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Rox risers installed

Help needed for mounting the risers on an ABS bike

So.. I've discovered that the brake clip and grommet on my bike is not in the same place as the one in the picture. :(
It's way up high,... Close to the ignition. I'm working fairly blind with it in that position.
I'm wondering if it is different because the bike is ABS...
Anyone have the same issue... Or better yet, solutions...
Thanks
 
Gonepaddling said:
Help needed for mounting the risers on an ABS bike

So.. I've discovered that the brake clip and grommet on my bike is not in the same place as the one in the picture. :(
It's way up high,... Close to the ignition. I'm working fairly blind with it in that position.
I'm wondering if it is different because the bike is ABS...
Anyone have the same issue... Or better yet, solutions...
Thanks
Click to expand...

I just removed it, and placed suitable zip ties, loosely, where appropriate. When you remove the little bracket, look where it holds the line, and same with any electrical wires in the area. Where do they go? Where is the furthest they can be moved to by hand in any direction, with handlebars turned lock to lock left and right?

It's not as if they suddenly become an unmanageable Hydra, without that little clip. You just want to make sure nothing gets pinched or stretched unduly. :)
 
One to watch out for on an ABS bike or not is the clutch cable. Turn the handle bars both directions and watch the clutch actuator on the right side of the engine. Does it move as you move the handlebars? If it does then readjust the cable. With the 2" rise you need to be careful of how the free play in that cable gets placed. I think that we are just on the edge of using up all the free play in the clutch cable. If I still have the bike when it's time to replace the cable I'll probably get one an inch or so longer.
 
Hyperborea said:
One to watch out for on an ABS bike or not is the clutch cable. Turn the handle bars both directions and watch the clutch actuator on the right side of the engine. Does it move as you move the handlebars? If it does then readjust the cable. With the 2" rise you need to be careful of how the free play in that cable gets placed. I think that we are just on the edge of using up all the free play in the clutch cable. If I still have the bike when it's time to replace the cable I'll probably get one an inch or so longer.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly.
 
Fuzzy said:
I have ABS, but for the life of me can't find the clutch cable. Can you post a picture?
:)
Click to expand...

Only in the US does the presence or absence of ABS indicate the normal bike or the automatic handicapped assist bike. :p

The original question asker above, Gonepaddling, is in Canada where all NC700/NC750 bikes come with ABS.
 
Yup... should have thought to clarify that!
I am in Canada.....
Loved the ABS until I tried to put the risers on.... but then it didn't seem to follow the pictures on the post and I cursed it a wee bit.
I think my problem is solved. I couldn't move the brake cable at all it didn't seem to be attached at the same spot as in the pictures early in this thread.
IMG_0822.jpg
I couldn't get it to budge, and couldn't see what was holding it on....
Eventually managed to get a small camera in to the area and get a good look at the clip
IMG_0845.JPG
Looks like I just have to pull on it sideways a bit to get it loose.
Not sure if it is the same on the other bikes and is a bit more obvious to those with better eyes.
I kept seeing the famous forum comment "take a picture"
So I did, and it helped ... Thanks again.
 
I just removed that allen head bolt and took the clamp off altogether. Also, you have to take off that captured plastic wire tie loop shown to the right of it, to free the bracket from the cables.
 
Gonepaddling said:
Thanks I'll try again tonight!
Click to expand...


-before installing, it might be worth it to rough up the surfaces of the Rox round stub sections where they get clamped in the bike's top mount. A good "scrubbing" with some really coarse sandpaper should do the trick. (the risers tend to spin in the mounts because the machined aluminum is so smooth, it can allow the handlebars to rotate when not wanted)

ROX_Handlebar_Risers.jpg

I never had a problem with the Rox spining on my BMW, but transfering them over to my NCX, discovered that they can rotate unwanted. A few others here have had the same thing.
 
Tried installing the risers again today. The position that I want to put the bars in (more back than up) makes the brake cable too tight on the NCxa version of the bike. Any thoughts? LBS.. You said yours worked fine... Is your bar directly above where the old one was. It might be that I have more tilted back than you
Sharon
 
L.B.S. said:
I never had a problem with the Rox spining on my BMW, but transfering them over to my NCX, discovered that they can rotate unwanted. A few others here have had the same thing.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if the handlebar clamp is like this, but on the front forks of older Hondas, where the axle clamped directly on the bottom of the fork cylinders, you have to tighten the front bolts first, then the rears. This is because Honda machines the clamp with a very slight offset or step, where one side of the clamping surface is a little higher than the other. The intent is that the forward bolted surface will be tight and completely flush, and then torquing the rear bolt is what actually applies the clamping force to the axle. If you torque the bolts in the wrong order, or if you put the axle cap on backwards, the bolts themselves will torque down properly, but there will be reduced clamping pressure on the axle.

Again, I'm not exactly sure if this is the case here, but it is a similar mechanical condition, so I wouldn't put it past Honda to use the same philosophy.
 
Gonepaddling said:
Tried installing the risers again today. The position that I want to put the bars in (more back than up) makes the brake cable too tight on the NCxa version of the bike. Any thoughts? LBS.. You said yours worked fine... Is your bar directly above where the old one was. It might be that I have more tilted back than you
Sharon
Click to expand...

Hmm. I have mine back about as far as they can go and (the switch control pods on the bars) not interfere with opening up the frunk with the bars full left or right. I wouldn't want them any more than that anyway, so everything is good.

This is probably the limit for the brake hose, so maybe if you want yours even further back, you may need to go with a longer aftermarket braided line. I wanted my bars back a bit, but mostly wanted them up, so when standing up on the pegs off road they were better for ergos.
 
Last edited:
Lou Wambsganss said:
I'm not sure if the handlebar clamp is like this, but on the front forks of older Hondas, where the axle clamped directly on the bottom of the fork cylinders, you have to tighten the front bolts first, then the rears. This is because Honda machines the clamp with a very slight offset or step, where one side of the clamping surface is a little higher than the other. The intent is that the forward bolted surface will be tight and completely flush, and then torquing the rear bolt is what actually applies the clamping force to the axle. If you torque the bolts in the wrong order, or if you put the axle cap on backwards, the bolts themselves will torque down properly, but there will be reduced clamping pressure on the axle.

Again, I'm not exactly sure if this is the case here, but it is a similar mechanical condition, so I wouldn't put it past Honda to use the same philosophy.
Click to expand...

HondaBikePro also mentioned this, and I believe you are right on the money, thanks Lou! I think I am guilty of doing a criss cross tightening down of the clamp bolts, now that I really think about it. I have always been aware of the difference in front to back gap in the OEM caps, and their (on some of my bikes anyway) little arrow indicators to not install them backwards, but can't honestly say I remembered to always follow the "tighten the bolts the correct way", procedure.

I will loosen them up and re torque them the proper way, thanks for the reminder. :D
 
Last edited:
Gonepaddling said:
Tried installing the risers again today. The position that I want to put the bars in (more back than up) makes the brake cable too tight on the NCxa version of the bike. Any thoughts? LBS.. You said yours worked fine... Is your bar directly above where the old one was. It might be that I have more tilted back than you
Sharon
Click to expand...

I had to slightly alter the brake hose standoff bracket to accommodate my risers. Look at the forward face of the lower fork clamp. You will see a little black metal bracket that positions the brake hose. I loosened the bracket, clocked it upwards a little, to move some slack in the brake hose upward towards the handlebar, then tightened it back down. There is a flat boss machined in the clamp that is supposed to keep the bracket in one position only. However, the bracket is thin enough that it will conform to the boss in a slightly skewed position.

This gave me enough slack on the brake hose up at the handlebar, while still leaving enough slack in the hose down to the caliper to accommodate full steering and suspension motion.

20140419_040328.jpg
 
Gonepaddling said:
Tried installing the risers again today. The position that I want to put the bars in (more back than up) makes the brake cable too tight on the NCxa version of the bike. Any thoughts? LBS.. You said yours worked fine... Is your bar directly above where the old one was. It might be that I have more tilted back than you
Sharon
Click to expand...

I didn't go back and read everything but as Lou stated above you can rotate the bracket. You can also get that grommet to break free of the brake line. A few pages back we had a pretty good discussion on that. Once you break that grommet loose you'll have lots of slack.
 
Here is a picture with the bracket bent and the grommet moved further down the line. Compare this to the picture above.

20140310_161546.jpg
 
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