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coolant change

Had dealer do mine when in for 24,000 mile service last week. Had brake fluid done too. Sorry but dealer didn't take any pics.

No pics and didn't save the old antifreeze and brake fluid so you could inspect it? What kind of dealer are you using?


I've drained and removed the radiator when doing the valve check so I just use new premix fluid to fill it back up.
 
What is the correct way to drain the coolant? On my last bike, there is a screw that I remove to drain the coolant. Does NC700X has the drain screw?
 
What is the correct way to drain the coolant? On my last bike, there is a screw that I remove to drain the coolant. Does NC700X has the drain screw?

The coolant drain plug is at the base of the cylinders below the exhaust outlet.

The Honda service manual is handy to have. It details the procedure and specs the coolant type. Do not use coolant containing silicates.
 
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The coolant drain plug is at the base of the cylinders below the exhaust outlet.

The Honda service manual is handy to have. It details the procedure and specs the coolant type. Do not use coolant containing silicates.

Thanks!

Would prestone from walmart do? The green one, not the orange dex-cool coolant.
 
Thanks!

Would prestone from walmart do? The green one, not the orange dex-cool coolant.

It might or might not. Look on the bottle for the words "Silicate Free", "Contains No Silicates", or check the ingredients list.

The Prestone Extended Life I have purchased in the past was silicate free.
 
just buy any good quality coolant and mix 50/50 with demineralized water. There are some videos on youtube about it.
 
just buy any good quality coolant and mix 50/50 with demineralized water. There are some videos on youtube about it.

That is wrong. Do not buy just "any good quality coolant". That is, unless you want to be replacing your water pump someday.

The Honda service manual for the NC700X/XD specifies "high quality ethylene glycol antifreeze containing silicate-free corrosion inhibitors" mixed 1:1 with distilled water.
 
I use only Honda fluids for all my Honda products. Even at 24K miles there is no recommendation to change the coolant.
If the coolant looks clean (no rust) a hydrometer check can allow coolant to run for years in a Honda engine.
My Accord has a code 5 for coolant change. My guess it will not appear until past 50K or longer......but I could be wrong.

At any rate, Honda coolant can run way past the recommended 12K miles/2 year mark for brake fluid, whose enemy is corrosion caused by moisture in the fluid.
 
I use only Honda fluids for all my Honda products. Even at 24K miles there is no recommendation to change the coolant.
If the coolant looks clean (no rust) a hydrometer check can allow coolant to run for years in a Honda engine.
My Accord has a code 5 for coolant change. My guess it will not appear until past 50K or longer......but I could be wrong.

At any rate, Honda coolant can run way past the recommended 12K miles/2 year mark for brake fluid, whose enemy is corrosion caused by moisture in the fluid.

I don't disagree with you at all, ST13Fred.

Although there was no mention of engine oil here (and I apologize for bringing it up :eek:), your post reminds me again how most people are totally agreeable to the manufacturer's change interval recommendation for coolant, and even for brake fluid, but they commonly refuse to believe that oil can last 8000 miles.

Specific to the NC700, as bamamate mentioned above, you will probably lose half your coolant when you do a valve clearance check, then you'll be topping off with new coolant anyway.
 
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I use only Honda fluids for all my Honda products. Even at 24K miles there is no recommendation to change the coolant.
If the coolant looks clean (no rust) a hydrometer check can allow coolant to run for years in a Honda engine.
My Accord has a code 5 for coolant change. My guess it will not appear until past 50K or longer......but I could be wrong.

At any rate, Honda coolant can run way past the recommended 12K miles/2 year mark for brake fluid, whose enemy is corrosion caused by moisture in the fluid.
My NC700X owners and service manuals had a recommended coolant change at 24,000 miles or 2 years if I'm not mistaken. There would never be any rust showing in the coolant because the block and cylinder head are aluminum and don't rust but they will corrode.

Car engines and motorcycle engines operate under differing operating conditions hence differing service intervals between them. Coolant has an additive package of glycols, lubricants, and surfectants that break down over time. Car engines turn slower rpms and have larger passages in the pump and coolant jacket both of which place less stress on the additives.
 
My NC700X owners and service manuals had a recommended coolant change at 24,000 miles or 2 years if I'm not mistaken. There would never be any rust showing in the coolant because the block and cylinder head are aluminum and don't rust but they will corrode.

Changed mine last week. Easy, low cost, why push it beyond recommendations.
 
Although there was no mention of engine oil here (and I apologize for bringing it up :eek:), your post reminds me again how most people are totally agreeable to the manufacturer's change interval recommendation for coolant, and even for brake fluid, but they commonly refuse to believe that oil can last 8000 miles.

I find that people's tendencies to agree with recommendations are somewhat proportionate to the perceived difficulty or comfort level of performing the task. ;)
 
Hi greg and everybody,

the good coolants are always ethilene glycol and silicate-free corrosion inhibitors...a bike is not a rocket, honda fluids are also made by good quality well known brands. Lets assume that the honda fluid costs about 20 bucks a bottle. The mix of water and good quality coolant will be less expensive and as good as the "original" one, its a matter of the size of your pocket. The videos on youtube show the right procedure of how to drain the fluid and refil the new one. A good purchase is the honda service manual, i paid about 20 dollars.

One more thing, if someone plan to change the coolant liquid in short intervals, lets say, every year or every 10.000 km, it can be used the 50/50 mix of coolant and regular water, with no damages whatsoever.
 
This is turning into an oil thread. The idea that changing the coolant every 10000KM is flawed. It's the new stuff in the coolant that causes the problems. The most likely problem is silicates and borate reacting with the water pump seal. This is KNOWN issue and easily prevented by choosing the right coolant. You MUST READ the labels very closely if it does not say SILICATE AND BORATE free it most likely not free of those problem ingredients. It really is that simple.

DSCN1856.jpgDSCN1857.jpg
 
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Thanks man! Coolant change done!! Good for another 2years/24k

Take 1/4-1/3 gallon just FYI

I haven't the mileage to need to do mine, so I don't know for sure, but if there was a copper washer on that drain bolt (there should be, all of my other bikes have them) and you didn't put a new one on, keep a vague eye on it from time to time, just to make sure it isn't weeping.

99 times out of 100, it will be perfectly fine and it can probably be reused for lots of changes, but since it is a crush washer, there is always the slight chance of it not sealing optimally once used. It's maybe a bit of a nitpicky thing, but I figure I'd at least mention it. :)
 
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