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best spot for wiring?

StratTuner

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Dear Friends,
The GMax GM54 helmet comes with a rear liight on the back of the helmet that can be synced (wirelessly) to the brake light.
Has anyone done this? Where is the best spot to tap into the brake light wiring?

(Yes, I could learn about how to do this from the manual and youtube... and NEVER post on this board at all... but the point of the post is to teach others about the helmet, the light, the brake/sync kit, and maybe have have someone (me) learn something).


Brake Light Video:
How To Pair The Gmax® Brake Light Kit - YouTube
[video=youtube;3-UsWg9DpSE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-UsWg9DpSE[/video]

Brake light sync/wireless kit:
GMAX LED Wireless Brake Light Kit for GM 54, 67, and 78 Helmets | 512-593 | J&P Cycles
utm_source=PLAs&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CKmZyYq-4bcCFU2CQgodzHUA6Q
 
:cool: Underneath the tail fender.... There is a single screw that holds a small rectangle panel cover. Remove it, and you expose the wiring connections for the brake light and rear turn signals... easiest place to get to... There is some space for extra electronics/wiring in there as well....
 
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:cool: Underneath the tail fender.... There is a single screw that holds a small rectangle panel cover. Remove it, and you expose the wiring connections for the brake light and rear turn signals... easiest place to get to... There is some space for extra electronics/wiring in there as well....

Very cool! I was hoping for a reply like that one! At $42 for the brake light kit (tax and shipping included), I went ahead and ordered. Thanks for the info. I will put it to good use.
 
Yes, there is one in flat black. (matte they call it).
Here's the LINK:
Mine was $127 from the linked seller.

I spent time calculating best size, and came up with:
actual 24.5 inches around my head measured above the eyebrow to the back.
24.5 converts to 62.2cm
so... I should order the XL (62, 63 cm), but the XXL (64,65 cm) was a better fit.
Your mileage may varry..
consult the GMAX Sizing chart carefully.

The built in sun visor, that sits behind the outer clear shield, is like heaven. I don't have to stop to add/remove snglasses.

The Modular design that lifts the entire front off your face, is very nice to work with. I can leave my helmet on when I gas up, and I can put on/take off this helmet without worrying about where my glasses are.

Frunk note: this helmet (XXL) fits in the Frunk, but only just barely! There can be nothing under it, and I turn it to the right (or left) after I put it in the normal way.... the Frunk will close normally that way, but only JUST.
 
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INteresting that an XXL fit in the Frunk... !!! then a large or medium should be nicely fitting... :)

My L size scorpion 400 does not even fit without crunching sounds... :/
 
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Im gonna get it....lol
....and the brake transmitter kit. because the helmet seems kind of pointless without it...lol

.. I have the Brake light wired in with easy quick connectors because of the "back-off" brake modulator already installed. I will just hook up the transmitter in series just before the "Back-off" modulator... Or maybe after the modulator so it modulates with the tailight... Oooooo I like that Idea BETTER !!! Helmet modulating with the taillight would be SIcK !!!
 
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Im gonna get it....lol
....and the brake transmitter kit. because the helmet seems kind of pointless without it...lol

.. I have the Brake light wired in with easy quick connectors because of the "back-off" brake modulator already installed. I will just hook up the transmitter in series just before the "Back-off" modulator... Or maybe after the modulator so it modulates with the tailight... Oooooo I like that Idea BETTER !!! Helmet modulating with the taillight would be SIcK !!!

Sounds like you're the man to talk to about wiring. Thanks for the replies!
 
INteresting that an XXL fit in the Frunk... !!! then a large or medium should be nicely fitting... :)

My L size scorpion 400 does not even fit without crunching sounds... :/

Just a heads up on GMax sizing. It's been a while since I had a Scorpion, but I'm pretty sure I wore a large. Current full face is a Large Shoei RF1000. In the GMax I take a Medium. Everyone's head shape is a little different so this may not apply to you.
You can also probably save a few bucks ordering from Jafrum. I think their price is $125 with free shipping.

Bob
 
Just a heads up on GMax sizing. It's been a while since I had a Scorpion, but I'm pretty sure I wore a large.
You can also probably save a few bucks ordering from Jafrum. I think their price is $125 with free shipping.

Bob

Thanks Bob!! And Strat !!

I just got it from Jafrum for $125 and the wireless kit from j&P for $43

I cant wait !! I have been wanting integrated Sun Glasses, and a Lighted helmet. Now both in one design... And the modular style is just gravy on the potatoes !!
 
I found a video on how to install the new light and transmitter. It seems to use some sort of crimping connectors. Looks pretty easy. I'm not sure how to identify the Positive (hot?) and the ground wire, but it will be an easy connect when I do.

I'm hoping the transmitter box will fit up in with the wiring behind that access panel Jay Fridays mentioned earlier.

Here's the video:
[video=youtube;EHle_QozFZM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHle_QozFZM[/video]
 
:cool: Underneath the tail fender.... There is a single screw that holds a small rectangle panel cover. Remove it, and you expose the wiring connections for the brake light and rear turn signals... easiest place to get to... There is some space for extra electronics/wiring in there as well....

Green is ground
Light Blue is Right Turn
Orange is Left Turn
Pink with Blue is Tail Light
Green with Yellow is Brake Light
 
I'd like to do this wiring so that it's reversable... or at least very clean.

The crimpers in the video will come with it, but I'd rather not use them.
I'm thinking about soldering on to the correct wires...if there is a place to do that.... Of course, soldering would leave bare soldered connections...the crimpers at least seal and cover the connection....maybe not such a bad idea.

Won't know that until I open it up and look!
 
I'd like to do this wiring so that it's reversable... or at least very clean.

The crimpers in the video will come with it, but I'd rather not use them.
I'm thinking about soldering on to the correct wires...if there is a place to do that.... Of course, soldering would leave bare soldered connections...the crimpers at least seal and cover the connection....maybe not such a bad idea.

Won't know that until I open it up and look!

There is not a lot of length on the wires, so I found it works best to disconnect the tail light harness and make the changes to the tail light end of things and then reconnect it. I would solder it or cut the two wires and use a Posilock connector. You could also use what are affectionately called "U-Haul connectors" and you won't have to break any wires. I don't normally like those, but since this is a circuit that won't "hurt" anything if it fails, that would be an acceptable approach.
 
Cut the wire and use bullet connectors. crimp them onto your wire and your set to connect/disconnect/add other items in-line. THat's what I have installed for my tailight mods. Although, it seems that this brakelight transmitter is hooked in parallel, not in series ( there are only two wires coming off the transmitter Pos/Grnd ) So you will need a push-in connector similar to this one also pictured.

I'd use 2 pieces of spare wire to insert into the block push-connector, with bullet connectors (one wire male,one wire female) on the other end of the spare wires.

Put a male and female bullet connector on 1) the wire from the battery 2) opposite bullet on the wire from the brakelight. now connect the block connector wires to the respective motorcycle wire leads. Insert the transmitter wire into the Block, Now you are in parallel.

Repeat this with the ground wire connection.

Now you can take this transmitter out, and reconnect the bullet connectors. No harm, no foul.

THere is quite a bit of length to play with for your terminals.. You just have to cut back the black wire-harness wrapping a bit....
---------

For spare wire, just get a couple feet of #14 or #16 stranded. use 4-5" sections for your spare wires. It's easy to push around and back into spaces, cheap and will fit these bullet connectors.

Bullet connectors are super cheap. Get the size "18-22 guage" from home depot in the electrical isle. You want them to be able to grip your tiny bike wire and not slip off...

99.jpg 98.jpg97.jpg
 
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Cut the wire and use bullet connectors. crimp them onto your wire and your set to connect/disconnect/add other items in-line. THat's what I have installed for my tailight mods

View attachment 5233 View attachment 5234

(As we say in California...) Dude! I'm printing the pictures you posted and taking them to the Home Depot so they will know what I need!

I presume the wire I cut will go in each end, and the wire going to the transmitter will go in as well , so
the connector will have two wires coming out of one side and one wire coming out of the other?
 
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