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Rox risers installed

Hyperborea said:
I quite understand. I have a pair of little hams myself.



It is not fixed. I found that out during the HB bar fiasco too. I couldn't get the rubber bumper to move up or down on the brake line. When I rotated it though it gave way and then could slide up and down the brake line to the limits of the protective cover. I don't think it was originally attached from the factory but just the two rubber items (hose and bumper) stuck together with heat and time.
Click to expand...

Great. Good to know. Tonight I'm going to tear back into that area and break it free. I'd feel much better with the clip rotated back down closer to its original position. I fought that dang grommet last night and could not get it loose. I'll try it again. Appreciate the comment.
 
The grommet on the front brake hose is either chemically welded (glued) or heat welded, but only partially. If it's marginally attached, you may be able to break it free. You can also slice it lengthwise with a razor blade and peel it off and reposition it, but you risk damage to the hose itself. Your call.

I peeled the grommets off my stock hose and reinstalled them in the clamps as a guide for my thinner aftermarket brake line. I wanted two and a half more inches brake line to deal with the risers, and with brake line slight rerouting due to the handguards, so I ordered a longer hose.

100_7044.jpg100_7043.jpg
 
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670cc said:
The grommet on the front brake hose is either chemically welded (glued) or heat welded, but only partially. If it's marginally attached, you may be able to break it free. You can also slice it lengthwise with a razor blade and peel it off and reposition it, but you risk damage to the hose itself. Your call.

I peeled the grommets off my stock hose and reinstalled them in the clamps as a guide for my thinner aftermarket brake line. I wanted two and a half more inches brake line to deal with the risers, and with brake line slight rerouting due to the handguards, so I ordered a longer hose.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the advice. I'm going to try and break it free without any cutting. We'll see how that goes before escalating things. I feel confident I could cut it without damaging the hose but prefer not to. Thanks Again.

These are the types of things I missed in all my readings on the Rox Risers.
 
670cc said:
The grommet on the front brake hose is either chemically welded (glued) or heat welded, but only partially. If it's marginally attached, you may be able to break it free.
Click to expand...

I couldn't get the rubber bumper to move up and down the brake line but when I rotated it, it came loose with only a small amount of force. There was no residue left on the hose to indicate any glue or marks to indicate heat welding. I assumed that it was just sticktion keeping them together.
 
I split open the clamp and put it back so that it was holding the lower edge of the bumper. I thought the bumper was part of the line :) Good info, Thanks!
 
Man, I finally got it. That sucker was on there. Twisting and pulling. I finally a very long flat tip screw driver and carefully pushed it between the house and grommet. Did that in several different spots until it finally broke loose. I've moved it back close to the original position. It is in as much better spot now. Thanks for all the input.

20140310_161546.jpg
 
Well they have moved on me already. I have the bolts nice and tight too. I posted a photo of how I eched the posts on the risers so it must not have been good enough. Going to take them back off tonight and scratch them up some more.
 
SergeantChuck said:
View attachment 12882

View attachment 12883
Click to expand...


I just did my Rox risers this morning. The pictures and descriptions that you guys posted certainly made it easier. I found one extra thing about those two one-time pop-rivet zip ties that you cut above. If you cut the zip tie part close to the pop-rivet part but leave it in place you can feed a zip tie through the loop on top of the pop-rivet and use that to hold the cable back down again after the bars are in place.

I was only able to test it sitting in the garage but it certainly makes the seating position much better. I'm reconsidering the aftermarket seat that I've got an order in for.
 
These are definitely towards the top of my list of mods to make to my bike. I often find myself leaning forward while riding and I'm hoping that these will do the trick to get me more upright and in a better seating position. My only concern is that due to the fact that you can also adjust the angle of the bars that I will wind up fiddling with that too much trying to find the "perfect" angle.
 
I have finally come to the conclusion that upright is bad, and leaning forward is how it's meant to be. Them Honda engineers are pretty clever really
Mike
 
CGFS said:
My only concern is that due to the fact that you can also adjust the angle of the bars that I will wind up fiddling with that too much trying to find the "perfect" angle.
Click to expand...

That is the beauty of it though. You can fiddle with it and get them exactly where you want.
 
mike5100 said:
I have finally come to the conclusion that upright is bad, and leaning forward is how it's meant to be. Them Honda engineers are pretty clever really
Mike
Click to expand...

Would you think the Honda automobile division's engineers would be called "clever" if the cars didn't have adjustable seats, though...?
 
SergeantChuck said:
Man, I finally got it. That sucker was on there. Twisting and pulling. I finally a very long flat tip screw driver and carefully pushed it between the house and grommet. Did that in several different spots until it finally broke loose. I've moved it back close to the original position. It is in as much better spot now. Thanks for all the input.

View attachment 12965
Click to expand...

Anybody installed on DCT or ABS models? How to re-route / loosen the brake hoses? The picture is different from the non-ABS model above. TIA

 
Ray - are you saying that it doesn't look to you like you will have enough slack to make it work. It looks like the hose clamping thing could be unscrewed and then the rubber sleeve thing could be worked loose so that the brake hose could be fed higher? but maybe that would make the lower part too short.
Mike
 
I've not bought the riser but am keen to pursue. For ABS, the hose from the caliper goes to the ABS modulator inside the crowl before going to the brake master. Not sure how much slack for the later cos don't think the modulator can be moved.
 
ray said:
I've not bought the riser but am keen to pursue. For ABS, the hose from the caliper goes to the ABS modulator inside the crowl before going to the brake master. Not sure how much slack for the later cos don't think the modulator can be moved.
Click to expand...


You don't have to do anything out of the ordinary or unsusual, Ray.

All Canuck NCX's are ABS (whether we want them or not, lol) and the Rox work just fine.

Just undo any clamps and tie wraps that hold electrical or hydraulic hoses tightly to the triple clamp and/or frame. You don't have to reroute any cables or hoses, simply make "common sense" darned sure they have slack and aren't strained or strectched or pinched.

After all is good, loosely tie wrap any wires or hoses back in the spots that require mild containment to prevent fouling when bars are turned, etc., of course.

Easy peasy. :)
 
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