Chain Maintenance

[danrev]

A question for you experienced and maintenance conscience riders. Here's the scenario: You're taking a 1000 mile trip. Do you clean and lube the chain before you leave and count it good for the trip? Or do you take stuff with you to clean and lube the chain somewhere in the middle of your trip? As I've read on this Forum it seems that most clean and lube about every 750 miles, which is what I do now. However, I've never taken an extended trip on my NC and so would like to know what others would do on such a trip. I'm sure that any trip longer that 1000 would require chain maintenance somewhere on the way.

 

[Old Can Ride]

A question for you experienced and maintenance conscience riders. Here's the scenario: You're taking a 1000 mile trip. Do you clean and lube the chain before you leave and count it good for the trip? Or do you take stuff with you to clean and lube the chain somewhere in the middle of your trip? As I've read on this Forum it seems that most clean and lube about every 750 miles, which is what I do now. However, I've never taken an extended trip on my NC and so would like to know what others would do on such a trip. I'm sure that any trip longer that 1000 would require chain maintenance somewhere on the way.

The first thing out of the tent, before taking off, every morning I check my chain. I carry chain lube in one of the tool tubes that dduelin suggested.

See dduelin post: http://nc700-forum.com/forum/nc700-mods/2841-mounting-tool-tubes-inside-givi-panniers.html

Using the tubes makes this a quick job at getting to the lube without having to go through all my stuff.

Check the chain tension with bike sitting on side stand. Usually this does not require adjustment. If the chain does require adjustment I carry my tool roll up kit in the other tool tube, so it also is quick to get at.

Then put the bike on center stand, and quickly adjust chain, if needed, and lubricate the chain.

 

[Old Can Ride]

Forgot to mention, when using the tool tube should the valve on top of the spray lubricate can malfunction the lubricate stays in the tool tube and does not get all over your stuff.

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

I check and lube my chain every other tank, unless I ride in rain or wet conditions.

 

[MZ5]

Do I have an o-ring chain? Yes, the factory chain is an o-ring, as are the replacements I buy (all other letters, such as 'x,' are equivalent). Therefore, just clean and 'lube' the chain before departing, and have fun. If you anticipate encountering wet weather, or mud, or salt, you might consider carrying some rust-proofing 'lube' like WD-40 or whatever you like.

 

[SergeantChuck]

I check and lube my chain every other tank, unless I ride in rain or wet conditions.

I do the same. I carry the chain oil in one of my panniers. I put the bike up on the center stand while at the gas station and spin the tire and apply oil. I'll be honest and state I don't clean the chain every time. I only clean it when I start to see buildup.

 

[turbodieseli4i6]

I don't clean my chain unless I'm home. I'll just drench it with lube, hoping it washes the majority of grime off in the process.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

I have no set mileage for oiling a chain. Every time I get off the bike I glance at the chain, and if it is even slightly dry I add a little oil to the inside of the lower run while spinning the rear wheel, until it glistens. Obviously the back wheel has to be off the ground. I have a small bottle of gear oil with a fine nozzle, that fits in a jacket pocket. It carries sufficient oil for about 1000 miles, and is no bigger than a pack of cigarettes. The whole operation takes seconds.

 

[Deleted member 1183]

You should also consider a chain oiler long term. Scottoiler is a good brand. Tutoro is also very good and simple to operate. I have one of each on my NC and SM. Both work well but my preference is the Tutoro. Have a look at both on the web.

 

[dduelin]

I judge time to apply lube by the appearance of the roller links viewed from the rear as the chain passes around the rear sprocket. If they are grey and/or greasy looking the chain is good to go. If the rollers are bright shiny it's time to apply lube. The period varies according to the type of riding and any rain riding which shortens the period between lubrication.

To the Q posed I carry a can of spray lube on long trips and lube as necessary during a 1000 mile trip. I would probably clean and lube the chain before a long trip as well.

When I first got my bike it was the first chain drive bike I'd had in close to 200,000 miles and had to learn chain maintenance all over again. I ruined the first chain by over cleaning it with aggressive solvents and brush cleaning it. Now my mantra is "easy does it". I use WD40 in a low pressure hand pumped spray bottle to wet the chain down and a rag wetted with WD40 to wipe the grime off. After the WD evaporates off I use a dry type of chain lube that tends not to accumulate dirt and grime. So far so good.

 

[n30r3l0ad3d]

I went rogue on my choice of chain clean and lube. I tried Motul products. They use this on high end Ducati bikes, and I have not heard anything bad about the product. So far, with me using 1 application of both products, I am happy with it. There is no mess, not even up along my chain guard. You can find the stuff on amazon with the links below:

Amazon.com: Motul Chain Cleaner 9.8oz. 103243: Automotive
MOTUL Chain Lube Factory Line 9.3Oz 103246 : Amazon.com : Automotive

As far as how often to do chain maintenance goes, I usually do it around 1k miles. I check for play, adjust accordingly, and clean / lube as necessary. I also check chain alignment, and sprocket wear. If something seems foul, I replace.

As long as you have been maintaining your chain, I don't see the harm. I've seen / heard people traveling thousands of miles without lubing the chain. Hell, I went 2k miles on a cheap 40 dollar chain on my older honda and haven't had any issues. It's not good for them obviously, but it won't hurt it as long as you plan on lubing it after the trip. (Yes, I know the CB's had an automatic oiler but I disabled mine. Makes a mess!) With the NC, if I do take a long trip I will pack a can of that motul chain lube in the frunk or a back pack.

Where you run into trouble is excessive slack, chain too tight, out of alignment, worn sprockets... Now go several miles with one of those mentioned conditions, and yes you will do more harm than good.

I would say STAY AWAY from chainwax products like this one:

I tried it and it made a frikken mess. It becomes sticky as well, and hard to get rid of. Also picks up lots of road grime, like sand and sticks to it. Some people have had great luck with this, but I have not.

 

[ziggie]

I tried the above wax,and like said it makes a mess,I would stay away from it IMHO.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kjang]

Is oilers a good idea ??? (tutoro or loobman)

Ken

 

[MZ5]

They're a great idea for non-o-ring chains. For o-ring (sealed) chain, I am not aware of compelling evidence that they help improve lifespan. They may offer peace of mind, though, and that's worth something. You can search around the web, and you'll even find someone here who has used auto oilers, and their chain lifespan doesn't fall outside the range of normal for the rest of us, in my view.

 

[showkey]

Is oilers a good idea ??? (tutoro or loobman)

Ken

That is the debate:

The debate can be very heated and personal preference is the only real answer.

Modern o-ring chains need very little lube. Many agree just enough lube to keep the rust away is all that is needed. A spray non tacky (after application) , drying lube, that is specific for chains that does not attract dirt and dust has real merit.

Auto luber can and will make a mess.
The mess can attract dirt and dust.......causing excessive wear? The arquement can be made they can cause more harm than good..........
The dust-dirt oil mix makes for natures grinding compound.......

Seems the boys from the UK with high moisture, rain and sea salt etc like the auto lube systems and in their environment they maybe needed to keep the rust and corrosion area.

Choice of an auto lube is just the first decision.......next is the "oil"........which is a whole another debate 90w gear, 10-20-30-40-50 weight oil, ATF, some blend etc etc.

This has been hashed and rehashed over and over and over...................this is the dreaded oil thread is a different form.....without the filter debate.

 

[L.B.S.]

I would say STAY AWAY from chainwax products like this one:

I tried it and it made a frikken mess. It becomes sticky as well, and hard to get rid of. Also picks up lots of road grime, like sand and sticks to it. Some people have had great luck with this, but I have not.

I tried the above wax,and like said it makes a mess,I would stay away from it IMHO.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Really? Huh!

I've been using that stuff since at least 1991 and love it! I can't say I've ever had any mess or problems with it, I went to it because I hated life with the mess from all the other lubes I had used, up until I found it.

Having said that, though, maybe "mess" is relative...I've never cleaned a chain in my entire biking career, and I don't go berzerk with putting lube on anyways, (ie: maybe not enough) so it's entirely possible I get really crappy mileage out of my chains, while youse dudes laugh all the way to the bank, with your clean and well loved lubed up chains, lol!

 

[Deleted member 1183]

Modern O ring chains do need lube. Just let one dry out completely and then spin it on the sprockets. You can actually feel the friction of the dry rollers on the chain. Put some oil on and let it soak for a minute and try again. The difference will immediately be noticeable. Reason being that while the pins of the chain have grease sealed in between them and their sleeves, the outer rollers do not. They need lube also for the chain to function at its best, as they catch the tips of the sprocket teeth, and roll into the well between the teeth. Accordingly an oiler will greatly assist in keeping the chain functioning properly. I believe that dry rollers overheat under load and that in turn can affect the sealed-in grease. I have actually seen an unlubed chain lose some of its rollers because of overheating and wear. Admittedly such a chain was seriously abused.

 

[OriginalRocket]

I've tried all the above, and was never happy with the results. Even my favorite chemical company, DuPont's chain saver, After 1000 miles of use, it had built up debris on the chain.

One day at a car/motorcycle show. I saw a Ducatti Monster with a bluesh-white chain. Never seen that before, tracked the owner down and asked what was he using to lube his chain. He told me of Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube.

I gave it a try, 3000 miles ago. It is, in my limited experience, the best solution. ( I have not tried auto oilers) NO fling, you can visually see when to apply new lube. (about 400-600 miles) and it is dry to the touch and not tacky at all. In the past 3000 miles I have not cleaned the chain. I just re-lube it. Spray on warm chain, use paper towel to spread, Done.

I have the small spray bottle for longer trips. And my gf loves it on her CBR250R. She even does the chain lubing now its so easy!

The cons:
Turns chain a blue tint white.
expensive to purchase locally.
not available at most stores.
over spray is extremely noticeable.

 

[OldJeff]

The guys at the dealer recommended a Belray wax and Yamaha cleaner. Every 500 miles I'll check chain tightness and lube it after a ride and let it sit overnight. I use the cleaner with a 360 degree spiral brush every 1000 miles, rinse it and ride it dry, then lube it. That brush makes it SO easy

 

[dduelin]

Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube.

That is what I use - I should have referenced it in my previous post.