best spot for wiring?

[StratTuner]

Or Maybe something like THIS just because HomeDepot has it...

I suppose it doesn't matter so much as long as the connector:
1) securely connects three wire ends
2) insulates said connection from moisture and other electrical contacts

 

[Beemerphile]

Or Maybe something like THIS just because HomeDepot has it...

I suppose it doesn't matter so much as long as the connector:
1) securely connects three wire ends
2) insulates said connection from moisture and other electrical contacts

The style is fine, but the gauge is wrong. You want the red one. Blue at the largest, but use the smallest one that will fit the wires. I still prefer Posilocks which Home Depot may also carry.

 

[Jay Fridays]

Or Maybe something like THIS just because HomeDepot has it...

I suppose it doesn't matter so much as long as the connector:
1) securely connects three wire ends
2) insulates said connection from moisture and other electrical contacts

DON'T USE THOSE !!! once you crimp, you cannot take apart without cutting your wire shorter !!!
Everything I listed IS at Home Depot.

You will just 3 wires coming from the connector block: 1) "spare" wire connected with bullet to the wire from the battery 2) "spare" wire connected with bullets from the wire from the light 3) wire from the transmitter

As long as you use a female bullet on the wire from the battery, and a male bullet on the wire from the light, you can remove the transmitter and block-connector and plug the M/F ends from original wires back together.

 

[Jay Fridays]

You pictured a butt-splice crimp connector. THis is irreverable without cutting...

 

[Jay Fridays]

A CRUDE SCHEMATIC....




You would need one of these configurations for the positive, and one for the ground...

THE MALE / FEMALE Refers to the bullet type at each connection.

The "T" is the transmitter box
( If you couldn't tell )

After you make the connections, wrap the Block-connector with electrical tape.
Use size "18-22 gauge" block push-in connector. You want it very tight to make sure those wires do not slip out for any reason....

WIth this set-up, you can simply unplug the Transmitter kit, and plug the two original Green/Yellow wires back together without any cutting or making new connections... Just plug & play at this point

 

[StratTuner]

I found those connectors with the holes in the bottom like the last picture shows... one connected even had three holes for connecting three wire ends.
That makes sense to me. Cutting the ground wire creates two ends...adding the ground wire from the transmitter makes three ends to connect.
Same with the "live" wire.

I'm going to have to go back and re-read your last two posts MANY times. I don't understand them at all right now... least of all the word "spare".
None of the wires are "spare" they all do something...and are either ground or hot wires. Spare?
A "spare" tire is a tire you don't use but keep in the trunk of a car...until you need it. None of the wires are that.

I need to go back and re-read.

 

[StratTuner]

I still don't get it... but I'll keep struggling.

I found THIS for joining three wire ends together. That's what I'm doing... I'm pretty sure of that.


I realize that in reading the descriptions, they are describing what size wires the thing works with.
I've never worked with wire "sizes", so it's all new to me. Shoe sizes I understand.

I may just use a wire "nut" for this.
That's the only thing I've ever used for this kind of wiring.
You just have to try to find one that "fits" the three wires snugly... and twist.
(sometimes I pack the wire "nut" with silicone clear DAP after the wires are in... to keep out moisture.)


POSILOCKS may be found HERE!
They appear to connect two wires together, though I suppose you could just put two wire ends in one side.

 

[StratTuner]

A CRUDE SCHEMATIC....


View attachment 5250
THE MALE / FEMALE Refers to the bullet type at each connection.

Question: Why would you use both?

It seems like you would use the block connector or the bullet type... NOT BOTH.
unless you cut the existing wire in two places.... but why would you do that?

I think the solution will be to go to Home Depot and ask the clerk:
"What do I use to connect three wire ends together?"

 

[Jay Fridays]

There is no Spare wire included...

The "spare" wire refers to a 2 foot piece of stranded #16 or #18 gauge wire you buy from Home Depot and cut into a few short sections that I labeled "spare 1 & 2"

You use the bullet connectors and the connection block just like I described. This way you simply unplug it if you want it removed.
If you just plug the cut ends into the block connector, you will be forced to cut wires again later. The bullets make it a plug&play.

If something happened, you'd only cut the Spare wires you bought for a few pennies... The block alone will give you a headache later. Also, those blocks fail sometimes. This would make it very easy to replace the block only.

why you cut the wire:
You will see there are quick disconnects already on the brake and turn signals. in one cluster for Brake: green/green&yellow/Pink&yellow wires all going into a single white quick connect.

 

[Jay Fridays]

This is what it looks like when you see the tail light wires in under the fender. Three wires ( tail-light/brake-light/ground ) You are giong to want to cut the two wires (brake-light / ground from the stock quick-connect ( on both the light lide and the battery side) and add oppsite M/F bullets. Then attatch like I discribed in the last picture....

 

[Jay Fridays]

View attachment 5254

Using the "spare wire" you purchase with bullet connectors allows you to easily remove the system and plug the original wires back together....

You can plug the cut wires directly into the connectors, but you will have to cut them even shorter than they already if you have to remove it. Then you'd have to strip back further to add connectors anyway. You might as well add the bullets now and install as described

 

[Jay Fridays]

If you find the block connector ( C2 or C2 in diagram) with 3 or 4 holes, that's fine. It doesn't matter, just make sure the size is for "18-22 AWG"

 

[StratTuner]

one of the diagrams you posted (the one with the bullet connectors, spare wires, and block connector) isn't visible anymore.

I'm going to try to find the block and the bullet connectors, put them on the table top, and study them.
I'm afraid I still don't understand what you have in mind. Hopefully, having the pieces on the table top will help make that clearer.

I'm used to wiring diagrams that look like THIS: (tail lights seem strange)

 

[Spaceteach]

Brake light positive wire---------male connector. Female connector----------------
Brake light negative wire--------male connector. Female connector----------------

Brake light module + ------------------male
Female connector ----------------------connector

Brake light module ground ------------male
Female connector ----------------------connector

Why not just connect it like this?
1. Cut the positive and negative brake light wires, put a male connector on one end and a female on the other of each wire.
2. Run the positive lead of the transmitter to a male connector along with a short length of wire and crimp both wires into the same connector.
3. Crimp a female connector onto the other end of the short wire.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the negative transmitter wire.

FWIW, if I were doing this I'd just tap into the brake light wires with the Posi-Lock connectors that Beemerphile suggested. It's a lot easier to do it that way. Just Google Posi-Lock if you want to see how they work.

Bob

 

[Jay Fridays]

Ok... the OEM taillight wiring will look like this. 3 wires going into one "white colored" quick connect. You will cut where there are x's and place bullets. Male on one yellow, female on the other yellow. Male on one green, Female on the other green.





Now the transmitter: Put each transmitter wire into a separate block connector. Now add your two "spare" wires in each connector. Next, add a M and F bullet onto the ends of your newly added "spare" wires. After you do both transmitter wires it should look like this:



NEXT: connect the two Yellow/green cut wires from the bike ( as shown in diagram 1) , to the two yellow "spare" wires from the connector (diagram 2) . And connect the two cut green wires ( diagram 1) to the two green "spare" wires (Diagram 2)

When it's all connected, it should look like this:




Now, if needed, you can simply "unplug" your transmitter kit, and plug the original wiring back together (plug&play)

Bullets are cheap, easy to use, and available at home depot.... THey are very narrow, so they pass through and fit in tiny spaces.
THey also make a great plug & play situations available. I don't know about the Posi-locks, never used them. But, I am a commercial electrician, and these bullet terminals are awesome, in my opinion.

If you simply cut wires and add connectors, as suggested by spaceteach, and you do not use the "spare" wire i suggested, your wires will be too short to make the connections. And if you are barely able to get them together, you will be cursing yourself for not buying $0.85 worth of "spare" wire from Home Depot....

 

[Spaceteach]

Jay Fridays,
What is the purpose of C1 and C2 in your wiring? Wouldn't it be easier and less cluttered without them? In other words if you look at the green wire in the lower diagram, erase C1, and run the transmitter wire into the back of the female connector before you crimp it, you would end up with a green wire with a connector on one end and a connector and the transmitter wire on the other end. Does the same thing but with fewer connections.
It also seems that it would be simpler to just cut two wires. If you just cut the yellow and green wires in the top diagram on the tail light side of the factory connector and make your connections there you would be able to leave the bike side of the harness intact.

Just sayin
Bob

 

[Jay Fridays]

But what about the 3rd green wire from the brake light? And if you crimp all three together, it's not reversible without cutting... we're just making simple parallel connections here. In the Electrician's World, we call it a "pigtail". This is just looks a tad more elaborate because we want plug and play and reversible without cutting/splicing. So, we add the Bullets.

The c1 and c2 are just small wire connectors ( like a wire-nut ) You could just use a wire-nut and wrap it with electrical tape, if you wanted. But it would not look nearly as nice, and you'd still have to use the spare wire... It would look like a lot of wire-nutted spiderweb mess... and you wouldn't have the plug&play action of the insulated wire terminals.

It looks bulky on this spread out diagram, but it's very small in actuality.. I have stuff wired in the tail section already, and I know there is room for this still...

With my set-up, you can just "unplug" the connectors, and "plug" your original wiring back together in two-seconds.....
Male to Female... Boom-Boom...lol

 

[StratTuner]

Ok... the OEM taillight wiring will look like this. 3 wires going into one "white colored" quick connect. You will cut where there are x's and place bullets. Male on one yellow, female on the other yellow. Male on one green, Female on the other green.

View attachment 5265

Now the transmitter: Put each transmitter wire into a separate block connector. Now add your two "spare" wires in each connector. Next, add a M and F bullet onto the ends of your newly added "spare" wires. After you do both transmitter wires it should look like this:

View attachment 5266

NEXT: connect the two Yellow/green cut wires from the bike ( as shown in diagram 1) , to the two yellow "spare" wires from the connector (diagram 2) . And connect the two cut green wires ( diagram 1) to the two green "spare" wires (Diagram 2)

When it's all connected, it should look like this:

View attachment 5267


Now, if needed, you can simply "unplug" your transmitter kit, and plug the original wiring back together (plug&play)

Bullets are cheap, easy to use, and available at home depot.... THey are very narrow, so they pass through and fit in tiny spaces.
THey also make a great plug & play situations available. I don't know about the Posi-locks, never used them. But, I am a commercial electrician, and these bullet terminals are awesome, in my opinion.

If you simply cut wires and add connectors, as suggested by spaceteach, and you do not use the "spare" wire i suggested, your wires will be too short to make the connections. And if you are barely able to get them together, you will be cursing yourself for not buying $0.85 worth of "spare" wire from Home Depot....

OK... I think I got it.

Requirements:
1) make TRANSMITTER part of Brake Light circuit
(the light that comes one when applying the brake)
2) break into GREEN and GREEN/YELLOW wire
3) cut each wire ONLY ONCE
4) ensure reversability

I've put bullet connectors on the ORIGINAL wire I'm breaking in to so that I can just reconnect the original wire to itself should I ever want to remove the project.

The diagram shows only the GREEN wire because the process is identical for the GREEN/YELLOW.

Here's my diagram for the GREEN (ground) wire:



'Seems like it would work. 'Seem OK to you?

 

[Spaceteach]

I guess I'm not describing it correctly, but its just as reversible to cut the wire on the taillight side only. Look at your top diagram and think about cutting where you have the X marks. Lets say we cut the yellow wire where the X is located. If you put a male bullet on one end of the cut wire and a female on the other you can plug them back together whenever you want to re-establish your connection. Now take a short piece of you extra wire, the transmitter, and male and female bullet connectors. Take the wire from the transmitter that you want to connect to the yellow bike wire and put that along with one end of the short piece of extra wire onto the back of a bullet connector and crimp. Then crimp the other bullet connector onto the other end of the extra wire. Do the same thing for the Green wires. This way you don't need the blocks, the hook up is still reversible and you've only cut into one side of the factory harness.

Bob

 

[Spaceteach]

StratTuner,
Looking at your diagram, lets call the transmitter, 3 way, and m and f connectors an adapter. The easiest way to make the adapter is to put the transmitter wire and one end of a short piece of wire together and crimp the F connector onto them. Then crimp the M connector on to the other end of the short piece of wire and you have made the same adapter without having to use the 3 way. Either method will work, but the 3 way isn't really necessary.

Bob