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Tires: Continental "motion" report

I'm going try my hand at changing my rear tire. Harbor Freight has a motorcycle tire balancer for $40. It will pay for itself with one tire change.

BTW- original Metzlers with 6,600 miles and I got a nail in the side of the rear. The rear would have made it to 7,000 but is not looking too good even now. Rear has flat strip in the middle and flat strips on either side. The front will be ok for a while.
 
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itlives said:
I'm going try my hand at changing my rear tire. Harbor Freight has a motorcycle tire balancer for $40. It will pay for itself with one tire change.

BTW- original Metzlers with 6,600 miles and I got a nail in the side of the rear. The rear would have made it to 7,000 but is not looking too good even now. Rear has flat strip in the middle and flat strips on either side. The front will be ok for a while.
Click to expand...

How do you get the tire on/off the rim?
 
It's not always that easy. Some rims and tires are a very tight fit. The video shows a loose fitting tire. He managed to push it on by hand. I haven't changed my tires on the NC yet so I can't comment on what it's like but I've done many motorcycle tires and the hardest part is making sure you don't put a mark on the rim. I actually take pictures of the rims before I begin to make sure I don't get blamed for marks. If your careful, take your time and make sure you protect your rim it's doable with the right tools and technique but if your fussy about your rims and it's the first time, have someone put the tires on. We only charge $30 installed and balance when you remove your wheel.
 
P.S. for this thread...

I replaced the Continental Motions today for a grand total of 12,150 miles.
I got 17,750 out of a set of Michelin PR2s. ($300 a set)

So... for me, I get 12K out of the Continental Motions... not bad for a tire that is $150 a set.
 
I'm just going to order a set today. I've used them before on my FZ1 and FZ6 with very good results. I don't think the original Dunlops are going to last my annual summer tour so I'll change them out before I leave. I only have 1,200 kms on them and they look about half worn.
 
I was able to find them both on Amazon just now...from different suppliers... but both said they had them "in stock".

Dennis Kirk has them for 144.76....back tire is on back order.
 
Dennis Kirk has the best price I've found at < $150 for BOTH. Of course they are on back order.
It's become my tire of choice!
 
Bumpity bump.
Gettin Contimotions put on tomorrow (if they came in today). I just turned over 10,200 on my NC and it has the original Metzler on the front, but is no good.
I bought a used rear Perrilli Diablo off Ebay for $70 delivered (plus $66 install).Had to buy it because of a nail in the side of my original rear tire. I got 3,200 miles out of the Diablo. Won't do that again!
I will buy an extra set of tires after I absorb the cost of this set.

Glad I came back and reread this thread.
 
StratTuner said:
P.S. for this thread...

I replaced the Continental Motions today for a grand total of 12,150 miles.
I got 17,750 out of a set of Michelin PR2s. ($300 a set)

So... for me, I get 12K out of the Continental Motions... not bad for a tire that is $150 a set.
Click to expand...

I have a CB500x and they use the same size tires as the NC700x, so this is why I check out this forum for topics like tires. I don't mount my own tires, so lets say I pay $100 to have the front and rear mounted. By the prices and mileage you posted it would cost me $800 to have 2 sets of PR2s mounted on my bike to get 35,500 miles (17,750 miles x 2) and it would cost me $750 to have 3 sets of Continental Motions to get 36,450 miles (12,150 miles X 3) So is it worth saving $50 and getting 950 more miles for one more trip to the shop, plus one more time riding on tires that are worn down needing to be changed. I guess what it comes down to, does the bike handle just as good on wet and dry roads with the Continental Motions as the PR2s, and how well do the tires still preform in the last 1000 miles on the bike, since you will only be on the last 1000 miles twice with the PR2s verses three times with the Continental Motions.

Thanks, Mike
 
There are some auto only tire shops, that do mount motor cycle tires. Any tire shop can do it and they only charge about $10 per tire. If they do not know how to mount a motorcycle tire it is easy to teach them how. First find the direction of rotation mark, and draw a large arrow on the tire to show the person mounting the direction the tire is to turn. On your new tire where will be a painted dot mark. That dot mark the factory balance point, that is pre done at the factory by every tire producer.
Line that dot up with your valve stem, this will install the tire at the factory pre balance point, a must!

I put in ride-on in every tire I install. I makes your tire last longer. Water seeks it's own level every time, so your tire is always in balance no matter how much rubber is worn off. A side thing about ride-on is it also seals leaks and nails. Almost no flats. Do not use slime, all dealerships do not like it because of the mess when changing tires. Ride-on leaves no mess. Most dealerships have seen so many slime messes, that they will not put any thing in a tire for you.
 
Old Can Ride said:
On your new tire where will be a painted dot mark. That dot mark the factory balance point, that is pre done at the factory by every tire producer.
Line that dot up with your valve stem, this will install the tire at the factory pre balance point, a must!
Click to expand...

From experience, I can say that putting the tire dot at the valve stem makes one HUGE assumption: that the valve area of the wheel is the heaviest spot. Well I've had tire/wheels assemblies balanced by dealers, with the dot at the stem, and in some cases time after time, the weights they added were all right next to the stem. So, put the light spot of the tire next to the supposedly heavy part of the rim (the valve), and that's where it needs more weight? That doesn't make sense.

The point is, to do this right the installer needs to find the true heavy part of the rim by first checking bare wheel balance, and not just assume it's at the valve. Then place the tire dot there at the true heavy spot.

The moral of the story is that the valve area may or may not be the heavy spot on the rim.
 
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