be careful and attentive to avoid air getting into the system but if you only do the job every few years it's a cost effective solution.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
That is one of the main reasons so many of us do our own service happy. Just because someone is certified doesn't mean they will do it correctly. Too many times I've repaired things that a certified mechanic messed up.
Changing the Brake fluid is very easy by yourself. Just don't spill it on the paint. For less money than a service or two, you can buy the tools and do it yourself and know it was done correctly. Then years later, you can teach your son and the savings continues! That is the best part of doing it yourself.

Amazon.com: Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit: Everything Else

There's an even cheaper tool for one person brake bleeding. It's basically a tube with a one way valve in it. You fit it over the bleed nipple and put the other end into a container to collect the old fluid. Then you just pump the brake and the old fluid pumps out. Keep topping the master cylinder with fresh fluid until fresh fluid comes out of the tube then you close the bleed nipple, job done. I've used them for DIY brake bleeding for years. You do need to be careful and attentive to avoid air getting into the system but if you only do the job every few years it's a cost effective solution.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Thanks guys.

Does this mean the NCX brakes can be bled like "normal" brakes?
I do know how to do the normal brakes (but I usually need a helper while I open and close the nipples).
I had imagined the linked brakes and ABS complicate things?

:p

PS: Ordering the bleeding kit will set me back say 50-100 euros here. Not everything is cheap in Switzerland or Germany. Shipping is usually not free.

http://www.amazon.de/BGS-Technic-Va...-1-catcorr&keywords=motorrad+bremsenentlüfter

:(
 
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Ebay uk has the brake bleeding tubes, they're about $8 plus postage, search motorcycle brake bleeding tube or similar. You can probably find them in stores here as well but I've not looked as I've had one in my toolbox for years.

The CBS does complicate things a bit - you have to follow a set sequence according to the manual. I don't remember well - I think it's pedal operated brakes first then the front lever operated brakes. It didn't seem anything too hard.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys.

Does this mean the NCX brakes can be bled like "normal" brakes?
I do know how to do the normal brakes (but I usually need a helper while I open and close the nipples).
I had imagined the linked brakes and ABS complicate things?

:p

PS: Ordering the bleeding kit will set me back say 50-100 euros here. Not everything is cheap in Switzerland or Germany. Shipping is usually not free.

http://www.amazon.de/BGS-Technic-Va...-1-catcorr&keywords=motorrad+bremsenentlüfter

:(
Like posted above you can get them cheaper or make one yourself. I don't know if there is a difference between ABS linked vs non ABS or not.
Not a NCX but same principal.
Honda Tech Talk: How to Bleed Your Brakes - YouTube
 
I see you live in San Diego!! I know Walmarts are probably closer but there must be a reasonably close Honda shop!!

I use nothing but Honda Oil Filters on my Honda's!! You can also buy the proper filter tool there too!!

Is there a poll here on the most popular engine oil and oil filter? I am planning to use the Mobil 10W40 and a Bosch oil filter from Walmart. What specific oil filter would suit best for the NC700x?
Oops - found it http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-...0x-its-funny-how-many-other-bikes-fits-2.html
 
I see you live in San Diego!! I know Walmarts are probably closer but there must be a reasonably close Honda shop!!

I use nothing but Honda Oil Filters on my Honda's!! You can also buy the proper filter tool there too!!

Like you I use the Honda oil filters and oil. I know that oil filters have different percent of filtering abilities, so by using Honda I know I am right on.

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Thanks for the video!! Nice job and I learned the "screwdriver trick". I have had problems in the past with stuck filters on cars and never thought of that. Who cares about the old filter it is going in the garbage anyway right. Thanks again. Ride safe
 
Oh man, I found myself spending 30 minutes reading this thread .. But the question I had is following. I just got NC700 2012 yesterday. It has 6000+ on it. It was dropped and has some scratches but it is still the most new and expensive transportation I ever purchased... So, the oil level on the stick is substantially different depending if it is checked on the optional center stand or on the side stand. Which is correct level ?
 
from a post in this forum

Now I say my method plus the method I saw the Honda garage owner did.

My Method:
1. Make sure you have a friend, that friend can be a mainstand.
2. Warm up bike, ride around for a short time to ensure engine oil is warm
3. Put bike on mainstand (or friend holds her level)
4. Open the oil cap. Clean it
5. Put oil cap back but do not screw it in (it has a dip stick)
6. Pull out and read the level.

My Honda garage owner method.
Steps 1 and 2 are same.
3. Go to right side of bike and unscrew oil-filler cap and clean it, hold with left hand
4. Squat down next to bike, with right hand holding on the right throttle grip, balance the bike.
5. Left hand will put cap back, and view the oil level on the dip stick.

There you go, 2 methods.
Both work.
:p

PS: method 2: do at your own risk and do not let go of bike from right hand....
 
from a post in this forum

Thanks! I actually suck some oil out to have a correct level on a side stand. I am more concerned with overfilling the oil .. I guess it should not make much difference since in owner manual they do not specify it..
 
Thanks! I actually suck some oil out to have a correct level on a side stand. I am more concerned with overfilling the oil .. I guess it should not make much difference since in owner manual they do not specify it..

OIL IS NOT CHECKED WITH NC ON SIDE STAND! Check oil with bike vertical. Read your manual.

Also oil will show low on side stand. Do not screw in dip stick to check level. Wipe it off and put it in as far as it will go without screwing to check.
 
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OIL IS NOT CHECKED WITH NC ON SIDE STAND! Check oil with bike vertical. Read your manual.

Also oil will show low on side stand. Do not screw in dip stick to check level. Wipe it off and put it in as far as it will go without screwing to check.

Yeah, you right Fuzzy, they do say vertical in the manual. Funny what the link got assigned to "bike vertical" by ads services ;)
 
This is my first choice wrench. It fits Honda filters for cars and bikes.



Hot oil has the contaminant stuff that settles in the bottom of the sump in cold oil all mixed up and in suspension so it drains out with the hot oil. I don't usually drain it cold for this reason. A piece of aluminum foil can be molded into all kinds of shapes to protect exhaust pipes and direct draining oil to where you want it to go.

I love my Flat wrench. Sneaks in without me having to remove any body parts on the 1800 Wing or the CBR 1100. plus the other end removes the drain plug too!
 
Hot oil has the contaminant stuff that settles in the bottom of the sump in cold oil all mixed up and in suspension so it drains out with the hot oil. I don't usually drain it cold for this reason. A piece of aluminum foil can be molded into all kinds of shapes to protect exhaust pipes and direct draining oil to where you want it to go.


Good idea on the aluminum foil. I gotta try that next time I change oil on our CR-V, oil filter is horizontal above the right axle. Usually makes quite a mess.
 
Oil level must be check when the bike is upright (center stand)

Unscrew oil cap, wipe clean and reinsert cap but not screw in, take cap out and check oil level.
 
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