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Replacement Drive Chain Again.

The_Drifter

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I got 14,000 miles from the factory Chain on my 2012 NC700. Replaced the chain with a DID 520 VX2, and the high quality sprockets from sprocket Center. With 16,000 miles on this chain, it's time for replacement (I have several kinks in the chain, which makes it impossible to properly adjust the chain). I regularly used Dupont chain spray (about every 300 miles). Does anyone know a chain that may last longer? Has anyone made the change to a 525 size chain? For those of You, who have got high mileage on your chain, how do you think that happened? Thanks for any responses.
 
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I don't think that you won't find a longer lasting chain than a VX2. Several will equal it. I have an ERV3 chain (which will not last as long as a VX2) and it is at 20,000 miles and still in very good shape. I do not lube it on schedule, but I do keep it meticulously aligned and adjusted. The bike does not need a 525 chain. It's 50 hp motor is not pulling the 520 to death. If someone tells you that they are getting very good life with a 525, that doesn't necessarily mean it is because it is a 525. There are many getting good life with 520 chains as well. The Honda swingarm doesn't give you much help in accurately aligning the sprocket to the chain, and with no evidence to support it, I think that has much to do with the frequent reports of low chain life on the NC's. The OEM chains were garbage, so something else may be in play there, but if a 520 VX2 is not lasting on a 50 hp 670cc motorcycle, then something else is wrong. The Sprocket Center guys know chains. It is all that they do. I would recommend that you call and talk with them about it. They can draw on a lot more data points than anyone here - myself included.
 
You might want to check out the review that Motorcycle Consumer News did on DuPont Chain Lube. The old version was great and was their Innovation of the Month when it came out years back, The new formulation was trashed by MCN as totally useless. I stopped using it after I read the article and went to Belray Super Clean. I doubt that it is the cause but might be a contributor.
 
I agree with Beemerpile, 12,000 to 16,000 is about the max... If you drive your bike hard in dirt, like I regularly do, 12,000 is about the max. Always change your sprockets when you change your chain. I hate chains and have aways felt that it is a lot cheaper to pay for a shaft drive up front, than to pay for many chains, sprockets and labor along the time of usage. At one time in the 70's and 80's all the companies were going to shaft drives. But being most folks who purchase new motorcycles are most times first time buyers, and with little experience. These folks are looking for the best price, and most power to the ground. The "O" ring/ "X" ring chain has increased mileage from around 5,000 to 6,000 miles of the old Diamond chains to today's three time longer lasting chains. So, back to the chain we have gone the last 20 years. Even Harley has left the chain!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Beemerphile, how often (miles) do you adjust the chain?

Let me chime in...

In general that will depend on your riding habits and the conditions the chain is subjected to. For instance, if you ride out in the rain, it is highly recommended that you clean and lube the chain at your earliest convenience. The same goes with off-road riding. All kinds of "Grit" and other abrasive materials get thrown around by the rear wheel and a portion of that makes it onto the chain as well.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the introduction of "O-Ring" and "X-Ring" chains have easily tripled the mileage and any signs of stretching that would require routine adjustments.

To answer your question: Check the chains tension every time you perform the recommended maintenance. It could be several thousand miles of street riding before your chain requiring any adjustment. If it does require adjustment, it will be a minuscule amount.

Off road riding requires more routine inspections and cleaning of chain. You should always check the chain tension after spending the day out on the trails or after a long road-trip. Adjust as required.

I personally lube my chain every 1,000 mile are so. I clean and adjust the tension when it is required.
 
Beemerphile, how often (miles) do you adjust the chain?

I check it in a very non-beemerphile manner. Before every ride, I push up at the lower mid-point with the toe of my boot. If it touches the bottom of the swingarm, I check it with a rule. I don't clean and lube very often at all - maybe every couple of thousand miles. When I do adjust it, I go for dead nuts on alignment. I now use a laser gauge, but previously used the MotionPro stick. I could be totally in left field, but it is working. My chain has not needed an adjustment in over 5,000 miles. I have a spare VX2 and new sprockets ready to go when needed. It is an expendable item like brake pads.
 
Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments. I did take Bemerphile's advice and emailed Sprocket Center to get their ideas of extending chain life. I'll let You know what they say.
 
Beemerphile,

Did you notice that the swingarm markings are way off (not even) when using the MotionPro Stick or Laser Gauge? I used the MotionPro Stick, but it indicated that I would have to move the wheel in such a way, that the markings would not only not be even on each side of the wheel, but off more then 1 mark, so I thought maybe I was using the MotionPro Stick incorrectly.
 
I'm no expert but I've always gotten terrible life out of chains, it would kink up long before it stretched too far. I used to use the Dupont lube occasionally and I think my issue is that the chain would just accumulate grime. The last chain I went through I didn't lube at all, I just cleaned it regularly with wd40 and it lasted a little longer. This time around I've added an automatic chain oiler and it seems to keep the chain clean of crud, even shedding the clay from off roading in Utah. If I wipe the oil off it comes off clean. I just did a 10k mile trip with a new chain and the chain hasn't needed adjusting at all so far, I've measured it a few times it's remained within spec.
 
Beemerphile,

Did you notice that the swingarm markings are way off (not even) when using the MotionPro Stick or Laser Gauge? I used the MotionPro Stick, but it indicated that I would have to move the wheel in such a way, that the markings would not only not be even on each side of the wheel, but off more then 1 mark, so I thought maybe I was using the MotionPro Stick incorrectly.

The problem I have with the swingarm hash marks is not so much that they are wrong, but that the resolution is so poor. A small difference at the axle mark makes a large difference at the end of the radius the rear sprocket makes. It is possible to make an error with the MotionPro gauge, but much less likely than with the hash marks. I would say make sure that the MotionPro tool is seated properly on the sprocket and then eyeball it as well as you can that it is lining up on the same part of every link. Having done that, I would ignore the hash marks. I do not even know whether my hash marks are right or wrong. The MotionPro tool directly indicates the result we are looking for. The hash marks are indirect. In fact, even without a MotionPro tool, I would be more confident in rotating the wheel and looking down the line formed by the sprocket and the chain than I would be counting on the hash marks to give me the correct answer. You can also look at how each upcoming link meshes with the sprocket tooth. Is the tooth entering at the center of the link or is it contacting one of the sideplates?

However you choose to adjust the alignment, you should also look at the chain and sprockets regularly for signs of wear that would indicate whether there is misalignment. Misalignment will show up as polishing marks on the chain and the sprockets.
 
DAS100,
A whole mark huh? That is a lot.
Have you tried rotating the wheel 180° and then seeing what the MotionPro tool says? Could the sprocket possibly be installed incorrectly/loose?
Just seems like an awful lot of difference. (We have three NCs in the garage and the markings are pretty accurate)
Not that that means anything really....
 
I got 80k out of a chain on my 919 with a scott oiler. Had a co-worker get 120k on a vfr750. Mine ran out in the winter and I didn't notice. The chain went quick.
 
I emailed this to Sprocket Center:

"Hi Guys,
I'm not getting as much chain life as I thought I should. I regularly make adjustments, and clean and lubricate my chain. I have a Honda NC700 and typically get 14,000-16,000 miles before having to replace my chain. That holds true even when I'm using a quality chain like the DID 520 VX2, and of course I change my sprockets when replacing my chain. In the motorcycle forums, others who have a NC700 also report a similar situation (although some claim to get as much as 30,000 miles on their chain) about chain life. Do You have any idea of what works the best to maintain a chain? What do You guys recommend? Thanks for any suggestions you come up with."

And here is there response,

I don’t know many that get 30K out of a 520 chain.. but it does happen. 20K is pretty typical.
Most guys out there are running the chain too tight…that will kill the life. A little loose is much better that a little tight.
Other then that, lubing every 3-500 miles and a cleaning it every third or fourth lube is the best practice. Really no specific products, just sticking with it."


So the folks at Sprocket Center didn't write anything new that many of us didn't already know. The only thing, I haven't tried is a chain oilerr. So I ordered one (Tutoro Deluxe). Don't know if it will help, but we'll see. I'll post my thoughts on the chain oiler, once I get it, and have it on the bike for awhile. Meanwhile, once again, I ordered sprockets and chain from Sprocket Center.
 
From someone who had only a motorcycle as transportation for 7 years (groceries were fun back in the day and I worked for a rental car firm...oh the irony) there was only one way to get high miles from a chain. Go bigger. A 520 chain just won't last. I tried, I really did. It is the law of the steel jungle; bigger is stronger. 520 chains are cash cows for the chain industry. 525 chains are excellent compromises for the consumer as they last like 530s (I always get 50K miles out of a 530, even on liter bikes) and they weigh less than a pound more than a 520 on average. My last 525 on our T800 was at 45,000 miles when the bike was totaled and it was just about finished (stretched, not kinked. I had a slow year on the NC since I spent most of my time on the sport bike (CB500F) and the ST1300 but I still did 5K+ and still no initial adjustment which is better than any bike I have ever owned.

I wipe off the chain after every ride with wd40 on a paper towel and I put on ATF with a toothbrush. Takes me less than 2 minutes with a centerstand and my chains never kink and they last for years. I hope to get more miles on the NC next year so I can finalize testing the JT 525 chain I installed. I may actually take the NC for a 1,400 mile ride over Thanksgiving but I suspect I will take the ST1300. First World problems are so not stressful.

Note: I got 51,000 miles out of a 630 chain on an old 79 KZ650 I commuted on. It was not an o-ring chain. I quit using chain lube after my first 630 conversion kit wore out in about 20K and on the advice of an old codger I used gear oil on the next chain. What a difference. I used to spray kerosene on a rag and clean that chain and then I tbrushed on the gear oil. I did that every night when i got home from work, rain shine or whatever.
 
Did you change the sprockets to match the 525 chain? Do you have the part numbers for chain, 2 sprockets? I did a similar change on my v-strom (from 525 to 530) and more than doubled chain life.
 
Meanwhile, lots of sport bike owners with 525 and 530 chains are replacing them with 520's to save power and weight - proving, I guess, nothing.

The 50 hp NC700 is not pulling its chain apart. The tension that it operates under is at least 50% below the rating and increasing it by 10% with a 525 is not going to change the game. The quality of the chain is important, but after that, I believe that alignment, tension (slack), and lubrication will have more impact than increasing the width of the links. I spoke with the owner of Sprocket Center about this as I was considering the same thing. He said he saw no benefit, and having considered it further, I agree. I may do it one day out of curiosity, but I don't think it is the answer to chain life on the NC. Too many bikes with higher load on a 520 chain seem to last longer. Something is fishy about the NC and chain life, for sure, but it ain't getting pulled apart by the sheer power of the beast.

Before you say I have no proof, neither does anyone else. Enough data points may trickle in over the next five years or so to begin to formulate a data-based position, but until then, any conclusions would be statistically suspect. Find me a 525 that lasted 40K miles, and I will find you a 520 that did as well.

I'm betting for now that the engineers at Honda picked the right size chain. One thing that I am sure of is that a too tight or out-of-alignment 525 is going to impart more force on the countershaft bearing than the OEM chain will.
 
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To go with your comments, yes, I doubled the chain life by going to 530 from 525, but I believe I bought a much better quality chain. So maybe that was the real change.
 
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